Sharpening Question

E

Empire_ian

Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
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I got a sharpening kit for christmas and I'm wondering if its the type of thing that would work on a kukiri. It's supposed to be for swords, though I am suspicious, because I know that swords sharpening is usually really expensive.

Could it be dangerous to use on a nice blade (well not that nice) like the one I have.

This is my first kukiri. It's actually a lower quality NKH brand import, and definitely is not up to the quality of HI in terms of pitting, imperfections, smeared finish etc, but I also don't want to ruin it. It's the British army type, I think its the same geometry and composition as the one HI sells.

I think the whetstones are 1000 and 3000 grain.

Link to the sorta phoney site that sells these things:
http://www.swordsofmight.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=252

In the case that it would work, what is your guys' advice about how to get the job done?

Currently saving up for a a nice Chiruwa Ang Khola from HI. :cool:

EDIT:

Oh yeah, my kukiri always seems smeared, Ive tried to polish it with a cleaning solution, and I've tried to oil it in the Japanese style, but neither of them are really satisfactory. Is it just the kind of thing that you should learn to deal with, or is there some way to fix it?

It seems like shiny things are always heartbreakers :( .
 
HI khuks are convex edged. Unless you can roll the edge on a whetstone (takes real talent), you'll be converting the edge to a V-edge with that whetstone system. It'll get sharp, it just won't be a convex edge any more. Most folks sharpen their HI's on a slack-belt sander or with padded sanding blocks & sandpaper.

That blade grease'll come off with a soft cloth & some elbow grease. It'll shine up.
 
Hiya Empire Ian,
"Link to the sorta phoney site that sells these things:
http://www.swordsofmight.com/index.a...ROD&ProdID=252"


I have had Nothing but Good luck working with Swords of Might... Fast shipping and very reasonable prices.
They just don't have HI's Blades!!!!
Doc
 
The name "Swords of Might" doesn't exactly radiate professionalism; however, I've heard/read nothing but good things of them.

Might be hard to cope with all the narrow curves of the khukuri on a large whetstone. I get the impression that the padded sanding block is the way to go (though, I've still got quite a bit of learning to do myself, at this point, so I'll refrain from giving bad advice).

-btw, I think I read something about using a cylindrical padded sanding block (not quite a block anymore at this point, though) to sharpen the curves of the khukuris. Does anyone have any experience with this? And, what grain-progression is suitable for sharpening a new khukuri (i.e. what is a common choice)?
 
So far, I've only used one of my khukries, a 16 1/2-inch Chiruwa AK that I bought used. It got pretty dull chopping maple limbs that broke off when Ike rolled through in September and then after the recent Winter ice storm. I've gotten pretty good results using a Lansky Lawn & Garden Sharpener (it's a long, sort of oval shaped coarse stone) and then finishing the edge with a crock stick. It's not razor sharp, but then it doesn't have to be.
 
FWIW, when I got my first HI khuk (BGRS) I tried to keep the convex edge, using foam blocks and sandpaper going from 400 up to 2000 grit. Lots of work and less-than-stellar results for me, but YMMV. So, I switched to what I know and do best which is the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Have had GREAT results using that rig on all my khuks. Admittedly, sharpening my 18" M-43 takes some serious forearm strength, but the results are a shaving sharp khukuri.
 
Depending on the condition of the edge you currently have... if its heavily blunted a slack belt sander with a very fine belt may be in order. But if it's still got some life left in it, a mousepad/stack of newspaper/or any lightly padded surface will do the trick, when paired with sandpaper. Get some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper from the hardware store, and clamp it down onto your padded surface to keep the paper from sliding off the pad. Sweep and drag the blade across the sand paper, I usually do 5-10 sweeps per side than flip the blade, I may do this cycle once, twice or for hours depending upon how dull the edge is. Strop it on a piece of leather, a sign it's done for me is when I can cleanly slice hanging xero paper, not newspaper, you could be there for days! Don't worry about the finish, sharpen it up, beat it up, stick it in the mud and talk dirty too it, my knives love it.:D

Edit:
Personally I prefer the convex edge, its easier to maintain. Once you can achieve a hair popping edge using the sandpaper method the blade should only need to be stropped after use from there on out. Another thing is that more steel is left behind a convexed edge, which in turn makes the edge a bit more stout/durable.
 
