I got a good trade-in deal at a local store, so I picked up a Paramilitary.
It has the same just-barely-works lock issue I have seen other people describe. The liner piece only just barely gets in the locked position. In fact, and it was hard to tell for sure from the outside, I think the liner might not have even been fully within the "strike zone" of the blade. I also noticed the blade didn't quite open all the way. If the blade would open further to it's obvious intended position (only a tiny bit off), the lock would also move closer to the center position.
The area where the back of the tang hits the stop pin looked like it was just finished off the same as the rest of the blade, maybe even less accurately, but this is a critical area for the lock to work just right. Would it help if the back end of the tang were left just a hair too long, and a seperate grinding step with a small bit were added to make that contact point with the stop pin EXACTLY how it should be?
It has the same just-barely-works lock issue I have seen other people describe. The liner piece only just barely gets in the locked position. In fact, and it was hard to tell for sure from the outside, I think the liner might not have even been fully within the "strike zone" of the blade. I also noticed the blade didn't quite open all the way. If the blade would open further to it's obvious intended position (only a tiny bit off), the lock would also move closer to the center position.
The area where the back of the tang hits the stop pin looked like it was just finished off the same as the rest of the blade, maybe even less accurately, but this is a critical area for the lock to work just right. Would it help if the back end of the tang were left just a hair too long, and a seperate grinding step with a small bit were added to make that contact point with the stop pin EXACTLY how it should be?
