Rennaisance Wax

vikingblade

vikingblade

Joined
Feb 28, 2002
Messages
85
how is this for rust protection?
what finish does it leave on blade? is it noticeable?
where can i find it? local or do i have get mail order?
thanks
 
We swear by it! It works better than anything else we've found, and we tried some 10 different products before we found it.

go to www.dogpile.com and type in Renaissance wax....you can find a source that way. You're looking for the 200ml ($20) jar...it's a lifetime supply.

Put on just a teeny little bit, rub it all over with your fingers....handles, hilts, blades, sheaths, everything...then use a microfiber cloth by Flitz ($10) to wipe it all to a high luster...

Just don't leave it on for more than a few seconds, because it hardens quickly like car wax...

Mel
 
I use a number of things (of course) and Renaissance Wax is one of them. It specifically was purchased for my leather handed knives but I wound up putting it everywhere. I really like what it does for my knives.
 
Some very knowledgeable folks love it; and some don't. I use it but I don't really get the best results except for storage. I get a bit of a dulled patina on mine, but I think the finish can be lightly buffed or rubbed. I use it more for rust protection than appearance. It's not very effective for real users, but that's only my experience.
 
thanks. can i really buff it up to a high finish without removing it. and defeating its protection.
 
the keys here again are, don't leave it on more than a few seconds, and use a micro fiber cloth to wipe it down....and then buff the heck out of it...we haven't had any streaking, or rust, using it that way.

It's a microcrystalline wax, so it can be 'invisible' and still work wonders...but, if you believe that wax needs to be put on thick, and left on, so be it. (It's not what the instructions say to do, but hey, not everyone believes what they read...lol)

In other words, if you feel that you 'have to see it' for wax to work, then yep, it's going to look pretty streaky...

Agreeing with HJK here, there are better 'user' knife products. For a 'user', I'd recommend Sentry Solutions 'Marine Tuff Cloth'...good stuff for outdoor use, or for people that don't want to clean their knives... ;)

Mel
 
im actually looking for a product that will be invisable and still protect. i love my satin finish and i wanna keep it. if Renaissance wax will let me buff to high polish,protect my blade from corrosion and be dry....awesome. ill order some up. when you say small amount and dont let sit... put small tab of it anywhere on blade,immediately spread with clean cloth or fingers, then immediately continue to buff. or do i let sit a minute. thanks for the help. also, ive never heard of flitz micro fiber cloth. only flitz polish paste. what are they and where can i find them.
 
...let your fingers do the surfing at http://www.flitz.com/

On the Ren. Wax, yeah, you've got it figured out, except for the 'minute' part...if you leave it on for 60 seconds, you'll spend 20 minutes rubbing it off...a second, a few seconds tops...it dries harder than a 'mo fo', and quickly too...

Mel
 
THANKS
One last quick question...hehe. do i lightly rub with the flitz, then buff vigorously with cloth or do i buff entirely with the flitz cloth.
wont the flitz remove the wax.
 
One last quick answer...

If you go look at the specs for the Flitz cloth you'll see that it's not treated with anything, therefore it won't remove the Ren. Wax microcrystaline particles...and the cloth is washable to boot...

Adios,

Mel

--addition-- Well, it doesn't say that in the ad, but it does say it one the package the cloth comes in...
 
Mel is right on (at least in my experience). The cool thing about Ren Wax (and yes to buffing it with a fine soft cloth seconds after application) is that it has not built up at all over 12 years or so of use. Great for mirror polished and satin blades. Does wonders for natural handle materials. Stag and bone always look better after an aplication.

Most of us will be able to pass that 20 dollar can along with knives to our heirs :D.
 
Has anyone else tried Flitz Gun Wax? I just bought a bottle at my local gun shop and it works great on my knives. It reminds me of car wax, wipe a little on the blade, let dry then buff. I have yet to find a product that can bring out such a nice finish on knife blades. I haven't tried Ren Wax so I can't comment on the similarities/differences.

Ryan
 
This sounds like the kind of protection I am looking for. I have been using a similar treatment, but with car wax.

Can anyone compare the Renaissance Wax to car wax? Is it similar or is there a difference in hardness or durability? Like many people, I have car wax on hand, but would have to go to trouble and expense to get Ren. Wax. Worth it?

Thanks.
 
I have heard from more than one bladesmith, not to use silicon based car waxes on knives. The reasoning behind this has something to do with sealing in any moisture that may be present which then leads to problems. I have no experience with this, just passing along what a couple of Mastersmiths have relayed to me.

Ren Wax is indeed great stuff. Works great on Damascus as well as carbon blades. Brings out a very natural lustre on stag, leather and wood. A little does go a long way. Works well for hiding finger prints too.
 
Ren wax is some great stuff! I love and use it for all my knives. It will make any wood or stag handle look much better. I just put a dab on my fingertip and rub it in like spit shining your boot. Let it dry for a second or two and buff it off with a clean soft cloth like an old T shirt. I do not like to use it on my blades, however, because it is too easy to get too much wax on. Like mentioned earlier, the stuff dries very quickly, and if you put too much on a blade, there will be streaks of dried wax that are kind of hard to get rid of.
 
On the too much. Been there done that. It is also hard to get off of bead blasting. My solution was to put the knife in my trunk for a min. on a warm (not hot) day. The wax will soften and come off.

I have not tried car wax, sticking with Ren Wax seems to be a good bet. The stuff is used by museums on just about anything you can think of. Thin coats are the key.
 
Another key is that clean soft old tee-shirt or other cloth Danbo mentioned.

Emphasis is on clean and soft. Use cotton (none of that man-made spun plastic (rayon, nylon, double knit Neru blazers etc. :).

Meaning do not wipe the garage floor with it and wonder where those micro scratches came from when you use it to buff the wax :D.
 
I used to use Ren wax on all my knives. Leaves a great finish and isn't greasy. Then a few of my blades rusted badly. Also, ivory handles cracked (ouch!). Now I still use Ren wax on some of my knives, but use a greasy oil based thing (from AG Russel) on blades that I feel are at greater risk of rusting, and mineral oil on ivory.
 
This seems like a good opportunity to ask this question...

How exactly do you buff a knife blade vigorously without getting it bloody?
 
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