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I've been using 600 and 1500 grit sandpaper cut to size to fit a hard rubber school eraser.
It has enough firmness to drag along the edge without deforming over the edge and dulling the profile. My CAK still is not perfect, but it's a lot sharper than when I got it three months ago. I love it. There is a lot of debate on whether you sharpen with the edge or from spine to edge - try it each way and see what works best for you. I sharpen with the edge (from cho to tip) and it's much faster.

The straight part coming off the curve of the cho always seems to sharpen better. It's a combination of the straight profile, shallower bevel and softer steel.

Sharpening the harder 60+ belly is a pain. I still don't have a razor edge and it's taken a lot of hours up to this point to get it useable.

Your question on gunk or smearing on the blade: I would suggest a wipedown of denatured alcohol. I prep my carbon steel knives with this before cold bluing and it really cleans up the oil/grease.
 
MrMike said:
Your question on gunk or smearing on the blade: I would suggest a wipedown of denatured alcohol. I prep my carbon steel knives with this before cold bluing and it really cleans up the oil/grease.
Click to expand...

Windex might be a substitute if denatured alcohol is not immediately available too.
 
i can tell ya, this particular product and associated video would probably have the JSA forum screaming for blood.
 
My kukris came with a slight hollow grind on the final bevel if anything, certainly not convex.

I tried a convex on my 20" CAK. Works great on wood, not quite so great on real soft vegetation. Went to a scandi grind (straight bevel to the edge) on the final bevel -- using a Norton "puck", and now it works great on wood and soft vegetation.
 
I've been using a sanding sponge backed with 1000 grit sandpaper on my M-43 for a few weeks now, 5 minutes here and there. The blade is sharp, as sharp as it was after being sharpened by a couple at a local gun show, but not 'hair-popping sharp' yet. How do I finally get it 'that' sharp??
 
Ironhandjohn said:
I've been using a sanding sponge backed with 1000 grit sandpaper on my M-43 for a few weeks now, 5 minutes here and there. The blade is sharp, as sharp as it was after being sharpened by a couple at a local gun show, but not 'hair-popping sharp' yet. How do I finally get it 'that' sharp??
Click to expand...

Posted on 10-24-2008
kronckew said:
here's a zipped copy:

Linky to Koster's ultimate sharpening experience archive

it's a 37MB winzip file, unzip it into it's own folder somewhere, click the index.htm to start it in your default browser.

you may need to create an account/log in to download it if the traffic gets too big, for security reasons, or if my IP address changes (if i reboot my router, it might change) you may need a new link as it depends on my IP.
Click to expand...
 
GregS said:
Personally I prefer the convex edge, its easier to maintain. Once you can achieve a hair popping edge using the sandpaper method the blade should only need to be stropped after use from there on out.
Click to expand...

I've been "stropping" on a belt sander fitted with a 1x30" leather belt. Apply some of that green abrasive waxy stuff & make a few swipes on each side.

Just tested my R-10 for sharpness by shaving hair off my arm. Few minutes later I'm wondering "where is that blood coming from"? Didn't even feel that I had nicked myself.... that is sharp!
 
Ugly Duck said:
I've been "stropping" on a belt sander fitted with a 1x30" leather belt. Apply some of that green abrasive waxy stuff & make a few swipes on each side.

Just tested my R-10 for sharpness by shaving hair off my arm. Few minutes later I'm wondering "where is that blood coming from"? Didn't even feel that I had nicked myself.... that is sharp!
Click to expand...

We may have the same one, I have one of those 1x30 Lee Valley leather belts and their green compound, works great for convex edges.:thumbup: And asymetrical edges, I've got a lot of those to contend with as well. I think I will just admit it, I am not good with a stone.
 
What kind of grain sizes do you use on those belt sanders? I think I'll have to talk my father into buying one of those.
 
I have 180, 320, 500 & 1200 belts.... less than 2 bucks each at Lee Valley.

A leather belt charged with 0.5 micron grain abrasive for stropping.

A Harbor Freight belt sander costs about 30 bucks.
 
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