Have you checked out the instructional videos on knives ship free? Bluntruth4u on YouTube has vids on how to take a beveled v grind to a convex grind. Hopefully that helps.
I did thank you. It helped.
Moose, not sure if you are using any black or green compound or just stroppin on plain leather. Typically a strop is to dress an already sharp blade. Some use a mousepad with different grit papers and then finish off with the strop. If my edge gets really dull, I will wrap some 600 grit around my strop, or even use a fine DMT, and then go to the compound and finish with plain.
Watch the vids over at KSF - they are very good.
Just take your time and maintain the angle. Start with the angle lower than you think you need to. The problem I had when I transitioned was that I was trying to start at the same angle I was used to when sharpening a V grind. Also, you want to stop your strokes before you reach the end of the strop, and lift the blade up.
I think you will really like the convex edge Hope this helps.
I have 4 strops different grits, I use a powerder Crystalon, Chromium Oxide, Jewlers Rouge and Emory Cloth 800gt. One is canvas, and 3 are leather. My canvas one is two sided, and is charged with the Cryst/JR setup. My leathers are backed on wood, my Canvas is a hook free standing. My Chromium Oxide is a 4" roughed leather and its the cat's meow for that polished edge.
My concern was in angle, as, what I read, a convex edge rounds from the profile grind to the center of the edge, I am unfamiliar with the angles that you speak of, as I see it as rounded, but like I said, I'm a newb when it comes to convex. I have always prefered a v edge on all my blades, Andy's is the first blade that I bought with a convex edge.
I have convexed a few edges, but they didn't work out for me, perhaps, because I done it wrong. Thank you for your info, it has certainly helped.
Color your edge with a marker before starting, so you can see where you are removing steel. I still do this every time. Really shortens your sharpening time.
If you use a soft substrate, like a mousepad, use very light pressure. I use leather to back my sandpaper. Its stiffer and you can use a bit more pressure. I start with 220 grit paper, and go to 400, then strop. Some guys go all the way to a mirror edge. I like mine toothy.
Ok, I got the leather, sandpaper, sharpie, and strop, now I just need the guts to do it. So far, I've used my canvas strop, Cryst/JR, and let out a little tension to allow a slight bow in the fabric, and it gets hair poppin sharp, but, I was thinking I might have to edge this thing soon, as I am using it daily for everything from wood to meat. No patina yet, as I am using 0000 steel wool to keep it shiny, and I'm polishing it with a paste/compound weekly, and I'M LOVIN' THE SHINY. I'll let it patina up soon, but for now, you can pull it out in the dark and reflect light, lol.
Thanks a ton guys, I'll get my nerve up and post about it after I've done it, I just don't want to screw up my Hunter, not that I can't fix it, I just don't want to have to.
Moose
