Rolling Mill for Damascus?

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Oct 28, 1999
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I was over on the Kayne & Sons website looking at their Blu Crusher rolling mill.

Has anyone used this or a similar machine for forge welding damascus billets.

I would appreciate any and all opinions and information on this method.

Thanks!

Greg Covington
 
I just completed my rolling mill about 2 weeks ago. It has 8 1/4" diameter rollers and turns at about 35 to 45 rpm. It does a fantastic job of rolling damascus. I completed my MS test knife using 52100 and 15N20. The only thing that I see is that if you want a pattern, you have to put it in. My next project is to make some pattern rolls in raindrop, ladder, and something else. But the first two will be done by this fall.
I have a 250 CID Chevelet engine with standard transmission that is hooked to some shafts on pillar block bearings with sprockets and chains. I built it to roll out 52100 round bar into flat for people that would like to use 52100 but don't forge. The damascus part was a bonus. It also makes a very clean weld as I cut and stack and clean by grinding each piece. To weld and draw out takes less that 10 minutes, its the grinding and welding back that takes the time. It doesn't do a cut and fold very well as the end will turn up too quick. It also doesn't do an edge crush very well unless you start off with a billet thicker than it is wide and turn it to the edge as soon as it is forged and square. I have spent a year and a half getting this one to where it is now.
I don't know about the Kayne and Son's Blu Crusher. I have seen them advertised and I am sure that they will work. I had talked to Darryl Meir last year at the Blade Show and he was the one that told me what size rollers and about how fast to turn them. That made a world of difference. The 3" rollers that I had tried to use would not grab the bar and when it did, it didn't squeeze it enought to hardly see any compression. That was the first six months.
The MS knife will be heat treated sometime this week and then I will do some testing on it. If everything goes good, I will use it in the cutting contest at Washington, Ark. in October and then take my MS performance test (if it makes it through the cutting contest).
If there is anything I can help you with, let me know and I will try to answer your questions.
 
A friend of mine built a roller it works great. The points about it are you can roll a very long billet very easy. Only limited by the lenght of your forge heat.
Very quite we use it in a suburban back yard.
Its lengthens quickly but does not add much width. We give it a hammer after a couple of folds to add with the roll it to flattern.
The straight pattern no grinds or holes or twists added can look a bit plain the layers are very evan so there is not much of a random pattern. I made a nice long bowie whith parrallel lines length ways.

he uses a 1 horse power electric motor geared to give more power and less reves.Some v belts some chain drive sections . the amount of crush is added by a foot lever. the more you push the more crush.
This means you can tapper the tange and the blade very smooth.

The inventor of the design we used was hugh macdonald I think he is assosiated with a site called IFORGE. Compared to me swinging the 10 pound hammer for a few hours the roller is mutch easyer and quiker.

We have not had a problem with it so far.
 
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