Scandi-Vex

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
20,978
Sound like a feasible term to you?

You can see it in this thread:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=530798


This knife:

NessmukCocobolo0204-01.jpg





Seems like it would have all the benefit of a scandi-grind, with the smoothness and sharpness of a convex edge.


Can't wait to get some feedback from testing! :thumbup:


There will be more of these this week!!!!

Dan
 
I think this is a fantastic idea. Two questions for you Dan. First, would it be correct to assume that you would use the mousepad sharpening method with the scandi sharpening technique, i.e. placing the blade on the flats of the grind as you would a scandi and then drawing back as you would with a standard convex edge? If so, this is the best of both worlds. Fantastic edge and easier sharpening.

Second, do you think any other steels would see a greater benefit from this type of edge in the nessie format? I'm thinking along the lines of making sharpening easier in some of the tougher and more rust resistant steels.

Me thinks that some of my funds are going Koster's way (again).
 
Yes, you would want to use the mousepad sharpening method (edge-trailing). But you would only need to sharpen the very end of the bevel....wouldn't need to lay the flats down on the stone. Make sense?


I see this working best for any fine-grain steels (O1, 5160, 1095, W2, 13C26...) and some medium-grain steels (3V, CPM154, A2). I know that some are able to convex their coarse-grain steels (S30V, D2...)...but seems like a lot of work. :D
 
have no idea....would definitely be interested in some testing!
 
Yes, you would want to use the mousepad sharpening method (edge-trailing). But you would only need to sharpen the very end of the bevel....wouldn't need to lay the flats down on the stone. Make sense?

Sort of, but if you only sharpened the very end of the bevel, wouldn't that negate the point of having a partial scandi grind since the more you sharpen the edge, the higher up the bevel its going to go, making it wider.



I see this working best for any fine-grain steels (O1, 5160, 1095, W2, 13C26...) and some medium-grain steels (3V, CPM154, A2). I know that some are able to convex their coarse-grain steels (S30V, D2...)...but seems like a lot of work. :D

Between A2 and 5150 which do you feel would be better for a scandvex nesmuck (see its knife vernacular already).
 
STAGE 2 - I view sharpening as being 2 steps: first, grinding....second, polishing.

You only need to polish (anything above 120 grit is polishing) the very edge

You only need to grind (coarse stone, etc) to take dings out.

So, yes, you'll regrind the bevel probably once every 10 times your sharpen it (for example).

Make sense?




Re: A2 vs. 5160

Actually, I'd rather go with O1 in the nessmuk-sized knife. If I had to choose, I'd go with A2, since I prefer 5160 be used in larger knives...and A2 is close to O1 (performance-wise).
 
I did a round of Bushcrafters with a convex scandi, and people seemed to love them.
 
STAGE 2 - I view sharpening as being 2 steps: first, grinding....second, polishing.

You only need to polish (anything above 120 grit is polishing) the very edge

You only need to grind (coarse stone, etc) to take dings out.

So, yes, you'll regrind the bevel probably once every 10 times your sharpen it (for example).

Make sense?

Gotcha




Re: A2 vs. 5160

Actually, I'd rather go with O1 in the nessmuk-sized knife. If I had to choose, I'd go with A2, since I prefer 5160 be used in larger knives...and A2 is close to O1 (performance-wise).

I have heard that O1 rusts easily. In your opinion what steel would see the most benefit from a scandivex without sacrificing too much in rust resistance.
 
A2 then. :thumbup:



That said...I am trying out some 13C26 fine-grain stainless...hopefully in a nessmuk soon. We'll see how that works out!
 
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