plate quenching and blade warp

johnnym

johnnym

Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Messages
170
I recently started trying to use plate quenching for D2. The technique that i am using is to take the blades in the package right out of the kiln, place them on a large aluminum plate and as quickly as possible put the other aluminum plate on top. I then add about 90 more pounds of steel on top and then blow compressed air between the aluminum plates. The problem that i see is that my blades are warping. I never had much of a warping issue when i just air quenched them. I am suspecting that the time they spend on the bottom plate before i can get the top plate on is causing the problem. Does anyone else use this method? Any suggestions on what i can do to prevent this?

-John
 
I use plate quenching and the only blades I've had warp were long skinny thin fillet blades - and they warped before they even hit the plates.

I would estimate that it takes me about four seconds from kiln to bottom plate (per blade - probably 4 blades max) and then another five seconds to get the top plate on. IT probably takes another ten seconds to get the clamps tightened down snug. Warping is not a problem.

Be sure to put the blades / envelopes down spine first and then gently lay them on side.

Rob!
 
John -

you could be bending them by the excessive weight and/or
wobbling. there's no little reason to go through the 90lb weight
and the compressed air.

D2/A2 were designed to be cooled in still air. Al plates accelerate that process N-fold, and that's plenty fast.

How thick are the blades ? I assume you buy D2 as ground bars from a
reputable source ? As such, they'd be stress free and properly annealed.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I will avoid putting the extra weight on them and try again. The blade thickness is .125, i got the d2 steel from flatground.com as PG annealed stock.
 
Flatground is top notch and 1/8 is plenty thick not to warp too easily.
When you put the top plate on, resist the temptation to push it down
with your hand or stand on it :)

Don't ask me how I know :)
 
JH never did explain how to get 100% blade contact with that setup beings the plates look to be parallel with no adjustment for angle to account for the bevel.:confused:
 
You don't need 100% blade contact. The plates suck heat out so fast, the whole thing cools way faster than it would in still or forced air.

Rob!
 
After I mounted the plates I closed it to check the contact. I ended up putting a washer to two under the inside edge on each side to get it to close flush. I haven't had any warpage using this set up!
-John
 
I use an arbor press to press mine down once together and do not have a problem with warping

I started using the plates some time back when Rene Roy mentioned he used plates, he would stand on the the plates , so 90 pounds is not to much weight IMO.
I blow air in also , you may not need to do this, but it's the way I've been doing it,, just my 2 cents :)
 
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