Sharpeners..Spyderco or Lansky?

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JTR357

JTR357

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OK,I'm in looking for a new sharpening system.I've been using the same Arizona stone for years now & it's about time I get a new system.I've been sharpening basically free hand since I was about 12-13yrs old & I've been quite successful at it,but I'd like to get a system that allows different angles/edges like the two mentioned above.The reason for this being that I have a lot more of a variety of steels to sharpen..ie:154CM,S30V,D2,3V,etc.The old arizona isn't working too well especially on the harder steels.I'd like to experiment on putting a finer edge(15 degrees as opposed to the usual 20 degrees) on the harder steels & I can't do that by hand/eye.I'm not THAT good.;)I've read lots of good stuff about both the sharpmaker & lansky.I know I have to go with the diamond option.I have mostly tactical folders,& a few 4"-7"(blade) fixed blades.So what do you guys think as far as size,reliability,ease of use, & cost go between the two?Your feedback is appreciated.
 
I have a lansky, dont really care for it. I end up going freehand just because it's so much more convenient.

The sharp maker is basically freehand but the base holds the stones at an angle instead of you holding the knife at one.

If youre good @ freehand some nice BIG benchstones that will let you make a long even pass would be best IMO. I'm saving for some 11.5" diamond stones from DMT.
 
I have both systems (Lansky in diamond and stone, Spyderco Sharpmaker in ceramic)as well as various water stones, diamond plate, and oil stones, and prefer the Spyderco system for day to day sharpening. It is easy, quick, and convenient and effective.
 
I've had several different sharpening sysytems, Lansky included, and find myself coming back in short order to the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I had a set of the earlier diamond slide on's and when new these would cut very well. Now I just keep them sharp and don't let them so dull that they need to be recut to get a decent edge and the Sharpmaker does the best job of that I've found. Also the corners of the Sharpmaker stones are ideal for the new recurve blades that are hitting the market. Viva los Sharpmaker!:thumbup:
 
Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
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Thanks for the feedback guys:)Think I'm gonna go with the Lansky deluxe diamond system.Do you think $68 is about right?I'm also looking into getting a lg.(11"-12")sharpening stone for touch ups.:thumbup:
 
JTR357 said:
Thanks for the feedback guys:)Think I'm gonna go with the Lansky deluxe diamond system.Do you think $68 is about right?I'm also looking into getting a lg.(11"-12")sharpening stone for touch ups.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

Just curious...everyone recommended the Sharpmaker, but you decided on the Lansky. Why?
 
DoctaD said:
Just curious...everyone recommended the Sharpmaker, but you decided on the Lansky. Why?
Click to expand...

I liked the idea of the guide on the lansky.Plus I already have access to the lansky clamp for my bench.Thanks for the suggestions everyone.:thumbup:
 
On 2nd thought,I'm gonna get both.I can't choose between the two.Thanks again,for all your help.
 
db said:
LOL If I was picking between the Lansky, DMT and the Gatco systems the Gatco would be my 3rd choice.
Click to expand...

Why?

I have a GATCO Professional. I added the extra fine and ultimate finishing hones. I also added the extra coarse diamond.

I finish with strops loaded with red and white polishing compound.

The pluses of a GATCO versus the Lansky rod guided kits.

The GATCO will do 11°, 15°, 16°, 22°, 25°, and 30°. The Lansky will do 17°, 20°, 25°, and 30°.

The GATCO has longer and wider stones.

The GATCO's rods simply pull out from the stone holder and you are ready. The Lansky's have to be swung out and tightened with a set screw.

I believe that you have to reuse the rods or buy seperately if you buy a new stone with the Lansky. The GATCO's accessory stones come with rods.

The Lansky stuff seems to be more widely available. I have purchased GATCO stuff from Cabela's and GATCO.

I do not have any practical experience using a Lansky. The GATCO with the two finer stones and the stropping provides very sharp edges. I have sharpened every knife I have plus several for the guys at work. I have not had a knife other than a very narrow SAK that I could not sharpen.

I am very pleased with the GATCO. I have a three stone Arkansas set that I have trouble free handing with. I had zero problem with the GATCO right out of the box.
 
I've got both a Lansky and a Sharpmaker and use the latter almost exclusively. Sharpmaker is awesome for removing small amounts of steel but really shines when you touch up your knife once a week or so ( depending on how much you use and abuse of course) The Lansky however, is what I break out if I need to seriously rebevel an edge or remove a lot of steel for some reason. Not that it's easier to use by any means (I find the knife is constantly trying to wiggle out of the clamp) but the stones it comes with are much coarser than standard Sharpmaker stones. If you were to add the diamond sticks to your sharpmaker it should cover all the bases more evenly, but not having the diamond stones myself I can't say for sure.
 
