- Joined
- Jan 9, 2014
- Messages
- 527
Hello fellow makers!
Here is the easy split-eyelet removal method some of you were asking about. I hope it helps!
I've had some problems with bad batches of brass kydex eyelets in the last year. There has been one positive result of this; I've developed a very quick and easy way to remove split eyelets. Until I started doing it this way I tried a few other methods including try to cut off the rolled side which were tedious, slow and usually damaged the sheath in some way. My method takes about 5 to 10 seconds per eyelet and I have yet to damage a sheath doing it. If done properly there won't be any scratches on the sheath and the eyelet will not spin and melt the sheath. I've removed over 100 eyelets this way and in some cases 5 or 6 from the same hole! This method is for the .25" eyelets we use. It will work on any size but you may need slightly different diameter tools
You need the following tools:
-cordless drill or drill press.
-a vise of some sort
-3/8" chamfer bit or anything similar with sharp edges (I actually use a broken 3/8" endmill most of the time) you could even make a triangle with sharp edges out of steel
**-3/8" ball nose endmill (carbide or HSS) I use a 4 flute carbide one, not sure if a 2 flute would work, though I imagine it would. This is the most important tool**
the ball mill I use
chamfer bit in vise (this one happens to be chucked into a tool holder)
broken end mill (instead of chamfer bit)
ball mill in drill
I'm sure all of you have a vice and drill. The chafmer bit or similar shouldn't be a problem either. The ball nose endmill is the one thing some of you may have to buy or get from a machinist friend
. It is the most important part of this method. It's shape and cutting edge geometry is the reason it works well! You should be able to find an HSS one for less than $5 locally.
To start Chuck the ball mill into your drill. Next fasten the chamfer bit into the vise. Place the finished side of the eyelet (that comes rolled from the factory) down onto the chamfer bit with firm pressure; The flutes of the chamfer bit biting into the eyelet is what prevents it from spinning when you drill out the other side. Now you simply drill out the other (split) side until the rolled rim is gone. Use gentle pressure and slow speed while drilling to prevent the eyelet from spinning and to avoid drilling into the sheath. If your ball mill is sharp it will cut through the brass like a hot knife through butter, even at slow speed.
Once you've drilled off the rim of the eyelet it can be pushed through with a ~.25" punch (stubby screw driver in my case).
eyelet after drillling
Sheath after eyelet removal
If the eyelet is spinning, you either don't have a sharp enough too in the vise to bite into it, your aren't pressing down the sheath onto said tool enough or you are pushing too hard with the drill.
Here is a quick video showing how it works. This was just whipped together and filmed on a phone with a tumbler running in the background. Sorry about the noise!
[video]https://youtu.be/6ETBFUhaTBg[/video]
Here is the easy split-eyelet removal method some of you were asking about. I hope it helps!
I've had some problems with bad batches of brass kydex eyelets in the last year. There has been one positive result of this; I've developed a very quick and easy way to remove split eyelets. Until I started doing it this way I tried a few other methods including try to cut off the rolled side which were tedious, slow and usually damaged the sheath in some way. My method takes about 5 to 10 seconds per eyelet and I have yet to damage a sheath doing it. If done properly there won't be any scratches on the sheath and the eyelet will not spin and melt the sheath. I've removed over 100 eyelets this way and in some cases 5 or 6 from the same hole! This method is for the .25" eyelets we use. It will work on any size but you may need slightly different diameter tools
You need the following tools:
-cordless drill or drill press.
-a vise of some sort
-3/8" chamfer bit or anything similar with sharp edges (I actually use a broken 3/8" endmill most of the time) you could even make a triangle with sharp edges out of steel
**-3/8" ball nose endmill (carbide or HSS) I use a 4 flute carbide one, not sure if a 2 flute would work, though I imagine it would. This is the most important tool**
the ball mill I use
chamfer bit in vise (this one happens to be chucked into a tool holder)
broken end mill (instead of chamfer bit)
ball mill in drill
I'm sure all of you have a vice and drill. The chafmer bit or similar shouldn't be a problem either. The ball nose endmill is the one thing some of you may have to buy or get from a machinist friend
. It is the most important part of this method. It's shape and cutting edge geometry is the reason it works well! You should be able to find an HSS one for less than $5 locally. To start Chuck the ball mill into your drill. Next fasten the chamfer bit into the vise. Place the finished side of the eyelet (that comes rolled from the factory) down onto the chamfer bit with firm pressure; The flutes of the chamfer bit biting into the eyelet is what prevents it from spinning when you drill out the other side. Now you simply drill out the other (split) side until the rolled rim is gone. Use gentle pressure and slow speed while drilling to prevent the eyelet from spinning and to avoid drilling into the sheath. If your ball mill is sharp it will cut through the brass like a hot knife through butter, even at slow speed.
Once you've drilled off the rim of the eyelet it can be pushed through with a ~.25" punch (stubby screw driver in my case).
eyelet after drillling
Sheath after eyelet removal
If the eyelet is spinning, you either don't have a sharp enough too in the vise to bite into it, your aren't pressing down the sheath onto said tool enough or you are pushing too hard with the drill.
Here is a quick video showing how it works. This was just whipped together and filmed on a phone with a tumbler running in the background. Sorry about the noise!
[video]https://youtu.be/6ETBFUhaTBg[/video]
