Please, help us prevent you getting ripped off because someone got their account compromised by reusing their email & password. Read the new best practices for using the Exchange FAQ page.

Review Busse Basic #7

Thanks cliff - a great, thorough and very informative review, as usual; you do us knifenuts a great service!

The beatings will continue until morale improves.
That was one thorough knife review!! WELL DONE! As a big fan of D2, I found the steel comparisons very interesting. Your "understandable" explanations of the metallurgy seemed right on from my experience.
I'm in the process of making a similar size knife for my own use out of L6 material(thanks L6!!). I will take into consideration a lot of what I read in this review as the design is finalized for my own knife!
Thanks Cliff,

Update in process! New knives, pictures, Sheaths!!

[This message has been edited by Dr.Lathe (edited 07 December 1999).]
Thanks, I said awhile ago if the Busse Combat Basic line was anyway near the hype then it would not be a good sign for production knives. After working with the Basic the last few months it definately isn't. They are priced under the other top production blades (Mission, Cold Steel etc.), far under the small shop "custom" (Reeve, Mad Dog), and overall outperform them all by a clear margin utility wise.

Just one thing. Have you noticed any difference after you took off the one side convex edge grind? I have wondered if that edge config makes a performance dif. or not.
Soon I'll be able to put in my two cents worth-I just bought the last Basic #7 from The Knife Outlet and I should have it in a couple of weeks. Can't wait to see if it's as good as everyone says.

"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
No I can't say I saw a difference before and after I took it off. However I wasn't really looking for it. Mainly I was comparing the Basic to some other blades.

You do raise an interesting point however and since I was planning on putting the convex bevel back on before lending it to some friends I will probably do some work before and after I do this to see what kind of a difference it makes.

Another excellent test, and speaking as a consumer and knife geek, thanks.

An interesting issue was the edge durability of some of the knives before and after sharpening. I'll need to read the test again but from what I gathered you observed some improvements in durability after sharpening, which perhaps suggests that the edges on some had work hardened during sharpening at the factory. I think that highly alloyed/stainless steels will tend to work harden more than low alloy/carbon steels given similar stresses. If that or something similar is happening it would be prudent to sharpen some knives before hard use.
Yes, it is possible that the factory edges do not produce the best possible performance. In general whenever I have a problem with a blade giving a low quality cut, I cut the bevel fresh with a x-coarse stone and remove the metal past the indendation point. As seen in the Basic this can make a difference for a variety of reasons. Specific to the problems I was having I think it was that the edge was getting weakened from heavy impacts and I was not removing the metal by honing but just reshaping the edge.