Screw Tapping for Making Folders

K

kamik

Joined
Oct 16, 2000
Messages
7
For folder making,I have seen many different ways to tap accurate machine screw holes. What is the best way? The automatic attachment for a drill press looks good but they are pricey. Has anyone used the hand crank style guides? Does anyone have plans or drawings to help a person to make his own crank style guide?

Thanks MTS

 
There are several ways.
A battery drill will work well. Just make sure the tap is lined up with the hole right.

Take a 39 dollar drill press, remove the motor, spin the pulley buy hand with a tap in the spindle.

Buy a tapping head . Enco sells then very resonalble.




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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
MADD MAXX !
 
When using a drill press to support a tap, especially a small diameter tap, be sure to remove (loosen, disengage, whatever...) the return spring on the spindle...

If you don't, the drill press will constantly be trying to lift the item being tapped.

Good Luck...

Bruce
 
Kamik, I just did my first tapping of those tiny screw holes in some .09 titanium and just used one of those drill chucks that are made for an electric screw driver. They're alot easier to tap than I thought and the taps aren't as fragile as they look. I finally went out and bought an electric screw driver to use next time.

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Take care!! Michael

Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
I've heard using a variable speed drill or power screwdrives works quite well but knowing how easy it is break a tap as large as 6-32, wouldn't using a power tool make it even easier? Is there a certain technique to it? Do you use a device with a variable clutch? Inquiring minds want to know
smile.gif


Hugh

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King of all that rhymes with Orange!
 
I use a skill twist drill. Cost less than $20.00. Just buy a Jacobs drill chuck on a hex shaft for another $15.00 and your on your way. I use tapping oil with the tap. The drill has just the right torque to do the job. I have made 40+ folders and have broken only 2 taps! One due to carelessness! I use 1-72 pan head screws. I learned this trick from Kit Carson.
 
Another thing I was thinking of was stock thickness. My broken 6-32 tap was a result of threading some holes in 1/4" 440C. Would the power screwdriver method work in this thickness?

Hugh

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King of all that rhymes with Orange!
 
Hugh, I am usually tapping .050 - .075 Ti for liners. I also tap anealed blade material up to 5/32. The thicker you go the slower you need to go. If it's thick I will back the tap out occasionally to clean the threads out. Most of my holes are .005 less than the tap thickness to start. I feel you should be able to tap 6/32 no problem if you take your time, use tap fluid each time it gets inserted back in, keep the drill and tap straight/90 degrees to the hole. This usually takes care of itself to self center the farther in it goes.
 
I bought a Skil screwdriver and the chuck attachment recently and it seems to work great. I have tried it on some thin steel with no problems. I am wondering if using slightly larger taps than the 1-72, say 2-56 might lessen the chance of breakage. Is it generally easier to break taps if they are smaller?

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Peter Atwood

email:fountainman@hotmail.com
 
I got a new battery drill for christamas!
IT HAS A CLUTCH!

Works great .. Now I am the proud owner owner of 4 of them of them of them of them hahahahahahahhaha.


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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
MADD MAXX !
 
Larger taps are much easier, just keep all of them as close to 90 degrees as possible while going into the hole. One of the two 1-72's that I broke came from me rushing and being sloppy and bending ever so slightly the drill while the tap was already started in the hole. That was a $7.00 mistake/lesson!
wink.gif
 
CJ, IMHO, there is no reason to pay $7.00 for a 1-72 tap. Watch MSC, every once in a while they are on sale for less than $2.00. You can still get some for less than $3.00.

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A.T.
http://www.customknives.com
If you make, sell, or just love knives and want a website with your name
customknives.com/your.name, AND a links page for $70.00 a year? Check out
http://www.customknives.com/webdesign
AKTI #476
 
The last time I bought the 1-72 tap was when I got into knifemaking in 1998. I bought 4 of them from a local machine shop and they were $7.00 a piece. Since then I have ordered alot thru MSC (IMO best damm/fastest service out there bar none!)I still have 2 left and will keep my eye out for the $2 to $3 dollar models. Thanks for the input!
wink.gif
 
Hi Darrel, Would you please give me the name of the battery screw driver with the clutch ? Thanks!
 
I haven't bought any yet but the best deals I found on taps is at online hobby stores. Prices in the $2.50 to 3.00 range for 0-80 to 2-56. Might want to do a search for hobby stores.

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Tony Huffman
thuffman@texinet.net
Sporting Clays & Shotguns ... my other bad habit!
 
The Drill is a Craftsman model #
315.111690
130/400 rpm dual speed
It has a handle that switchs into a pistol grip also.

My father got it for me I dont know the price but I use it like crazy!
Comes in a case with a charger
Has a clutch on the front

As for taps
The CARBON CHEAP A** taps work well also.
IF you break them in Titanium you can soak the part in ferric. This will eat the tap out fast. For the high speed it take a few days. For the carbon it take 4 hours or so.

Just my 2 cents.


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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
MADD MAXX !
 
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by kamik:
For folder making,I have seen many different ways to tap accurate machine screw holes. What is the best way? The automatic attachment for a drill press looks good but they are pricey. Has anyone used the hand crank style guides? Does anyone have plans or drawings to help a person to make his own crank style guide?

Thanks MTS

</font>
Click to expand...

If you drill and tap your drill press table with a couple of holes so you can bolt down your scales under a piece of bar stock with matching holes. then position thepiece to be taped in the right stop and bold down. Now you can drill the tap hole and then put the tap in the chuck. UNPLUG the drill press and flip the guard up. now you can pull down whith one hand and use the pulley to turn the tap in .each timeyou turn the tap back it up till you feel the burr break and then continue.If you go slow you can feel and not even have to look. use a cutting oil or lube ,WD40 works good. tis way every thing is lined up and kept perpendicular.I tap no.2 taps thru 1/4 " stock this way with out problems,and it's cheap........
 
most four fluted taps are not designed to be turned in without stopping and breaking the chip. Most are designed to be turned in one-half a turn then turned backed a quarter of a turn to break the chip which will make sure the flute doesn't plug the with the chip. Most taps that I have used in industry for tapping in a drill press were either three fluted or two fluted and they did not need to break the chip. You can also buy a spiral tap which will force the chip up and out of the hole or a gun tap which is used on straight through holes and it makes the chip go down and out the hole. There is also many taps which are coated with alloys which help chip removal, the best advice is to ask your supplier which tap is best suited to the application in which you are using it. Hope this helps.
 
most four fluted taps are not designed to be turned in without stopping and breaking the chip. Most are designed to be turned in one-half a turn then turned backed a quarter of a turn to break the chip which will make sure the flute doesn't plug the with the chip. Most taps that I have used in industry for tapping in a drill press were either three fluted or two fluted and they did not need to break the chip. You can also buy a spiral tap which will force the chip up and out of the hole or a gun tap which is used on straight through holes and it makes the chip go down and out the hole. There is also many taps which are coated with alloys which help chip removal, the best advice is to ask your supplier which tap is best suited to the application in which you are using it. Hope this helps.
 
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