Sharpening Cold Steel serrations

Jul 12, 1999
On their website, Cold Steel says they are working on a sharpener specifically designed for their tiny serrations. Does anyone know how close this sharpener is to comming out? I can get the plain portion of my Gunsite's blade beutifully sharp, but those tiny serrations are going to pose a problem. I know that the corners of the Spyderco Sharpmaker are not "sharp" enough to get into the CS serrations. Does anyone know however, if the Spyderco ProFile will fit? Or does anyone know the same about their ceramic files? I think the slip-shaped one would do the trick fine, but where can you get them? They don't seem to be as common as the Sharpmaker or the ProFile. I assume Spyderco's ceramic material is very high quality: Am I right? I hope the ProFile will work, because it looks like it would be a very versitile piece to own. Am I right about that? Thanks for any help.
I have a Sharpmaker and I can assure you that their ceramic is very high quality, just like the rest of their products. I can't help you with your other questions, i only have the sharpmaker.

Just because I talk to myself doesn't mean I'm crazy. What's wrong with getting a second opinion?
One stroke with a keyhole needle file in each seration should do it but I've never tried this. I just run my L Voyager over my Crock Sticks and sharpen the points which are usually the part of the edge that becomes dull. In a short time I'll have a regular straight edge and the problem will be over! -Brian
I have the Profile 700 (medium and fine), although I don't have any CS folders around, so I can't say how small the serrations are. But looking at the Profile700, I believe one of the edges here can be used to sharpen small serrations. I also have the Sharpmaker 204, and the Profile has a sharper edge on two sides than any of the Sharpmaker's angle.

Get yourself one of those big cheap electric kitchen sharpeners and grind those silly things off of there.

I've never attempted to sharpen a Cold Steel serrated blade, but I own one--a Vaquero Grande. I think Schlager might be on to something: if you can get the points sharp, which should be easy enough to do with the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker, you'll probably have your Cold Steel back in business. It seems self evident that if the peaks are so close together that you can't find a tool fine enough to fit between them, there won't be much hard material getting in there to dull the edge between the peaks when you're cutting stuff. This is just an untested theory on my part. What do the experts have to say? If I were ever trapped in an elevator with Lynn Thompson and needed a topic of conversation, this might be a good thing to ask him about.

David Rock

AKTI Member # A000846
"Never carry a knife shorter than your schnoz."
My old standard quick-and-dirty way to precisely match serrations is to use drill rod and Wet-or-Dry paper. Bring your knife to a good hardware store. Pick up a sheet of 400 grit paper and wander over to the drill rod or piano wire. Pick rod that is slightly smaller than the curve of your serrations. Put the rod in a single layer of paper and see if it fits the serrations. If not, go a little bigger or smaller on the rod. Buy what fits. You may also want some 240 grit paper.

Wet or Dry paper is silicon carbide and will cut any steel. The grit selection is wide. I usually just hold the paper on the rod, but you could use Dupont 77 spray andhesive on the back of small strips of the paper to glue it to the rod.
A lovely miniature ceramic file set is available from Starrett Tool. Can't find my old catalogue to give you a number and they aren't cheap. Do just fine on the fine Cold Steel serrations and I use them in my gunsmithing a lot. (That's actually what I bought them for and then found they would work for my knives)
I use a small EzLap pocket rod sharpener on my Vaquero. It`s the one that looks like a pen and goes for like $7. The rod has a flat on it that lets it get down into the micro serrations pretty well. After I do all the serrations with this I strop the back side on cardboard and then leather. It`s worked well enough for me so far. Marcus
If you know of anyone who has a high speed hand-piece(pneumatic) use a diamond needle-cone bit, I have done this often and it works well. It'll bring it back to it's origional sharpness or better. When it's done properly the serrations will have a wire edge which will come off with a little strapping on a canvas belt.

Curtis Wilson