JTR357 said:
Hard H20,Wow thanks for the detailed review on Gatco:thumbup:
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It was a copy from a similar thread. If you look back there are numerous threads about Spyderco vs Lansky vs GATCO vs DMT aligner vs Edge Pro vs ...

There should be no need for more posts on the subject of which sharpening system to choose. Most every aspect has been looked at and addressed. With the search feature disabled it is hard to look back however.

They all will work more or less. There are inumerable ways to sharpen a knife. I think people new to sharpening (like I was a very short while back) look at it as a mysterious process. Short of the carbide scrapers any one of the major systems will work if you take some time to practice and follow directions.

It is all about making two surfaces meet in a fine line. A knife is dull when the line is thick or rounded. You need to remove material to make them meet again. The goal is to remove as little as possible to achieve that edge. Once you achieve the edge the goal is to refine it. Once you have refined to meet your wants or needs then the goal is to maintain it. It is easier to maintain than to resharpen. Maintenance will extend the life of the edge and you will be removing less material thus extending the life of the blade.

From what I have read the Spyderco is a great tool for maintenance. It is not the best for reprofiling or sharpening a dull blade. It requires a blade have specific angles for it to work. I believe that you have two angles available. You are pretty much stuck with the proprietary sticks unless you rig something up.

The Lansky that was posted about will reprofile, sharpen, and (with the right stones) maintain. Maintenance is not as readily accomplished but you have four angles available. Again you are pretty stuck with the proprietary sticks unless you rig something up.

With the GATCO you can accomplish the same tasks as the Lansky. You have six angles at hand. You have only the GATCO stones to choose from.

With freehand sharpening you have infinite angles and you can use whatever stones you wish. You can reprofile, sharpen, and maintain an edge. You can sharpen any blade regardless of width, length or shape.

For me it is more of a budgetary thing versus how much I will use it. The GATCO is relatively inexpensive and easy to use. It will sharpen a dull blade and maintain a sharp one.

I personally do not want sharpening to become the hobby.
 
Does the Gatco offer this option:

http://theconsumerlink.com/product_...dMachiningTechnology&T1=TCL+WS4XX&navStart=0&


That's a 120 grit diamond stone, the same grit as the famous d8xx, and interrupted surface.

I don't know the first thing about the Gatco, but I do know that the DMT Aligner is very versatile. After you have used the angles provided, you can pull the angle selector rods out and flip them over for a new selection of angles. Also, if you want to get complicated, The DMT offers an infinite selection of angles in the allowed range that are acquired by simply tightening or loosening the clamp screw however I don't excercise this option as I want to know that I am going to the same angle every time. The Aligner has to its disposal the above listed xx coarse(found in the ski section of DMT), x coarse, coarse, fine, x-fine, and a ceramic stone.

Then there is the benchstone option. I used my Aligner to lower my bevel on my Endura to about 25 degrees inclusive using a d8 xx stone and then polished the job to a mirror finish with my small assortment of 6" diasharp benchstones. The job is as professional quality as a factory grind thanks to the aid of my Aligner. Of all the things you mentioned, the only drawback I have with my Aligner is I can't get any lower than the 25 degrees inclusive(12.5 degrees) and you stated the Gatco can go to 11.

I agree that the Gatco is probably better than Lansky, however the Aligner is a better engineered product, and I believe DMT stones to be the best on the market for this kind of sharpener. IMHO

I would have recommended the Aligner but JTR had already made his decision.
 
Nosetotail said:
Does the Gatco offer this option:

http://theconsumerlink.com/product_...dMachiningTechnology&T1=TCL+WS4XX&navStart=0&


That's a 120 grit diamond stone, the same grit as the famous d8xx, and interrupted surface.

I don't know the first thing about the Gatco, but I do know that the DMT Aligner is very versatile. After you have used the angles provided, you can pull the angle selector rods out and flip them over for a new selection of angles. Also, if you want to get complicated, The DMT offers an infinite selection of angles in the allowed range that are acquired by simply tightening or loosening the clamp screw however I don't excercise this option as I want to know that I am going to the same angle every time. The Aligner has to its disposal the above listed xx coarse(found in the ski section of DMT), x coarse, coarse, fine, x-fine, and a ceramic stone.

Then there is the benchstone option. I used my Aligner to lower my bevel on my Endura to about 25 degrees inclusive using a d8 xx stone and then polished the job to a mirror finish with my small assortment of 6" diasharp benchstones. The job is as professional quality as a factory grind thanks to the aid of my Aligner. Of all the things you mentioned, the only drawback I have with my Aligner is I can't get any lower than the 25 degrees inclusive(12.5 degrees) and you stated the Gatco can go to 11.

