Sharpening with the bottom of a ceramic cup

[thermalwedgie]

I've had no previous experience with any kinds of sharpening before, but heard that you can sharpen knives with the unglazed bottom of a ceramic cup, so I gave it a try. I have a cup that seems to be on par with ultra fine ceramic stones, so I began to touch up the edge on my knives, including my Spydercos, which are known to be scary sharp out of the box, and I was able to achiev an edge very similar to or exceeding the factory edge on my spydercos. I was also able to repeat these results on all my knives, I was also able to keep a perfect angle when sharpening (freehand). Would this be an effective method of sharpening my knives, since i'm able to achieve a razor edge that is on par with spyderco's factory edges, or should I invest my money on some sort of system?
Thanks

 

[Mossyhorn]

You're better of using ceramic rods made for sharpening that are set at the correct angle. I know of guys using the top rounded edge of their truck window to touch up a hunting knife.

 

[Jason B.]

It seems you are comfortable with freehand so maybe a medium spyderco ceramic benchstone or for something smaller maybe a DMT diafold or fallkniven DC4.

 

[David Martin]

You can use a coffee cup but I think you'd get better results using the stone. DM

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

You're already ahead of the game. If you've been successful using a coffee cup free-hand, it's likely you'll do well with whichever tool or system you buy. The ceramics which are actually made for sharpening are likely a more consistent grit, and will therefore make for a more uniform finish. But, if the coffee cup is working for you, that at least confirms your technique is pretty good.

 

[Jakeboy]

A friend of mine showed me how he used the edge of a car window to sharpen a knife. He just ran the window down and used the top edge of the window.

 

[Bufford]

When I visit family I am often asked to do the BBQing and none of my family members other than my sister who runs the farm knows how to sharpen their kitchen knives and don't have a sharpener. I will take a dinner plate and run the knife up and down it a few times and come up with a reasonable working edge. Sometimes when I carve up a roast I end up using one of my own fixed blades I take with me.

 

[phillipsted]

My Grandmother sharpened her kitchen knives on the bottom of a crockery pot for 50+ years. Can't attest to the sharpness of the knives she got this way, but I still have several of her knives.

TedP

 

[thermalwedgie]

You're better of using ceramic rods made for sharpening that are set at the correct angle. I know of guys using the top rounded edge of their truck window to touch up a hunting knife.

Since I've already sharpened my spyderco (which comes out of the factory at with a 30° edge) o
N a cup, and it may have a created a bevel on the edge, will I be able to sharpen it on a Sharpmaker at the 30° degree angle slot and reset the bevel? And how do I tell if I've created a bevel?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Since I've already sharpened my spyderco (which comes out of the factory at with a 30° edge) o
N a cup, and it may have a created a bevel on the edge, will I be able to sharpen it on a Sharpmaker at the 30° degree angle slot and reset the bevel? And how do I tell if I've created a bevel?

You've already demonstrated, to yourself, that you can improve your edge freehand. If you want to use the Sharpmaker, that's fine. You can reset whatever bevel you've created otherwise, although it will likely take some extra time. But you don't necessarily have to rely on it's pre-set angles. Personally, if it were me, and I'd just learned that I can freehand a decent edge on the coffee cup, I'd try my hand doing the same, with the Sharpmaker's hones. The best thing about learning to freehand sharpen, is the 'feel' that comes with it. Once you have the feel for finding and holding the correct angle (to match your existing bevel), you no longer have to rely on any pre-set fixtures.

To see what (if any) bevel you've created thus far, get yourself a decent magnifier (at least 10X) and inspect the edge under very bright light. That's the best way, by far, to tell what's happening on your edge.

 

[thermalwedgie]

You've already demonstrated, to yourself, that you can improve your edge freehand. If you want to use the Sharpmaker, that's fine. You can reset whatever bevel you've created otherwise, although it will likely take some extra time. But you don't necessarily have to rely on it's pre-set angles. Personally, if it were me, and I'd just learned that I can freehand a decent edge on the coffee cup, I'd try my hand doing the same, with the Sharpmaker's hones. The best thing about learning to freehand sharpen, is the 'feel' that comes with it. Once you have the feel for finding and holding the correct angle (to match your existing bevel), you no longer have to rely on any pre-set fixtures.


To see what (if any) bevel you've created thus far, get yourself a decent magnifier (at least 10X) and inspect the edge under very bright light. That's the best way, by far, to tell what's happening on your edge.

Thanks. I was a bit worried I permanently damaged my edge. And now that I think about it, I might as well learn how to freehand, as it would probably be a good skill to have. I'm considering getting a Fallkniven DC4, or are there any other suggestions you have? And I also need a way to sharpen my serrations, any suggestions for that?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks. I was a bit worried I permanently damaged my edge. And now that I think about it, I might as well learn how to freehand, as it would probably be a good skill to have. I'm considering getting a Fallkniven DC4, or are there any other suggestions you have? And I also need a way to sharpen my serrations, any suggestions for that?

DC4 is good (I have one, and I like it). The ceramic on the DC4 feels quite coarse, compared to other ceramics (like Spyderco). Some people have been put off by it, because it feels so different. The upside to that coarseness is, it works very quickly and puts an aggressive edge on the blade, with some 'bite'. The key is, use VERY LIGHT pressure. Same applies for diamond hones, they work exceedingly well with very light pressure, and leaning into it too hard will actually be counter-productive.

DMT is also a safe bet, for anything diamond. Lots of options.

