RC-5 questions

S

Stainz

Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
3,760
First, what a great knife!

Now... where exactly was it made? Are they actually made here in Alabama??

What does 'R O W E N' on the blade stand for?

What do you do for a fire steel striker? I know, carry a Bic or Zippo. Seriously, I can't see 'striking' the blade.

Anyone convex their edge yet? How do you like it that way?

Thanks for your patience - and time. My first 'RAT'.

Stainz
 
Congrats, Stainz. :cool:

Rowen is in Idaho, I think.

If you're worried about striking with the RC-5's sharpened edge, you can use the rearmost section (closest to the handle). You also can do what I did to my RC-4 -- using a triangular file, remove the Ziebart from the jigged section of the spine and strike with that.

It works fine with an LMF "Swedish Army" firesteel. I can't say if it'd spark the RAT steel, which I've read (here) is a bit tougher.

IMG_0152aa.jpg
 
I've got the Swedish Firesteel myself, and that one has a striker attached to it.

Never strike the firesteel with your cutting edge, if possible strike it with the topside of the blade ;)
 
Well, there is a Rowen Manufacturing in Idaho Falls, ID (Hmmm - Buck Knives is in Post Falls, ID...). I was just 'hoping' we had another claim here in Alabama for knife-making, other than Bear MGC in Jacksonville, AL.

I thought about removing the finish from the thumb notches - it takes a file?

It does fit the sheath well - I just hate to remove the un-necessary, for me, material. Also, all of the belt loop located surfaces have Velcro applied - kind of tough on a leather belt. The leather sheaths my Barkies wear, mostly Sharpshooters, are great. I expect they would run $60-$75 up if made in the RC-5 size. I'll get used to the 'freebie' that came with it. Anyone else think that leg strap might be a tad tight, or is it my thunder thighs?? Thanks, again!

I love that knife! A Busse-aficionado-friend actually liked it, too.

Stainz
 
Stainz said:
I thought about removing the finish from the thumb notches - it takes a file?
Click to expand...

That's what I did, anyway.

I used two triangular files -- a .250 to remove most of the coating and a needle to finish up. The goal isn't to make bumps into points, just to turn black into silver. ;)

By the way, the sharper the (uncoated) spine, the better it'll strike. Not blade-edge sharp, but 90-degree-corner sharp.
 
I use the striker that came with my firesteel. My friend machined a brass fitting which I will inlet into the left scale as a bowdrill divot. The 5 is on terrific knife that will do whatever you ask of it.
 
As for striking the RAT firesteel, Texas Tony recommends getting a Buck Hartsook and using it as a dedicated striker. They can be had for around 20 dollars I think. I don't have a RAT firesteel, and thus can't say for certain, but I imagine a small jigsaw blade would work well too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top