I agree that the Gatco is probably better than Lansky, however the Aligner is a better engineered product, and I believe DMT stones to be the best on the market for this kind of sharpener. IMHO

I would have recommended the Aligner but JTR had already made his decision.
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Can you use any 4" stone in the DMT Aligner?

I am partial to traditional stones so the lack of a DMT stone for the GATCO isn't a handicap for me. I purchased the extra coarse diamond from GATCO thinking it would cut quicker. I am not sure if I was doing something wrong but the extra coarse GATCO traditional stone works better for me.

A blade has to be a bit wide or I have to be creative in clamping the blade to be able to get down to the 11° but it can do it.

Like I said above every system will work when used properly. I happen to have purchased the GATCO and am very happy.

You do not here a lot of users of the aligner chiming in on these types of threads. Good to have a user of another system speak up.

If something works for me I stick with it. It would be interesting to try a different system but I will not spend the money just to try it when I am successful with the GATCO.
 
The standard Aligner stone holder takes any 4" whetstone that DMT makes. I had to take a chance on the ws4xx as it isn't sold by DMT for knives, however the Aligner holder claims to except any 4" DMT whetstone, and the ws4xx is a whetstone. I was very pleased when I got mine and it fit. I also have a their ceramic stone that fits the standard holder(it won't work in the magna holder), however mine had a defect in finishing that rendered it useless(it isn't even close to being flat), and I haven't gotten around to returning it to DMT.

The xxcoarse stone cuts like a son of a gun, and I won't count it too much of a loss if I wear it out. I can get another for under 20.00, and be more careful on my second one if I have to, but right now, I'm just inclined to see how much abuse this thing can take. It makes short work of grinding down a bevel, although I can do more work with my d8xx stone. I put the 4" xx in and throw my index finger over the rod to eliminate wobble, and then just go to town, not being afraid to wear the stone out. I have heard that you can't wear out diamonds, just pull them loose from the nickel, and as of right now I haven't seen any signs of this.

I havn't heard of using this stone on an EdgePro holder, but if I get an EdgePro, I will definately have a holder with one of these glued to it.
 
The human hand, at least here in Europe, cannot sharpen an edge with less then 3 degrees variation – and to reach down to three degrees needs a lot of experience of free hand sharpening.
(I have met a lot of people who say that they can sharpen a flat edge so that it is absolutely flat after the sharpening – but I have never seen it done – and many have tried to show it for me).

When you are sharpening by freehand, the edge will be slightly convex. Just check it out and you will se.

This gets consequences for knife users. You can touch up an edge in maintenance sharpening = you take away a very small amount of material from the edge and the knife is still “flat” – but you cannot do this 50 times, if you do, the edge will be convex.

It is similar to the water dripping on a stone, many drops, no stone left. Shall we discuss if the first drip takes anything from the stone away?

To make the edge flat again, you need support for the sharpening angle – and you need to take away a lot of material from the edge to get it flat again because you shall make a curve - flat.

So, in my world, I use a clamping system all the time, also for the maintenance sharpening because this is done in about 15 seconds –and it is worth it for me because every time I do it, it is a continuing of the first grinding / sharpening I did on this knife = the edge stays flat all the time.

For some people it is more handy to use the clamping system to get a straight edge and then use a hand hold sharpener to maintain the edge when they use their knife – but they must also understand that they, sooner or later, need to grind away the convex edge they are making by free hand sharpening.

If I use both methods, clamping system and freehand sharpening it gets some consequences. The first is the convex edge of cause, the second is that my knifes life will be short, of cause depending on how much I use my knife – and how I use my knife.

For me, a knife I use and sharpen by hand live about 4-5 years, then I have grinded away about 1/3 of the blade and it is time for a new belt knife.
When I use a clamping system, the knife lives about three times longer.

It is about the water dripping on the stone. Every drip takes away a little material from the stone. If I can sharpen my knife in that way that I take away as little material as possible every time I sharpen it – it will get a long life.

So, If I sharpen my knife before it gets dull – and in the correct sharpening angle – it gets a long life.

With clamping system you are using do not matter, they all work with the same principles - and you learn to use your system and what it can perform.

The question is not with clamping system you have – the question is how you are using the clamping system.

Thomas
 
I agree. You want to remove as little material as possible in sharpening and in maintenance. If you are freehanding you are going to remove more material than with a guided system. With a guided system you can match the angle and remove material parallel to the existing edge and stop when you have "moved" the edge back enough to allow both bevels to meet.
 
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