Re-Profile Ax

Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
300
I just got a Collins camp ax at the local hardware store for a project ax. I managed to get the nasty black paint off and all the stupid labels on the handle are sanded off as well.

I edge could not be duller. I have been attacking it will a file and a stone.

What is the best way to get a decent profile on the ax so I can get it sharp?

Thanks
 
I do all the re-profiling with a 14" mill bastard file and get the final edge with the stone.
 
i use a bench sander. also files and emery cloth.
depends on what type edge you like. secondary bevel or convex??
is your Collins made in MexicO???
go to Old Jimbo on the web. he has some great tute's about re-profiling axes.
all good
buzz
 
with really bad axes i do the following, even though in every peice of written info out there, it is strongly advised against:

i start with a coarse stone on the bench grinder. this is solely for getting rid of the metal. i keep my fingers right behind the edge, and dunk and swish in cool water very frequently. i to this for thinning the edge down, since most axes are far thicker than i want them to be.

after the heavy grinding (depending on what kind of finish i am going for) i will take it to a coarse belt on my 1x30 belt sander, around a 40 or 60 grit. i smooth out and flatten up the heavy grinding marks, and make sure everything is still straight.

i then set up a convex edge bevel, sometimes one smooth bevel about 1" wide or more, something like a full convex. sometimes a flatter edge with a small, knife-sized convex bevel. depends on my mood.

my first couple of axes were modern collins, and i found that they cut with a good file pretty well. i suggest a large (the larger the better...i have a 14" sitting in reserve) single cut bastard file for the heavy removal. attach a handle and some sort of guard (sheet of brass, aluminum, wood, leather, etc) to help reduce the chance for injury when filing towards the edge. also always wear heavy gloves for the same reason. once the edge is really nice and even, and you have a burr along the whole thing, then take it to the stone to polish it up. then i took them to some coarse grit sandpaper backed with a mousepad, and polished it up to about 1200 grit for a crazy sharp edge.

check out this site:
http://blueandwhitecrew.org/resources/tips/sharpeningaxes.php

it's a little bit more in-depth than i usually go, but its alot of good info.
 
Thanks guys. I saw the Collins axe at my local True Value for 14.00 and I figured I would take a chance. I was looking for a project axe and something with a longer handle to compliment my Gerber with the 8 inch handle.

Sadly, it is made in Mexico. The blade could not be duller (this was hidden by a rubber-like edge protector). The head was covered in thick black paint and the handle had labels on both sides, including a stick-on warning label.

I have sanded off all the nasty paint. The metal underneath is pitted and the finish is poor quality, hence the black paint. I am either going to use mustard for a patina or my wife, a ceramic artist, is going to help me with some metal oxide, either copper or iron. This should compliment the pitted surface. I am going for an antiqued look.

The labels on the handles came off easily with sandpaper. Some of the labels hid some cosmetic defects in the handle. I'll use linseed oil on it.

I got a coarse mill file with an aggressive cut. I am getting the edge ground down. It seems like it is decent metal, just not finished out very well. I am new to this and really do not understand the different types of edge profiles. What are the advantages and disadvantages of convex v. secondary bevel?

I want to get it sharp, a patina on the head and linseed oild the handle. Then.....

....Zombies beware!
 
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