planning any in m2 steel?

L

leroys_45

Joined
Oct 26, 1999
Messages
626
i just got my first knife in m2 steel. i sharpened it amazingly sharp in about 5 minutes. and from what i hear, it holds the edge a long time. any plans for this stuff or is it considered too high maintainance since it's carbon steel rather than stainless.

anyone else like to see spydies with m2 steel?
 
Sure, I'd like to see it. BM can't seem to do it in anything except fixed blades and liner-locks. Not that there's anything wrong with fixed blades; my M2 Nimravus Cub is awesome, and an easy daily carry.

But, Spyderco has their 440V, which works just as well, pretty much. Different approaches.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
So many steels, so little time.

No plans for M2 at this time. Others tested better.
 
sal, i'll trust your opinion. just out of curiosity, which steels tested better? i've never found a good steel that was easier to sharpen.
 
OBTW, forgot to include in my post above... I, too, am quite impressed with M2, and don't mind the little extra care at all. It get's wicked sharp extremely easily!

Right now, the jury's still out on which one I like best, the 440V in my Military, or the M2 in my Nimravus Cub.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
I also am very impressed with the M2 steel used in the AFCK and Stryker. On the minus side, it will corrode easier that the 440v, but it is in my opinion easier to get a super sharp edge. I have been able to get a comparable edge with the VG-10 steel. I really like the VG-10 and think that it is as good as the M2.

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Dale Richmond
AKTI Number A000949
 
I will wait to see how Camillus does with the Quest before I start begging for a Spyderco in Talonite.

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AKTI Member No. A000370
 
Now there's a thing to dream for: a Military in Talonite. Naw, a StarMate in Talonite, now that might just be perfection! Sal, might we see one?

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Walk in the Light,
Hugh Fuller
 
Yep, VG-10 is fast becoming one of my favorites too. I have a Caly. JR> ltwt, and am becoming very happy with the VG-10.
 
M2 is a very good steel. so is D2. But our testing indicates that we can get equal or better edge retention and better corrosion resistance as well in some of the exotic stainless steels like CPMs, VG-10, BG-42, etc. Most of our knives are used (workin' pieces) and those ELU prefer not to have to "be careful" or use extra maintenance when they don't have to.

Regarding Talonite, I'm sure w'll play with in and make something in the future.

sal
 
Hey Sal, again, don't get me wrong. I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing offerings by Spyderco in BG-42, and more offerings in VG-10.

Thanks for continuing to pursue the highest standard.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
Is toughness a criterion? My understanding is that the CPM440V is a bit brittle and might chip. For a long-term field knife one might need to hack up some things, take some lateral stress, etc. How does the VG10 hold up under such abuse?
By the way, I know that the military is known to have hacked off thin tree branches, but I might worry about that more with 440V than with a more "springy" steel.
 
Ive seen most all production metals an I think M2 has the best edgeholding properties of any. What M2 doesnt have that makes it undesirible to spyderco is ANY corrosion resistance. M2 has no resistance at all, so unless you are classified to field strip the knife for cleaning, M2 blades must be teflon or likewise coated. Spyderco has never, to my knowledge, carried a teflon coated blade design and they dont appear to be interested in doing so. This keeps cost down and the knives probably look better overall. From what I hear from an armorer of mine, talonite is comparable to M2, but much more expensive and much harder to work with and sharpen in the field. For now, IMHO, M2 is the best high performance steel if you dont mind taking good care of your tools and 440V is a great choice for people who want workers to which they dont have to pay much attention. I think 440V is a VERY intelligent choice for spyderco, and I encourage them to pair it up with liner locks in their new models (and maybe upgrade the civilian too!).
 
thePrince, good job. I could not have said it better myself. Although I don't have the experience you appear to with all the metals, I have had extremely good experience with M2. Right now, I'm carrying a stripped M2 Nimravus Cub. So far, with just the lightest coating of olive oil on it, it hasn't corroded, rusted, or tarnished a bit. Time will tell, but if it doesn't get any worse.... then I think I have another winner in my stable.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
Rock, even though we dont have any oceans nearby, here in MT we use olive oil on our katanas and it works extremely well to prevent corrosion. Its an epic pain sometimes though on a tiny blade, so look into Sentry Solutions Tough Cloth. The stuff owns on small blades for corrosion resistance and increased lubrication. Er, NO our katanas are not made of M2, but they aint made of stainless either.

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-thePrince
 
I'll keep the Tuf Cloth in mind, thePrince. For now, I'd like to see how the olive oil does, since I do occasionally use the Cub to cut food.
smile.gif


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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
Actually we talked about that in BM's forum and a sentry solutions guy came in and told us that iif u rub your stuff down with the cloth then let it dry, then wipe it with a clean cloth its very safe to eat with and will retain the protective layer because it bonds with the bare metal.

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-thePrince
 
Negative Prince. I replied in one of those recent threads. And the rep never actually stated that it was "safe" to use on foods after wiping it clean with a cloth. He did say that none of their products were FDA approved and that they have not heard of any incident(s) where anyone was adversely affected with the use of their products along with edibles. Just thought this needed to be cleared up.

 
Hmmm... I guess, unless I start having problems with just using olive oil, I'll stick with that. So far, even a small amount (barely enough to even tell it is there when you run your finger across it) has seemed to work. It's been bare for about 3 weeks, without even a tarnish.
Thanks for the info.

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"Absolute safety is for those who don't have the balls to live in the real world."
 
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