Rubber Handled Knives

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swede79

Joined
Jan 30, 2001
Messages
813
A recent post with pictures got me thinking. This one had cut the handle off of a CS Trailmaster to show a LOT of rust that had made it's way under the rubber handle. Now I'm thinking of lots of knives made this way, Fallkniven, Swamp Rat, Cold Steel, etc.

What could be done to prevent this? Should the handle be epoxied close to the ricasso or choil? Seems the "tactical" knives would definitely have the advantage here, assuming the epoxy coat covered the tang also.
 
That was my father's Trailmaster with the nasty rust under the handle. The best way to avoid the problem is to buy a knife that does not have a rubber handle! Or make sure it is properly sealed and or the tang is fully coated with a rust inhibitor.
 
Rubber handles... I hate rubber handles... I only dislike the dentist, being beaten up, or having car stolen, but rubber handles, I HATE!
 
Originally posted by swede79
A recent post with pictures got me thinking. This one had cut the handle off of a CS Trailmaster to show a LOT of rust that had made it's way under the rubber handle. Now I'm thinking of lots of knives made this way, Fallkniven, Swamp Rat, Cold Steel, etc.

What could be done to prevent this? Should the handle be epoxied close to the ricasso or choil? Seems the "tactical" knives would definitely have the advantage here, assuming the epoxy coat covered the tang also.
Click to expand...


Cold Steel makes some nice product at reasonable prices, They must have a great QC program because I just don't see the nasty stuff you see on lot of "premium" brands, (uneven grinds,crooked trademarks, stray tool marks.) None of these things effect the function of the knife but they definitely take the bloom off the rose when you find them. That being said, they need to abandon the cheap handle materials and blade finishes on their fixed blades. or atleast offer the same knife with a more durable handle.

The reason for using Kraton is not because it is a good handle. It is mediocre at best.
It's used because you can mold a handle on a knife in less than a minute No finishing work required. It keeps costs down. But man it looks bad. It's like dressing a supermodel in clothes from walmart. Lynn Thompson! if you're listening, More kives like the Military classic!!!!!


I see they also have started going to beadblasted blades on their new economy fixed blades. Arrrrrrrrrrrgh! I hate beadblasted blades it makes them look cheap! Beadblast is another money saver. Beadblast the blades right from the heat treat. no ned to grind that brown color off or grind deap scratches out, beadblast hides it all. Beadblast is to knifeblades what refrigerator white paint is to auto body shops. They will both hide a multitude of sins. And you can't see finger prints on either. But it holds moisture and icky stuff real good. Out in the forest there aren't always places to stop and wash your knife.

Hey Lynn Thompson! How about a SRK wth a brass or NS guard and a micarta handle with a bright finished blade?

here endeth the rant.I will now yield the soapbox

Drew
 
I have been secretly plotting on how to put wooden handles and a stainless guard on my SRK...

I e-mailed someone who said he could do it for about 65 bucks, but I lost his e-mails and can't seem to remember who I spoke to about it...
 
"The reason for using Kraton is not because it is a good handle. It is mediocre at best."
Are you kidding? The kraton handles on the Bushranger and Katz knives are among the most comfortable and secure handles I've ever held.
In terms of a full tang knife with traditional materials, scales have to be shaped and the tang contoured to provide a superior handle to the ones mentioned above. I can confidently say that many have not mastered this fine art even when they can create a beautiful blade.
Yes, it is cost effective but that's the point isn't it.
It probably requires more skill to create a handle like the one in the links below than to grind the blade. Wish I could afford a drawer full of these.

http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/chappel3.htm
http://www.robertsoncustomcutlery.com/chappel8.htm
 
Many of the Extrema Ratio fixed blades have Kraton handles that are mechanically fastened. When you get one new, it has all the factory lube on it. All you do is remove the handle, clean the knife up and then add your own brand of protectant to the tang and blade. Then, reattach the Kraton scales with the supplied fasteners. Like other aspects of these knives, stuff is very well thought out.
 
Kraton sure looks butt-ugly, but it makes for a nice, grippy handle on knives that are meant to be used. People often complain about it being too soft for a heavy-duty knife, but those are probably the same folks that like brittle stag scales...go figure... :rolleyes: ;)
 
The problem with fluids getting under the handles and rusting the tangs is not really the fault of the rubber, but rather that the rubber handles are not sealed. Generally rubber handles are slipped on to the tangs and held in place only by the lanyard hole liner.

Handles or scales that are made of other materials and are not epoxied can also allow fluid to get in. Guards should be soldered for the same reason.

If kraton is injection molded to the tang as is often done with zytel, it should seal out fluids.



- Frank
 
Originally posted by MelancholyMutt
I have been secretly plotting on how to put wooden handles and a stainless guard on my SRK...

I e-mailed someone who said he could do it for about 65 bucks, but I lost his e-mails and can't seem to remember who I spoke to about it...
Click to expand...

I just did that very thing today with a cold steel peacekeeper, (small one), Brass guard, Black paper micarta grip,(about 3/4" longer) and rubbed out the bead blasted blade to 600 grit. made the guard identical to the original so I could use the Kydex sheath it came with.

Drew
 
Originally posted by swede79
A recent post with pictures got me thinking. This one had cut the handle off of a CS Trailmaster to show a LOT of rust that had made it's way under the rubber handle. Now I'm thinking of lots of knives made this way, Fallkniven, Swamp Rat, Cold Steel, etc.

What could be done to prevent this? Should the handle be epoxied close to the ricasso or choil? Seems the "tactical" knives would definitely have the advantage here, assuming the epoxy coat covered the tang also.
Click to expand...

This is EXACTLY why I DO NOT BUY knives that have handle material that completely surrounds the tang and makes the metal inaccessible. I simply don't trust what I can't see, and if I can't see the metal that's under a fully-encompassing wrap of rubber or kraton or plastic or whatever, I won't feel confident about the knife being in good condition under there.

This unfortunate fact of knife design keeps me from buying knives that I otherwise would enjoy a lot, like the SOG Pentagon, among others.

---Jeffrey
 
"This unfortunate fact of knife design (rubber handles) keeps me from buying knives that I otherwise would enjoy a lot"

I suggest you not deny yourself the pleasure of owning many fine knives with rubber handles. If there was any real problem with rubber handles you can bet we would have heard about it by now and you can be sure the manufacturers would know and have reacted to this.
 
The solution is to get a Trailmaster, cut off the rubber handle and epoxy a nice piece of wood or micarta on. It's really easy to cut off the rubber handle. Like somebody mentioned, it's only held on by the thonghole. After that, simply drill a hole in a block of wood or micarta, epoxy it in place and shape away once it dries overnight. Really, you don't even need power tools either. A wood rasp and sandpaper would work fine.
 
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