proud springs on a Case

[Absintheur]

I have a Case 6216 1/2 that was included with a deal when I bought a lot of knives. It was not the primary knife I wanted and the price was low enough that even to I suspect it was not authentic the rest of the lot was worth what I paid. The stamp on the back of the blade is suspect as well as the spring fit but they are CV blades and this will be a user so I would like the springs flush. The springs on both blades are flush when open btw.

The spring for the main is about twice as high as the spring for the pen blade, would removing a small amount of material from the kick solve this? There is plenty of kick there. I really do like this size knife but the springs just bug the heck out of me.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z271/reloader1959
/casespring4.jpg

here is a pic of the suspect model stamp...the 16 pattern number matches what the knife but I still think the blade may not be original, hence the high spring.

 

[knifeaholic]

That knife is authentic. Nothing looks even remotely amiss. Most Case pattern number stamps from XX through the mid 70's looked ragged like that.

I do not know what to tell you about the spring problem.

 

[ken erickson]

I really doubt removing material from the kick will be enough to solve the problem. If you did remove enough , for sure the blade will hit the backspring either at the tip or the center. Material has to be removed both from the kick and the area of the tang were it starts to radius. Which would require taking the blades out of the frame. From the picture it looks as if this knife has half-stops? If so, how are the spring heights when at half-stop?

Ken

 

[338375]

That would bug me too, but its still a great looking knife...

 

[Absintheur]

From the picture it looks as if this knife has half-stops? If so, how are the spring heights when at half-stop?

Ken

Has great half stops but the spring is as proud at the half as it is at the rest. Only time it is sitting proper is when the knife is open. As a matter of fact the fit at full open is near perfect.

 

[ken erickson]

Thanks for the follow up. I think the only way to correct the knife would be to take it apart. Unfortunately.

Ken

 

[midnight flyer]

Thanks for the follow up. I think the only way to correct the knife would be to take it apart. Unfortunately.

Ken

YIKES!

I have seen a good video taking apart a pocket knife on another site. Not for the weak or inexperienced.

Probably still a good beater, one you wouldn't be ashamed to pull out of your pocket.

Robert

 

[navihawk]

If you squeeze the blades down while the knife is closed you can see how much you can take off the kicks without the blades hitting the springs. If your just going to use it you could make it a little better. You might have to put a nail notch in the liner and scale to grab the pen blade. Sounds like a fun project. If it works out the knife would probably end up as one of your favorites.

 

[neeman]

If it works out the knife would probably end up as one of your favorites.

funny how fiddling with a knife makes it more yours.......

a fine looking knife

 

[Steve_Holt]

YIKES!

I have seen a good video taking apart a pocket knife on another site. Not for the weak or inexperienced.

Probably still a good beater, one you wouldn't be ashamed to pull out of your pocket.

Robert

Any chance of a link?

I've taken a few apart, but would love to see how somebody that knows what they're doing does it.

 

[SusAntigoon]

I'd be interested in that too!

 

[KnifeHead]

Thanks for the follow up. I think the only way to correct the knife would be to take it apart. Unfortunately.

Ken

Good advice from Ken. Both the back square and kick are going to have to be diddled to make this knife right but it's doable. I haven't seen thousands of Case knives from that era but it seems odd that the position of the springs is that bad. It's good that it's flush at open and, to me, is a good indication that the knife is authentic but just made bad.

 

[midnight flyer]

Any chance of a link?

I've taken a few apart, but would love to see how somebody that knows what they're doing does it.

It will sure make you appreciate what the guys that make pocket knives by hand actually do.

I don't want to directly link without permission, so here's the site with instructions:

http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/index.php

Go down about 3/4 of the page, and see "Knife Creation, Modification and Restoration Forums."

Click on the first sub heading, "Knife Related Tutorials", and there is a gold mine of information.

Back on the main page fo Knife Creation, etc., there are other topics that have a lot of good information as well.

Robert

 

[kc custom]

I'm with Ken E., and Kerry, if the tangs are right the knife will be right, that means
all three positions on both blades or any combination of positions open, half stop.
or closed.
Ken.

 

[256newton]

Will Case fix improperly made knives? I have a stockman, damascus and stag, which was never finished properly. Always wondered if something could be done about it, but never followed through on it.

 

[SusAntigoon]

It will sure make you appreciate what the guys that make pocket knives by hand actually do.

I don't want to directly link without permission, so here's the site with instructions:

http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_forum/index.php

Go down about 3/4 of the page, and see "Knife Creation, Modification and Restoration Forums."

Click on the first sub heading, "Knife Related Tutorials", and there is a gold mine of information.

Back on the main page fo Knife Creation, etc., there are other topics that have a lot of good information as well.

Robert

Took a quick look and there sure is a lot of info there. Nice reading material for later.
Thx midnight!

 

[Absintheur]

Well...I won't be taking it apart, that is for sure. I can depress the main a good bit against the spring in the closed position, so there is plenty of kick on the blade. I am almost wondering if this step in the finally fitting was missed considering how high the kick is.

 

[navihawk]

Well...I won't be taking it apart, that is for sure. I can depress the main a good bit against the spring in the closed position, so there is plenty of kick on the blade. I am almost wondering if this step in the finally fitting was missed considering how high the kick is.

Looks like that might be the case. Wouldn't hurt to take a small diamond file to it. I used my Waves diamond file to make some swedges in a blade. Kind of finished it off, and definately made it feel more mine.