Sharpening a CRKT M-16Z

S

Spadeworx

Joined
Feb 28, 2001
Messages
24
I have just purchased my first knife, an M-16 zytel model with a partially serrated tanto blade, which is currently on its way to me. I am a newbie to the world of quality blades and would like some advice on what equipment and tecniques I should use to keep the blade sharp.

(Preferably any equipment should be available here in the UK!)

Thanks.
 
Let me say first...Welcome to the forums! Glad to have ya' here!

I am not sure if it is in the UK, but if you can get your hands on a Spyderco Sharpmaker, you will have what you need for good upkeep of your knife, and most any future knives you
purchase. Here is a pic, description, and basic pricing:

Sharpmaker

You will get a lot of good use and good sharp knives out of this. Also, it has a fairly low learning curve, as all you have to learn is how to hold the knife blade vertically.

------------------
Sean

If you find you must throw something at me, please make it a custom.

May your blade chip and shatter- DuneFremen fighting saying
 
Hey Spadeworx,

I'm going to second the vote for a Sharpmaker 204. I just got one from www.discountknives.com (great service, good price, used online secure server, had product in 7 days). I had previously used the Gatco system(similar to Lansky), and had never gotten shaving sharp results. In less than 1/2hour after receiving Sharpmaker, my G2 Endura was shaving sharp, and I then continued to sharpen scissors, kitchen knives, nail clippers, and a WOO neck knife. This thing is soooo easy to use, especially for me, a known sharpening moron. :-) You can sharpen anything with it.

Dave
 
Another vote for the Spyderco Sharpmaker! I got mine last week and put on a razor sharp edge on my CRKT M16-03 (Spear point non serrated) in a few moments. However if your on the cheap a good arkansas stone will sulfice.
 
Welcome to the forums, Spadeworx. I'll second (third, whatever) the Sharpmaker. It's very easy to use, and comes with an instructional video. It may cost more than that M16, but it'll be well worth it in the long run.
Coincidentally, my best friend just came back from vacation, and he bought a few CRKT knives to check out. He gave me a M16-02Z (the plain edge tanto, zytel handles, Aus-6 blade), and told me to "use it and abuse it, and see what you think". I ditched the pocket clip, cut off the flipper, and have been giving it a pretty good workout.
You need a good sharpener for this knife, because it simply does not hold an edge very long (Aus-6, remember?). However it does take a screaming sharp edge, and resharpens in just a minute or two. If you use the knife alot, you're going to have to sharpen it pretty often.
Very comfortable little knife (now that flipper met Dremel), but the Zytel can get a little slippery.
A small flathead screwdriver will tighten or remove the pivot pin, and you will need a T-8 torx driver if you want to disassemble the knife for cleaning. It's simple, and takes about a minute. The liners are not threaded, the screws all thread into the spacer-two screws on each side.
I use the Sharpmaker at 40 degrees included, which matches the factory angle. The knife came with a very good edge, which was popping hair after just a few strokes on the white stones.

P.S. If you take it apart, don't lose the washers that go on either side of the blade. The small one goes on the side with the lock.

[This message has been edited by OwenM (edited 03-01-2001).]
 
You cut off the flipper?
eek.gif

Why?
eek.gif


-IPR
 
chief,
Mine is one of the smaller M16s. Even though I don't have very large hands, the flipper was in the way-pinched my index finger, and didn't allow me to get a good grip on the knife. I did like the way it worked, and the fact that it serves as a guard to keep your finger from slipping onto the blade, but it had to go. Thinking about putting grooves where the flipper used to be, like the models that don't use the flipper have (My friend got himself the Al handled version with a single liner, and no flipper. I liked the way it felt in the hand much better. His has AUS-8, I think). Strange they have 3 different steels for that knife AUS-6 (Zytel), 8 (standard), and 118 (on the CF version).
 
Yet another vote for the Spydie Sharpmaker! I have had mine for 12 years (It was called a "Truangle" then!) Has served me well on MANY MANY blades!!! By the way, I can't imagine cutting the flipper off . . . it is the VERY reason I bought another one. My first was a m16-14mil and the next was an 03 with aluminum handles AND the flipper.(VERY hard to find!)
 
Spadeworx

Well met! I live in the UK as well and am a student! Also I have the same knife only mine is the plain edge model.

Depending on where you live, a Spyderco Sharpmaker 203/204 is the best bet. The 204 is the newer model and better for a couple of reasons. I have the 203 and find it very very easy to use. Even for a freehand sharpened like me the Sharpmaker makes a good job VERY easy to do.

Lets talk about the basics first. You know those big Pyramid things in Egypt? Well think of the tip/top of one as the edge on your knife. The sides are the side of your knife and the base/bottom of the Pyramid is the spine/top of your blade. With that in mind, the aim of the game is for both sides of your blade to be at the same angle. For referece most here consider the best all round angle to be 20 degrees for each side. That is EXACTLY what a Sharpmaker will give you each and every time. The 204 will also give you a 15 Degree on both sides, but forget about that for now.

Your knife will probably be near to that angle when you get it, so you aught to have no problems keeping it to that angle.

Firstly, how to understand if your knife is blunt. Stand under a light, and look down at the edge of the knife. More it back and forth. Can you see a white line or reflection from the edge? If so, then that means that part of the edge is dull (as a result of use). You will find the new knife will not (mostly, some ship with dull spots!) show this. Now the Steel in your knife is fair, but not great (heck its not an expensive knife, right!). However it is a GREAT steel to learn with as it is almost foolproof to sharpen.

When you are ready to sharpen your new knife. Put the Grey sticks into the Sharpmaker and use the flat sides. Run the blade down the sticks 8 times on one side and 8 on the other. Do it again with 4 each then 3 each...

Now put the white sticks into the Sharpmaker the same way. The White sticks will give you a better edge than the grey sticks.

Start with 5 on each side and keep going Untill you are doing 1 left, 1 right, 1 left, 1 right. Stop at this point and look at your edge. Are there any white spots visable under the bulb? If yes repeat with the white sticks from 5,4,3,2,1 as before. Look again. If it has still not worked, you will need to use the grey sticks till the blade shows no white or shiny spots on the edge. When you use the White sticks use a very gentle down push as the stick will do the work for you. The White stick is for finishing the job, not regrinding your edge.

Once you have got rid of the visable signs of a dull edge, do the following. Place a finger on the spine of the blade (the bit not sharp) move your finger down towards the edge. Be VERY careful here. Please understand what I am saying, you keep your finger on the knife, but you finger ~NEVER moves towards the edge and thus CAN NOT be CUT. Why do this? The reason is simple, just as your finger falls of the edge of the blade, did it feel a little rough? If so run that side over the sharpmaker with the white stones, till it feels nice and smooth. Use your thumb on the other side and do the same till both sides feel smooth. What this means is you now have as near a damit (without getting VERY technical) a perfect Pyramid with equal sides (symetrical). Getting this last bit right will improve your edge performance 200%. It is a bit dificult to explain, but if you re read my post a few times, I am sure you will pick it up. Please tell me if you want me to explain anything in more detail. I am sure I have made matters a bit confusing.

I will tell you the VERY easy way to sharpen Serrations later if you are interested.

Hope it helps

Welcome!

W.A.

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"To strive to seek to find and not to yield"
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[This message has been edited by The General (edited 03-01-2001).]
 
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