Sharpening Techniques

Joined
May 2, 2002
Messages
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Have I missed it or is there a forum dedicated to sharpening blades?
I could use advice from you experts out there on sharpening
particular knives of mine.
The problem du jour is my BM Emerson CQC7. The chisel grind is cut at a very high angle. My Gatco system does not go that high. Anyone
out there experienced with that blade?
Thanks,
Mike

PS Moderator, please move this thread if I failed to put it in the
right place.
 
Having been sharpening my own blades for the last 20 years I've come to notice a few things in regards to what you use to sharpen a knife. Diamond hones remove massive amounts of steel and sharpen a blade fast but even with the finest hone you will still need to finish your blade on a strop or ceramic hone to smooth out the edge. Always sharpen at the desired angle,(between 17-24 degrees, depending on the thickness of the blade) till you get a wire edge on one side, (the best way to feel for this is to slide your thumbnail from the spine side, or back of the blade towards the edge) when you encounter a wire edge it will feel like a little lip has formed where the wire edge has rolled over. Next sharpen the opposite side till you achieve the same result. Done on a Fine Diamond Hone, finish off by repeating the process using lighter pressure on each subsequent stroke and the wire edge will become smaller. When the wire edge is barely noticeable with your fingernail. Finish with a leather strop and stropping compound by applying a reasonable amount of force and dragging the blade backwards on the leather at a slightly less angle than you sharpened,(the leather will actually curl around the edge of the blade and wear off the wire edge) after a few strokes on the leather on both side you should have a finished edge. When the edge of the sharpened blade is rested on the smooth part of your thumbnail it will dig in, (bite into the nail with no additional pressure), Your knife should now be shaving sharp.

Diamonds are more aggressive and faster than wet stones or oilstones but will accomplish the same results with a smoother more polished edge, and depending on the grit of the stone may take a lot longer. The key either way is repetition, the more you perform the same task your brain starts memorizing the pathways through your body needed to accomplish this task. Eventually holding an angle, smoothness of stroke, all become second nature, and the task becomes easier. That’s why it always looks easier when someone else whose good at it does it.

My way is not the only way but it works for me, if you feel confident enough to attempt your own blades, start on a cheaper knife that your not afraid of ruining, and remember it’s easier to sharpen a knife that’s not dull, than to sharpen one that is. So don’t wait till your knife won’t even cut butter before you dress up that edge. LOL

PS as for my preference I prefer a diamond hone just because I think it's quicker, and more versatile I can accomplish the same thing with one hone by just varying pressure to the blade as I sharpen.
 
A search on "sharpening" on this forum will turn up a wealth of useful information. Emerson also has a useful video on sharpening their one-sided chisel grinds on its website. Have fun and keep the band aids handy;) .
 
You might want to check out Emerson Knives. They have some info on how to sharpen their knives. The only chisel grind knife I have sharpened is my CRKT stiff kiss. I just sharpened the ground side on my sharpmaker until I raised a burr and then gently passed one of the white/fine sharpmaker rods along the flat side to remove the burr. Seemed to work really well.
--Josh
 
There is very useful thread going on in the Busse forum right now, regarding maintenance of convex grinds. It's worth checking out.
 
I've also sharpened most of my own knives for years, but I have
sent several of my BM's back to the factory for re-sharpening in
the past. I've been kind of reluctant to sharpen expensive MT's
that I own and sometimes sending some models back is not an option.
Besides if it is an EDC, needs sharpening too often to send them
off anyway. I've just got to get aggressive with them, even if
they are worth more than $300.
I've read some sharpening techniques where you use coarse hone at
11 degrees, raise a burr, then switch to a fine hone at around 25
degrees to form a primary cutting surface.
Do you guys do that, or do you just try to approximate the factory
angle?


Mike
 
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