Quick question: gun oil

good i was wonderin the same please
i searched the faqs for gunoil, oil,but only got oil for doin handles on khuks ect.????:)
 
yes, it will protect khuk. No, it will not promote rust.

But, it is a lubricant, not designed for long-term protection, so if it is to be used on something that will be repeatedly subject to friction, it needs to be reapplied. It also fades.

If you need a gun-related product for storing your khuk...try gun grease...it is just that: grease. But, it serves as a barrier against rust, and humidity.

I'm sure the cantina members have many other more appropriate protective coatings to suggest.


Kis
:rolleyes:
 
Please let an old man make a suggestion here. I have used nothing more than 30W motor oil or vasiline to prevent rust.

The only other way that I know of to completely prevent rust is to Clean, dry, and paint the knife with laquer or crazy glue. I prefer the oil/vasiline as it is easier to reaply. 3 in one oil is like the gun oil. A fairly good lube but not heavy enough to really protect for very long.
I tryed Sarge's idea on my BAS and it seems to stay on there pretty well. Chap Stick If you want to store that Khuk for a while I would paint the balde and that spot of steel on the end of the handle with liquid bees was. I've had to do that with a few guns while over seas. Melt the was and paint it on with a through away paint brush.

Just my .02. :)
 
Ive used a bunch of stuff over the years on knives. Right now on a couple khuks Ive designated as non-user Im using car wax. So far 2 months later still shiny. Then again I have a variety of different style of weapons, and wax just doesnt seem to be best for everything (ie. blades that are in transition for work, or heavily textured blades). So I do use baby oil, which is a light mineral oil. I used it for years with no problems, then I fell into the hype and used that fancy choji oil, then plain mineral oil, and well on a cost to effect ratio Ive decided to go back to baby oil. Its good for horn as well, which is another factor in the decision, plus it smells nice. If I could afford jasmine oil is nice, but at $10 for a little bottle its a little to impractical for me. Then again for user knives I tend not to use anything. I like a well worn patina look anyways on work knives. However the biggest thing thatll affect care is humidity. Its not as hard to regulate as may be thought. Cool air holds less moisture than hot, and small de-humidifiers and humidifiers (or even a bowl of water) are relatively inexpensive. Keeping something in a chest even can help regulate environment. As for other products Ive used, sowing machine oil ranks high, the Singer brand, as well as Super Lube 3 in 1. WD-40 doesnt last long, but will work if continuously re-applied. Then again like I said environment plays a strong role in ease of care, as well as vigilence. Take care of small problems before they become big.
 
I saw a bottle of military surplus weapons oil. It said on the bottle to keep away from anything that will go near food.

I use car wax or mineral oil. :o Both are more or less non toxic (depending on what car wax). I think mineral oil is a laxative in larger doses.
 
i think khuks might be laxitives to.
every time i buy a new one my wife gets the shits hheeee:)
i hope she dont read this:rolleyes:
i will also try the wax tratment on one of my other khuks,and the baby oil on the penknife when it arrives. then see which ones do the best overall ??:confused:
 
It comes in aerosol can. Use it onl khuks, swords, and my Foosball table.

Keith
EN Ferro Veritas
 
The only problem with petroleum based products is that they will leave a residue and permanently darken the blade over time. If you want it to stay nice and shiny go with something like baby oil (can be messy) for the short term, and wax for long term storage.

n2s
 
Originally posted by Ferrous Wheel
It comes in aerosol can. Use it onl khuks, swords, and my Foosball table.

Keith
EN Ferro Veritas
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I've had good luck with the Silicone as well. Some of my non-users has kept very well with it.
My users get a coat of Ballistol-Lube once in a great while.
I don't have much trouble with my knive's rusting, but wouldn't you know it out of all of them I've had no problems with the HI Kothimoda has developed a bit of Black Rust right on the point on one side.:confused: :rolleyes: :grumpy:
I don't mind the black rust so much because once it forms the steel seems to stop corroding unlike the nasty orange rust that eats away at steel until it's all gone.

I was pretty astounded when I found out that oxidization was fire and that steel under oxidization was actually burning. Too bad the fire can't be put out with water.:D
 
I was pretty astounded when I found out that oxidization was fire and that steel under oxidization was actually burning. Too bad the fire can't be put out with water.
Click to expand...

LOL!

For a graphic demonstration, try lighting up a SMALL bit of superfine steel wool. Really fine iron powders, if the surface is not dirty or coated with oxide will spontaneously catch fire with great violence when exposed to air. Fortunately, such powders take a bit of trouble to produce; they are made by reducing solutions of compounds like iron salts in the absence of oxygen. Similar to recovering silver from used darkroom solutions.

Otherwise, grinding a blade could get unpleasantly exciting.
 
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