Sharpening pointers???

R

realitycheck

Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
313
Hey guys, im new to the forum. Im not a collector but I used to carry a knife everywhere I stopped carrying one cause I cut alot of cardboard boxes with it and it stayed dull all the time and I never was any good at getting them back sharp. So I want to start carrying a pocket knife again, so I need to sharpen it, and also start carrying my hunting knife while im hiking. So I went and bought a smith's tri-hone system. I've been reading the past couple days on the net and this site to try and learn how to do it right. So I tried it on my gerber pocket knife it sharpened some and I got rid of most of the glint while looking at the edge of the blade. It sticks a little bit on my fingernail, but is not sharp enough to shave the hairs on my hand. The trihone system came with a 23 degree angle guide so I started with that and used that as a reference point. Im kind of confused on once you get a burr on one side where to go from there. I would appreciate any help I can get. I know I really need practice but I would really like any info you cans give me so I can advance faster. Thanks guys. Nice to be here.
 
I use a different sharpening system and I'm not familiar with that one. However, the mechanics are still the same.

What you should do first, I think, is determine that you are using the correct angle on the edge of your knife. Too steep and you'll sharpen the shoulder - missing the edge. Too shallow, and you'll be sharpening just the edge and not enough of the edge grind.

You can use a black Sharpie marker to "paint" just the edge (both sides) of your knife. Then, a few swipes with your system and you can tell how much adjustment you need. At that point, wire edge or not, you'll start getting a nice, crisp edge.

I'd say start there for now.

Good luck
 
Im looking for grinding just the very edge off right? Where the two sides meet. I think I said that right.
 
Yes, right. Most knives have a primary grind. THis has nothing to do with the edge, it's just the first angle grind from the spine heading toward the edge. Then, at the bottom of the primary grind, there is the edge. On most knives, this is the shiny strip you see along the contour of the edge - usually about 1/16" to 1/8" wide. This is the edge you want to sharpen.

In order to make sure you're grinding this edge on your sharpener, you can color the edge with the Sharpie. When you take a couple of light swipes on both sides with your sharpener, the SHarpie marker will be removed where the hone contacts the edge. THen you can adjust your grind angle to try to hone the entire width of that "shiny" edge....both sides, of course.

THe goal would be to get both side of the edge to meet together at zero degrees. There is your sharp edge. AFTER honing this edge, you can also increase the angle 3 or 5 degrees which will put a secondary edge, or micro-bevel, there. That's entirely up to you. Alot of guys do that and so do I on some knives.

What kind of knife is this that you're sharpening?
 
Once you have a burr ground on one side that follows the entire length of the edge, turn the blade over and sharpen at the same angle, checking frequently for a burr. You only want to sharpen until you just get a burr the entire length of the edge, in other words, don't grind the burr any larger than you have to. Next, turn the blade over and make one stroke at the same angle to remove the burr. Alternate sides 6-8 times, one stroke each time, still at the same angle. Finally, increase your angle 3-4 degrees and drop to a finer grit stone. Alternate strokes, one stroke each side, 3-4 on each side with a very light pressure. This technique is called "double edging " and will produce amazing results when done correctly. I do a great deal of freehand sharpening and this is my personal techneque. It takes alot of practice to become profficent at freehand sharpening, but it is well worth the effort to learn. The result is sharper knives done quicker than with jigs or sharpening systems. There is an old saying that goes "If you don't know what it is for, call it a knife sharpener." There are simply too many gimics out there, and the age old art of freehand sharpening, as practiced by our fathers and grandfathers is nearly forgotten. Feel free to e-mail me with any questions, I'd be glad to share what I can. (smitty0331@msn.com)
 
Great description Smitty.

Another way I've found to remove the burr parallels yours except that I'll change the direction of the stroke from edge leading to spine leading while dropping to the next finer grit and alternating 3-4 strokes per side and keep the edge angle the same. I add a micro bevel afterwards by giving the edge a few swipes on each side of the blade on a ceramic benchstone. Your "double edging" is the addition of a secondary bevel which, in addition to removing the burr, strengthens the edge by putting more steel behind the edge reducing the chance of rolling or chipping the edge during hard use. Other wise its pretty much the same and just as effective I'm sure.

NJ
 
Guys thanks for the help alot. Smitty you might see me hitting you up by email. My email name is realitycheck also so, I might hit you up before I sharpen again next time.
 
Alright guys my good buddy smitty got me some guides. So I thought since I had some time to day I would try them out. I am sharpening a cheap gerber, I dont even know the name of it. Anyway I did do better than last time with them I got it to where it will slice paper if I draw it across the edge. Its still not sharp enough to shave the hair on my arms though. I need some tips I tried to strop it on some cardboard but it didnt help any. Im probably doing that wrong. I am using this tri-stone system, the last one on the right under bench stone sharpeners. http://www.smithabrasives.com/sa/pocket_chart.pdf

You guys got any more tips for me??
 
Sounds like your getting very close. The difference between slicing paper, but not shaving hair is, for me, a half dozen or so light strokes. I had trouble for a long time because on the fine hones I was useing to much pressure. The very last strokes are weight of knife only. Good luck.
 
Alright I tried that ljk, and i still could'nt get the little gerber shaving sharp. It would slice paper but not shave. I just got a new benchmade mini grip today and its went through the paper like slicing through water. I couldnt believe it. the gerber was no where near that sharp. So I dont know what im doing wrong. I tried to stop on cardboard but it actually made it duller so I screwed that up too. You guys have any more tips for me? Or do I need to explain more what im doing?
 
Dude I feel your pain, you must be slightly changing your angle or perhaps your not hitting the very edge towards the end. Its hard to say. Free hand sharping from dull to shaving took me a long long time to get right. Even now, some days, I can't quite get it, but I can always get there with the Sharpmaker. I learned on Spyderco's Sharpmaker first. Anyway don't give up your almost there. Its amazing how few people can really sharpen a blade and when you finely get it the feeling is incredible.
 
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