Sharpening... Backwards!!?

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Feb 5, 2009
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Ive been free hand sharpening for quite a while now but was taught to push the blade along the stone as if trying to take a slice off of it, with this technique Ive been able to get my knives reletivly sharp but for some reason they seem to dull VERY quickly. Is this a result of my sharpening style?

It seems that every other thread here on blade forums mentions working up a burr or trying a convex edge but I dont know how do do eather of those things and honestly dont want to waste alot of time and invest on something thats going to give minimal returns in wear resistance and sharpness. If i take extra time i can shave hairs (never been able to slice hairs though... THAT is crazy sharp and i doubt i will ever see one of my knives like that)

so what do you think, is sharpening by pulling the blade across the stone and working up a "burr" going to help me out or should I just stick to my old sharpening style and just touch the edge up more often?
 
You can form a burr when sharpening in either direction.

If your happy with the edge, who cares whether you get that "hair whittlin'" or "hair popping" sharp?

Unless you have a "premium steel", higher degrees of sharpness don't seem to last long beyound the initial brag in use.

.
 
I think working up a burr will help you out and it's worth the time to learn. I sharpen in both directions, scrubbing the steel against the stone until a burr is formed. Then flip the blade over and form a burr on the other side. Progress to a finer grit - same thing. I end with an abrasive impregnated strop to remove all traces of the burr.
 
You question is intreaging. More form the other things you mentioned then your basic quesiton about trailing edge or leading edge sharpening.

I agree about forming a burr. IMO you should always be working up a burr when sharpening, know what a burr is, know how to remove it and for sure do remove it. You can do that leading edge or trailing edge on a stone. With sandpaper or a strop you should only use trailing edge strokes. The only time you shouldn't get a burr is when doing a touch up or finishing like steeling or stropping where you are just rolling the micro edge back to straight.

Some folks, that are vary experienced, know how to read an edge, and know when a burr is about to form, and don't form burrs. They avoid ever getting one and then don't have to remove them. I believe you should form a burr. That is how you know when the two edges have met at a sharp point along the edge. Until you get a burr you haven't brought the two sides (edges) together and the knife is not sharp. If you don't get a burr the whole length of the edge the the edges haven't come together at some points so sections of the blade wont be sharp. If you don't know what a burr is you are not getting a consistent sharp edge and when it does get sharp it is just luck.

After you get a burr you have to remove it though.
It seems that every other thread here on blade forums mentions working up a burr or trying a convex edge but I dont know how do do eather of those things and honestly dont want to waste alot of time and invest on something thats going to give minimal returns in wear resistance and sharpness. If i take extra time i can shave hairs (never been able to slice hairs though... THAT is crazy sharp and i doubt i will ever see one of my knives like that)
I am not sure where you are going with this. Are you talking about not wanting to invest time or just money. You don't need a lot of equipment, but you may be setting yourself up for failure here if you are not willing to invest some time. You have come here, and are reading threads, so you must be interested in working through a problem and getting better. You are going to have to arm yourself with knowledge and try some different things to see what works (experience). Threads are good for getting pointers, but some serious study and practice on new techniques sounds like it is in order. There is a scientific way to approach this. Maybe you just want to know about leading and trailing edge sharpening and that's it. Are we wasting our time with more in depth discussions?

You have to learn how to read a blade and determine a few things. You don't need to invest a lot of money, or any more money it sounds like, except that you might need to add a leather strop. They are cheap and you can make one or use a piece of cardboard or leather belt.

You might need to educate yourself and invest some brain power and need to take an "I can do it" attitude. I am sure you can do it!

Some possibilities:

  1. It could be your knives are cheap soft steel as mentioned and they just don't hold an edge very well. You should be able to determine what kind of steel you have.
  2. It could also be that you still have remnants of a burr and are using the knife with a burr, cutting with the burr. This can be very sharp but very weak. The edge will roll over with moderate or light use like a razor blade.
  3. A third possibility is your are using too shallow (too acute) of an angle for the type of steel you have. Softer steels need steeper (more obtuse) of an angle to have any durability. You might be surprised how well a knife cuts with a steeper angle.
  4. In any case you might try steeping up the angle, adding a micro bevel with a steeper angle, or stropping which will slightly convex the edge having the same effect of giving a steeper angle at the micro edge. All of these techniques will also tend to remove any remaining burr.

What kind of knives are we talking about?

Do you know what a burr is and what it looks like? You may already be getting one, not know it, and are not removing it. If you aren't getting one you are not getting the knife sharp unless just by accident and then you probably are getting a burr.
If i take extra time i can shave hairs (never been able to slice hairs though...
Knowing what sharp is, having a plan (goals), and knowing how to get there is a lot more focused and productive then just spending more random time and finding that your knife is sharper. Purposely getting a burr should be part of that plan. You typically use coarser grits to rough in (reprofile) a blade and then use finer grits to polish the scratches from the coarser ones. Don't move on to finer grits until you have formed a burr with the coarser ones. If you only have one stone it will just take longer or won't be as polished depending on your grit, but untill you form a burr the knife is not as sharp as it could be.

