Sanding Belt progression

Tom Lewis

Tom Lewis

Joined
Feb 24, 2000
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Over the years I have tried a lot of different sanding belts and combinations of sanding belts. What I now use may not be for everyone, but I find it works very well for me.
The belts I use are Norton Blaze 980 belts in 36,60,120 grits, Klingspor J-Flex belts in 220 and 400 grit, and Norax 22.
I will describe how I do a stock removal blade, but when I forge, I use the same progression.
1. To profile the outline of the blade I use a dull 36 grit belt. Some use a bandsaw for this, but I find I can quickly get the job done with a dull 36 grit belt that isn't good for anything else. These belts last a long, long time.
2. To taper the tang I use a new 36 grit belt and use the method in Bob Loveless' book "How to make knives." It's easy and fast.
3. To make the bevels I use a worn 36 grit belt on a 14" wheel. These belts last a long, long time before I use the belt to profile the outline.
4. Next I use a 60 grit belt on a 10" wheel to get the 36grit scratches out. The 60 grit belt lasts a long time and takes just a few minutes to get the 36 grit scratches out.
5. Next I use a 120 grit belt to get the 60 grit scratches out. If I am using CPM 154, I first use the 120 grit belt to do the flats on the blade. When the 120 grit belt starts to get dull, I use it to get the 60 grit scratches out. These belts last a long, long time, and quickly get the 60 grit scratches out.
6. Next I use a 220 J-flex belt to clean up the plunge cuts and get the 120 grit scratches out. These belts do not last very long. Maybe 5 blades, but they are flexible and are good to clean up the plunge cuts. It takes a very few minutes.
7. The I use a 400 J-flex belt the same way. These belts do not last very long, maybe 5 blades, but again they are flexible and do a nice job of cleaning up the plunge cuts. Again, it takes a very few minutes.
8. Last I use a 22 Norax belt. These belts seem to last forever. They get all the scratches out and makes hand sanding very quick.
9. Next I hand sand with 400,500,600,800,1200 grit sandpaper. If I have done a proper job with the sanding belts, the hand sanding doesn't take long.

I would invite others to tell of your sanding belt progression. I am including a picture of the final product and would also invite others to show a picture of the results of their sanding progression.
 

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Thanks for sharing Tom - your progression sounds like a good plan. The last couple of blades I've tried 36 grit to profile, and cut main bevel followed by 300 gator, then 100 gator, then 65 gator, finishing with a 45 gator then final with cork belt. I do think I need to put the 60 grit between the 300 gator which is about 80 grit.

Thanks again for sharing.

Ken H>
 
Do you profile on a wheel or on a flat platen? I just started using a 2x72 and I'm trying to figure out the best method. I also can go horizontal but I haven't tried either that way yet.
 
For this one I used

36 grit VSM
50 grit VSM send to heat treat
Back from HT
50 grit VSM to almost final grind height
100 Cubitron ll establish true plunge sweeping to meet previous grind height
Gator V160 150 grit to perfect the plunge
Gator V65 240 grit
Gator V45 400 grit
Cork 400 green compound loaded.

[video=youtube;_RLRfL-ufeI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RLRfL-ufeI[/video]
 
I profile the blade outline on a 8" contact wheel. A wheel cuts much better than the flat platen. I only use the flat platen for tapering tangs and doing the flats (ricasso). The flat platen is hard on belts and gets hot fast.
Holding the blade in a almost vertical position on the 10" contact wheel I can get a flat grind. I know a lot of knifemakers grind the bevels on a flat platen but I don't.
 
Thanks Tom,

Over the years I have fallen in love and out of love with the Gator belts. Now I do most the grind with the 50 and the 100 Cubitron II, using the Gators for clean up works better for me and the cork load or unloaded give me the finish I like.

Considering so many customers like satin finish and are not insisting on hand sanded finishes I leave that for only those who really want it, and pay for it :)
 
(for blades) 36, 80, 120, 220, 400, 600 cork, 800 cork, hand sand 1000, hand sand 1500. i really like the cork belts, i have done about 65 knives with one belt. they last almost forever.
 
Tom, good info.

You might want to try 3M 984f belts, they work a lot better than Blaze belts for me.
 
question: as tom mentioned, i have read before that profiling is faster with a wheel rather than a flat platen. why is that so ? the wheel would have perhaps a microscopically larger contact area, it seems odd it would contribute to a noticeable difference.
 
Also on the subject of wheel profiling, is is difficult to get a square spine? Do you just square it up on the platen at the end?
 
Here's what will get you a "square spine".
Get yourself 3 or 4 nuts off of say 3/8" or 1/2" bolts. Now press the side of one of these up against the platen gently with a fresh 220 or 120 grit belt running. With care you will soon see if the surface being contacted is perpendicular or at an angle. I have one table set up as such and another I can move as I want.
Frank
 
Don, thanks for the suggestion, I'll try the 3M 984f belts. I am always looking for a better way to do things.
Woodster, I don't know if I can explain why, but try profiling on a wheel as compared to a flat platen. For me it works much better.
E. Carlson, The spine will not be square as it comes off the wheel. I don't worry about that until I am working on shaping the handle. I hold the blade and handle vertically and run it across the wheel. it's easy to get a square spine that way.
 
i have read before that profiling is faster with a wheel rather than a flat platen
Click to expand...

John, you asked the above question and I don't think anyone has really answered it directly. The wheel takes less power due to drag of belts across platen. While it doesn't "seem" like it would make that much difference, you can really throw more sparks with a contact wheel than on the flat platen. If doing the bevel on a contact wheel free hand, you'll notice the "hollow" made tends to help hold blade straighter than with a flat platen as the wheel tends to follow the hollow.
 
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