I am curious about what sharpeners (manual) you folks use? I am obsessive about a wicked sharp blade, but am constantly frustrated by chasing the "burr" from side to side. I have heard that stropping can cure this, but I don't want to pack a strope around with me. I have also read one of the posters speak of a convex edge. I have read some about that edge being useful, but how is edge retention and sharpness? I read that you can use a mouse pad and 1000 grit paper to get a convex edge??
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Sharpening "systems"
- Thread starter flynt69
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2009
- Messages
- 913
I use a burton tri stone system. It has ten inch stones submerged in oil. then i steel to finish up. I am a butcher so i do this several times a day with diferent knives, from six to ten inch at work, but i also use it for my edc and field blades....works great.............Drew
I sharpen all of my knives as if they were convex....and eventually the edge is.
Check out these videos....
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos
Check out these videos....
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/pages/Sharpening-Videos
I pack a self made two sided leather strop (coarse and smooth) loaded plus 3 bands of grit paper 1000, 1500 and 2000 and a rag with gun oil. All is very light very small so always in my pack. Hair popping sharpness with the rats is a stroke of leather away. I keep my knives clean and razor sharp and this kit completes my desire more than the lansky system. I recommend Derrick's two sided field strop system. You'll see stroping gives you the cleanest edge.
RAT Pack #75
KTA
RAT Pack #75
KTA
any recommendations on passes and pressure on the steel?
"Derrick's two sided field strop system" is this available for purchase or is this a do it yourself?
- Joined
- Jun 12, 2008
- Messages
- 4,542
I use a spyderco sharpmaker, easy to learn to use. It comes with an instructional DVD with Sal Glesser talking you through the steps.
These are great! thanks for the link!
We have three options that we sell. You can buy them, or let them give you ideas for making your own.
The field sharpening system http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Bark-River-Field-Sharpening-Kit-Field-Hone-Compound
A larger one (my favorite) http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Bark-River-Sharpening-Kit-Double-Sided-Hone-Compound-1
And a complete kit that comes in an OtterBox http://www.knivesshipfree.com/Complete-Sharpening-Kit-for-Field-or-Home-w-Yellow-OtterBox
A lot of people have written me to tell me that they took these ideas and improved on them--you can too. The main thing is, you need something with give as a backing and then you need appropriate and progressively fine abrasives.
If you maintain your knife, you may only need the green and black compounds. But for real sharpening, you will need some sand paper.
great stuff!
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2009
- Messages
- 913
On the coarse stone alternate sides every pass to keep your bevel. Use more pressure depending on how dull or if you are removing nics. I use lighter pressure on the medium and fine stones. I rarely use the coarse stone. use hardly any pressure on the steel so not to roll the edge from side to side. Always use as few passes as needed on all stones so not to eat your blade away. I am not saying this is the only way to do it but it works for me.........Drew
I love the Otter Box package! expect an order!
- Joined
- May 25, 2006
- Messages
- 3,982
SharpMaker 204, finally got one after years of freehanding and/or sending knives to the manufacturer and it's really easy to use after 4 or 5 knives to practice on.
D2's still a bear if you let it go dull, but for touchups the system is easy on most everything!
D2's still a bear if you let it go dull, but for touchups the system is easy on most everything!
- Joined
- Oct 8, 1998
- Messages
- 8,917
When you take the tip/edge of your fingernail and feel that burr on one side and then you stroke it to remove it and find that it has went over to the other side, if you are using a coarse or medium stone, you need to go right to a fine and also use less pressure as well. That should even it right up.
However, if it doesn't, just using a small piece of leather from an old belt that is about four inches long will do nicely. You place the burr side on it and scrape the burr off, basically. Works great and the knife will generally go from scraping hair and dead skin to cutting the hair off cleanly.
Just a piece of old belt about four inches long will do fine.
I have been using a Spyderco Sharpmaker since the mid-1990s and I usually don't even use the base any more. I just do it by eye with the stones or a diamond speed sleeve in my hand or use a set of Spyderco Pro-Filers (ceramic as well) or an EZE-LAP (small) Pen model or a Gatco Tri-Steps without using the preset angles on the base of that sharpener either. DMT stuff is excellent as well. A trip to the ER in Wise or Norton, Virginia, don't remember which, using a Lansky back around 1993 led me to buy the SharpMaker.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2009
- Messages
- 1,112
:thumbup:+1 on the SM. Then I strope my blade on the back of an old leather belt. Works great and gives sharp edge, easily takes care of that burr also (IMO).
I really want to learn how to convex blades as well. I got a Tramotina after seeing a thread on the WS&S section on how to profile the blade and convex it. I got the edge to where it's semi sharp, but I am unclear on if my angle is correct or not as I can not seem to get it shaving sharp.
I just got a Bravo-1 and want to sharpen it, but am afraid of screwing it up.
I just got a Bravo-1 and want to sharpen it, but am afraid of screwing it up.