At what approximate angle are you sharpening?

Do you use micro bevels? Adding a steeper angle on the edge of sharpening.

Do you strop or have a strop? Have you tried stropping?

What are you using to sharpen, stones, paper, etc, what (grits) do you have?

I suggest you read this . It is great reading if you want to learn more. Wrap your self around it. It is the best and most thorough tutorial covering theory, terminology, technique, and equipment I have seen. At least for free anyway.

Good luck.

Gary
 
wow gary that was really helpfull, I dont mind investing time into my knives (its a S30v benchmade mini rukus) if I know it will help, so this burr do you make one by just sharpening one side till the burr forms and then sharpen the otherside? do you sharpen one side, remove the burr and then sharpen the otherside, remove the burr and then go to a finer stone ( I only have one stone at the moment, its a cheap arkansaw stone from walmart =P ) I havent read the link you sent me but I have it open in another tab and will read it now

Thankyou again for the help

PS i dont have a strop but I will use a piece of card board like you mentioned
 
I would also suggest reading this http://mse.iastate.edu/fileadmin/www.mse.iastate.edu/static/files/verhoeven/KnifeShExps.pdf

One of the problems that you may be having is that your knife is S30V. S30V is very wear resistant and takes much longer than most carbon or stainless steels to sharpen. Another problem is you may not be taking the edge angle low enough or fine enough to see the cutting performance of S30V. My BM mini-rukus is at a very low angle, If you were to lay the knife on the thumb stud you would be close. I at first tried matching the the 20-22deg angle for the factory but it did not cut well and the edge retention was poor because once the sharp edge is gone all you have left is a thick bevel. Now that it is closer to 10deg and polished to 1 micron the edge retention is on par with what I have come to expect from S30V and aided by its exceptional blade geometry it cuts like a laser, literially.

You don't want to work on one side until you from a burr because you run the risk of creating some really odd angles. You want to work each side evenly until the sides meet in the center, when they meet the burr will form to the side not being sharpened. Try sets of 20 or 30 strokes then switch to the other side and repeat but with the stone you have it might take all weekend to sharpen that steel. Using cardboard without compound might not do much to it either. Diamond stones and compounds would be a big help and save you money in the long run.
 
Yes, read the link it covers most of this.

The burr forms when you reach the edge just from sharpening naturally. The more pressure and the more coarse the abrasive you use the bigger the burr will be so as it starts to form ease off the pressure, use very light strokes and the burr will probably drop off. If it doesn't on most steels I draw the knife along a piece of wood or cardboard in a cutting/slicing motion at a 90 degree angle (straight into the wood). This will remove the burr.

Go the the other side (the opposite edge) and start over. Even though that bevel is already at the edge the burr may not form right away because you may be sharpening at a different angle, hitting the shoulder, the edge may not be consistent, etc. So sharp both sides until a burr forms for each edge.

When moving to finer grits do the same thing again and form a burr on each side with each grit except for stropping and stealing.

With S30V the Vanadium in the steel makes a huge carbide structure and the steel is tough and abrasion resistant and the burr can be more of a problem. It can be sharpened with most abrasives, but it requires a slightly different technique to get really sharp and not have the remnants of a burr that will break off in use. I think it is best to leave the burr on and progress through finer and finer grits. The burr will just wag back and forth as you change sides and grits. As you get to the finer grits the burr will reduce down to one so small you will need a magnifying glass or loop to see it. You really need to finish with a strop to get the best results from that steel.

You need a fairly thick steep edge to support the carbides in that steel making it is a good candidate for a convex edge or a micro bevel. With thin shallow edges, especially when left unrefined from a diamond stone, it is more prone to micro chipping then some steels. It needs a fine polished finish to get the most out of it. Rough scratchy finishes like come from a medium diamond stone feel sharp but don't last very long. Finishing with something above 2500# and then stropping works best. Try to keep you edges terminating at more the 15° per side. Use a micro bevel or convex it to accomplish this.

If this is training you might want to start with a different knife. This steel can easily be sharpened on diamonds or carborundum just finish with finer stones and polish, so it is a little more demanding then some.

You never answered these questions? Knowing the answer to them might help.

At what approximate angle are you sharpening?

Do you use micro bevels? Adding a steeper angle on the edge of sharpening.

What are you using to sharpen, stones, paper, etc, what (grits) do you have?

