Question about changing handle scale Pics added 10/11

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TimWilson

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Probably a stupid question, but if I were to take the screws out so that I could remove the G10 scale, is the knife going to fall apart on me? Or are there any special tricks to assembly/disassembly?

I've already made a belt sheath for my new 3", but I would also like to try to make a maple handle scale from some wood from one of my trees, and don't want to make any dumb@$$ mistakes in taking my knife apart.

I'll post pics' if I ever get the camera back from SWMBO!!
 
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Yes, there is a technique to it, but it is simple. I'm away from my comp now, but I've got some pics I can share to help the knife from springing apart.
 
Forgot I could do this from my phone. This pic should help, but open the blade to 90 degrees:

Scale.jpg
 
You will have to take the pivot screw out as well as obviously the grip screws.
Like Rico said, its better to open the blade 90 degree for the pivot screw.
Don't be afraid, if knife falls apart, its not a biggie :)

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It gives you the opportunity to clean it up, if needed (depending on your use).
You then put it back together

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Then tighten it back with the blade half open, then close it, then adjust the center of the blade and tighten the scale screws.

And it will be perfect :)

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Very cool pics, now I am ready and feel safe to take mine apart to change the scale and clean my baby.
 
Excellent pics/description! I just ordered a blue scale for my 3in Flipper, I'll be using this thread for guidance.

:thumbup:much appreciated,

-Mayo
 
Nice pics as usual Gress! I'm back to my computer today, but it looks like there is enough info now to help with the scale change. This is usually how I will do mine:

I remove the pocket clip so that my knife will sit flat. I usually use a mouse pad or gun cleaning pad for my cleaning/changing surface.

I mask the blade with tape to prevent cuts/scratches. This isn't really necessary, but I do it any ways.

I'll start to loosen the pivot with the blade closed. Once the pivot has started to loosen and before the blade touches the liner, I'll put the knife down and open the blade to a 90 degree angle. There might be blue loc-tite on the pivot so it might be a little difficult to remove the pivot screw and may take some effort. I've had some hard to remove until the last thread clears.

Next, I'll loosen the frame screws so that they are not tight, but still hold the knife together.

Remove the pivot screw and the first two frame screws. I leave the last frame screw attached so I can slide the scale off while holding the liner with my finger to prevent the knife from springing apart.

While I'm holding the liner down and knife together, I'll remove the final frame screw and remove the scale.

Place the new scale on and put the bottom frame screw in. Then slide the scale onto the knife while it pivots on the bottom screw. Put the other two frame screws on. At this time, I don't tighten them all the way. I just snug them up to keep the knife together.

Tighten the pivot so that the blade is centered. Tighten the frame screws from the bottom up.

If the blade is too snug or not centered, loosen the pivot slightly and tighten to your preference. A small turn on the pivot goes a long way.

Hopefully these instructions will be of use. :)
 
TimWilson said:
... try to make a maple handle scale from some wood from one of my trees...
Click to expand...

THAT didn't work too well!

Had a beautiful scale made out of spalted maple and the lack of material between the lanyard hole and the two handle screws allowed that whole piece to crack off as soon as I tightened everything down. There went 3 hours work down the drain:grumpy:. Oh, well, back to the drawing board.:rolleyes:
 
Tim,
Sorry to hear that. I am very interested to see the new maple scales. Don't drop the idea please :)
 
SUCCESS!!! I haven't added the notches yet to line up with the frame, I need to get a different bit for my dremel tool. I should also thin down the front side a little more. It is close to proper thickness, but is just a bit thick to fit the sheath without stretching it.

No pictures yet, wife still has camera at work.

Also, don't have it mounted ATM, as I broke one of the handle screws and am waiting to hear back on ordering a couple of spares.
 
All right, very NICE!
Post couple more! Want to see the thickness and how it looks with Ti liner.
Great work!
 
Quick question - I'm not sure I understand totally: Do you need any special tools (i.e., the spanner tool) in order to loosen the pivot and change the scale?

Rico801: your instructions seem great. Gives me more confidence to try this. I gotta have the Orange scale!
 
To Do It Properly You Need The Hinderer Armorer Tool Or a #12 Spanner Bit In 1/4 Drive. The Armorer Tool Is Back-Ordered I Just Talked To Hinderer Knives Today They Said About 2 Weeks & They Will Be In. You Can Pick-Up A Spanner Bit For About $2.25 (Ace Hardware, Lowe's, Menards, Home Depot).
That Will Get You By, But I Prefer The Armorer's Tool Because So Neat.

orig.jpg
 
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