Scabbard Problem

ddean

ddean

Joined
Mar 26, 2002
Messages
3,397
My BAS and Sirupati both have the same problem.

The point of the blade digs in about halfway inside.

I had the BAS first and thought it would "break in".

It's about ready to break out.

The blade has worn a hole in the wood and
is going to wear through the leather soon.

Before I try to drip epoxy down into the hole,
I thought I'd see if there was a well-known solution.
 
When my BAS arrived it had worked itself loose in the mail and had punched a hole right through the scabbard about half way along. I taped the scabbard up but the BAS continued to do the same thing yours is doing. This particular BAS has a fairly sharp pointed end to the blade.

I solved my problem in a unconventional way. The handle on my BAS was too small for my hand but my daughter loved it (lighter than her AK and she loved the engravings on the BAS blade). Her AK fitted my hand perfectly. She swapped me her 15 inch Chiruwa AK for the BAS. Her scabbard was a little bigger and the BAS no longer has the problem. Although the AK fit is tight in my scabbard, it fits well and we are both happy - I don't think this remedy is for everybody.
 
Khukuri Scabbards tend to do that. It usually means you are inserting the knife at the wrong angle. The knife is bent remember. :) Try moving the point away from the back of the sheath; it usually works.

n2s
 
Seems like with the khuks I have that sheathing the blade is a 3-step process:

1 - insert bent blade
2 - give it a slight turn (cutting direction)
3 - push the blade in until snug

All of mine have always needed this. The BAS is the loosest of them all and could probably be sheathed in one smooth motion. However, I use the 3-step method anyway - saves wear and tear on me and the blade. Plus, I am to the point where I can do it nearly as quick as a 1-step motion.

Dan
 
If you remember you're trying to go around a corner it will help. It's just the nature of the beast.
 
Ddean:

I use the iaido draw & resheathe method, which works especially well for any of the beveled-spine Khuks.
I place the tip in up to the bend, firmly but gently press the as much of the spine as possible into contact with the spine part of the sheath, then push the khuk the rest of the way in, making sure the spine is in constant contact with the sheath back. You get a feel for it after a while, like the khuk is 'rotating' into the sheath.

If that fails, you may have to add inserts to your sheath, such as thin kydex, heat formed around the blade.

I am currently redesigning the sheath for a YCS I got in trade, so I've broken it open to take a look inside. I didn't like some of the gunk that was in there, and so I am relining the wood scabbard form with kydex, (and maybe wool after that). The wood is porous and light, similar to balsa wood, so if you ding the inside, you may need to replace the missing area with some material. If you pour glue in, you might also change certain with parameters that will make it difficult or impossible to sheathe/unsheathe the khuk.

my .02

Keith
 
Originally posted by Ferrous Wheel
...and so I am relining the wood scabbard form with kydex...
Click to expand...
yikes!!:eek: :eek:
 
...I'll keep you posted on my findings with the scabbard for my YCS. Perhaps I'll be able to give some pointers...Keith
 
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