Stropping on cardboard

For stropping with cardboard load it with some polish (Green Chromium Oxide, Flitz, Mothers Mag polish). Work it into (if wax) or spread it around (if paste of liquid) the cardboard. Lay the knife down flat on the cardboard (near the edge) and raise the spine while you move the edge into the cardboard. When the edge just starts to cut into the cardboard (or drag) you know you have found the edge. Hold this angle and the same pressure and use a trailing edge stroke. Stop and lay the spine back down flat on the cardboard and pick up the knife and do the same thing on the other side. This way you wont roll the edge over the strop and dull the edge when you are turning around.

Cardboard, soft wood, thick paper, the envelope your credit card bill came in with the bill still inside to make it thick and soft, all work well for stropping. The thing about leather is is lasts longer.

Gary
 
You need a fairly thick steep edge to support the carbides in that steel making it is a good candidate for a convex edge or a micro bevel. With thin shallow edges, especially when left unrefined from a diamond stone, it is more prone to micro chipping then some steels. It needs a fine polished finish to get the most out of it. Rough scratchy finishes like come from a medium diamond stone feel sharp but don't last very long. Finishing with something above 2500# and then stropping works best. Try to keep you edges terminating at more the 15° per side. Use a micro bevel or convex it to accomplish this.

Thin not thick, the carbides don't need any support as they are not huge. The structure of the steel is very fine and uniform, one of the reasons it gets so sharp. Hand sharpening gives enough of a natural convex to be good enough for pocket knives so no need to try and learn a new skill when your having trouble with the basics. A edge chipping because it is not refined is not true, a edge will chip because of lateral stress or because it hits a hard object but not because of the finish. 15deg is about the max I would do with S30V any higher and your not taking advantage of this high performance steel.
 
Knifenut comments are more accurate.Second, I have a lot of experience w/ Arkansas stone and none of then cuts/sharpens S30V easily.The blackest,hardest will but too slow.The others are correct in advising you to invest in other stones.However,diamond stones are expensive whereas you could get a real nice 2X8" Norton India stone AO w/coarse and fine side delivered for 22$.Then a leather strop w/compound for 15$ and your well on the way to a fantastic edge w/ the knowledge you have and more pratice.
Then later should you want a finer edge get a 3 micron ceramic stone 70$.This is totally all you'll need for ANY knife.DM
 
It is a beautiful journey as you learn to become edge proficient. You are in good hands bladehopper.
 
CJ, Yes! Many here tend to get too wound up for the end result.We all want edges like his.Not realizing its a journey not a quick fix.The guys here producing good edges have 20,30 and 40 yrs.sharpening experience.It didn't come fast for them either.Yes, that learning curve will be shortened because of their experience but still, the path must be traveled. Lay back alittle bit and enjoy the journey.Learning is difficult, so if your moving in the right direction be happy.You'll get there.DM
 
Another thing to consider imho...Sharpening a knife to an excellent edge is both useful and fulfilling...However, spending an inordinate amount of time attempting to achieve the "perfect" edge oftentimes has the effect of making you less inclined to actually use the knife now that you've gotten so close. (YMMV of course.)

(Kind of like some motorcycle riders who spend more time polishing their rides than actually getting them on the road for fear of undoing all that work. A good deal of the reason why mine can usually be found to be somewhat dirty. ;))
 
Threads like this are why I love this community. Some very thoughtful posts with slightly different ideas are presented and the Original Poster (OP) gets to decide how they want to proceed forward.

If I am hand sharpening a knife that is not a Scandi or convex ground knife, I use the Spyderco Sharpmaker. For a Scandi, I use Spyderco bench stones and a 4 sided diamond sharpener that I bought at Grizzly then strop on an old belt charged (colored) with Green rouge. For convex edges, I use a mouse pad and sand paper then a strop.

That being said, I also use a 2" x 72" belt grinder (at home only), a 1" x 30" belt sander (from Grizzly and Harbor Freight one each), and the wheels that richardj promotes (purchased from Grizzly) on a buffer (on a Sears buffer) for sharpening off site.
 
Cardboard, soft wood, thick paper, the envelope your credit card bill came in with the bill still inside to make it thick and soft, all work well for stropping. The thing about leather is is lasts longer.

Cool list of improvised strops, Gary. :thumbup:
 
This forum is beautiful.

I've spent a good many years basically 'self-teaching' myself how to sharpen my knives. It's taken a while to get to where I am, skill-wise, and I'm proud of the progress I've made thus far. Reading this thread, I think I've found the Mother Lode of sharpening expertise condensed into a few minutes of reading time. The posters here have eloquently articulated, in a few paragraphs, what I've spent years trying to figure out so far. It not only affirms some of the 'school-of-hard-knocks' sharpening lessons I've struggled through, but has also given me many new methods & strategies to consider from here on...

Thanks to all who contributed their time & expertise to this art.
 
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