You can still use the corners of your Sharpmaker's rods, for your serrations (I would, if I already had them available to me). Unless you use your knife extremely hard, it shouldn't take much to touch them up. Again, very light pressure is always best. Especially so, when exerting against the very corner of the rods. Lots of pressure in a very small area, which can bend/chip your edge very easily. Feather-light is the way to go, in this case. You can still 'freehand' with them, too. Even if you leave them in the Sharpmaker's base. The key is in the 'feel', and seeing that the actual edge is making contact. For me, it helps greatly to orient the blade so the edge is upward (I draw the edge towards me), so I can actually see the edge making flush contact with the hone.

 

[thermalwedgie]

DC4 is good (I have one, and I like it). The ceramic on the DC4 feels quite coarse, compared to other ceramics (like Spyderco). Some people have been put off by it, because it feels so different. The upside to that coarseness is, it works very quickly and puts an aggressive edge on the blade, with some 'bite'. The key is, use VERY LIGHT pressure. Same applies for diamond hones, they work exceedingly well with very light pressure, and leaning into it too hard will actually be counter-productive.
DMT is also a safe bet, for anything diamond. Lots of options.

You can still use the corners of your Sharpmaker's rods, for your serrations (I would, if I already had them available to me). Unless you use your knife extremely hard, it shouldn't take much to touch them up. Again, very light pressure is always best. Especially so, when exerting against the very corner of the rods. Lots of pressure in a very small area, which can bend/chip your edge very easily. Feather-light is the way to go, in this case. You can still 'freehand' with them, too. Even if you leave them in the Sharpmaker's base. The key is in the 'feel', and seeing that the actual edge is making contact. For me, it helps greatly to orient the blade so the edge is upward (I draw the edge towards me), so I can actually see the edge making flush contact with the hone.

What about the DC3? I heard it's smoother than the dc4. But what the DC4, as long as I get a razor edge with it, it'll be good for me.

And I'm sorry if my earlier post was misleading. I don't own a sharpmaker, but i'm seriously considering it.

 

[jackknife]

Thermal, if you can put a very good edge on with just the bottom of a coffee cup, why would you ionvest money in a gizmo? That's like getting out of bed and walking, but then buying a set of crutches anyway. Not needed.

By sharpening on that cup, it shows you have very good feel for what you are doing, and it would be counter productive to go to a 'system' as they like to call it. I could see a system for someone who shows zero talent for freehand sharpening, but that is not you. Instead, why not go buy some nice diamond hones from either Eze-Lap or Diafold, and just keep honing that skill you have. That way you can sharpen a knife anywhere, anytime. And don't get to obsessive over angles. This is not rocket science. It won't make any difference if you get 22 degrees or 26 degrees. All of those generations of folks that went before us, our grandfathers and grandmothers, and their great grandfolks, never had a system, and they lived way more rural and harder lives than us. Yet granny and granddad always had a sharp knife. Many's the butcher knife that was sharpened on a stone or brick in the back steps then used to butcher a hog. Keep it simple and moble, and you'll be free. There's many people on this forum that would give a great deal to be able to take out a knife, and in a few minutes sharpen up no matter where you are. Pocket hone, coffee cup, car window, smooth side of a brick, all good.

Carl.

 

[Medic1210]

So lemme get this straight.... You have no prior experience with sharpening of any kind, yet on your first attempt, you're not only able to maintain "perfect angles freehand" to achieve equal to or better than factory razors edges on all your knives, you're able to do it using the rounded bottom of a ceramic mug? A ceramic mug that you compare to being on par with an UF Ceramic rod, which by admission you have no experience with? And then, after putting scary sharp razor edges on all your knives with this ceramic cup that's on par with a UF Ceramic rod, you're asking if this is an effective way to sharpen? I gotta admit I'm a bit skeptical, but if it's true, then you sure have an uncanny natural ability that many people don't have.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

What about the DC3? I heard it's smoother than the dc4. But what the DC4, as long as I get a razor edge with it, it'll be good for me.

And I'm sorry if my earlier post was misleading. I don't own a sharpmaker, but i'm seriously considering it.

OK. For some reason, when I'd replied to you earlier, there was a question mark bouncing around in my mind about that. But obviously, I missed it.

So far as I know, the DC3 is just the same as the DC4, just smaller. I've read some posts from others here on the Forum about what they perceived to be irregularities in the ceramic finish. Don't know if there are or were any 'smoother' ones out there. As with any sharpener, they'll gradually smooth out a bit over time, with use.

As jackknife has pointed out very eloquently, as is always the case in his posts :thumbup:, there are (and always have been) many, many ways to sharpen a knife. If you're considering buying something new, there are tons of options. I suspect, if you're already finding success with freehand, you may end up wanting more than what the Sharpmaker will give you. It's a great system for someone just starting out, and not yet comfortable with freehand. The downside of becoming reliant on it, is you're sort of stuck with either the 30 or 40 degree settings. You'll find that many (even most) knives you buy, won't even conform to that 'standard'. There's even variation among knives of the very same brand & model. As I mentioned, you can 'freehand' on the Sharpmaker, to whatever angle you wish, but it requires paying very close attention to making sure your edge is always flush with the hone, even if it means tilting the blade off of vertical, one way or the other. That's essentially what freehand is all about, anyway, so having a 'system' with preset angles might not satisfy you. If you think you'll like the Spyderco ceramics, they offer bench and pocket stones too.

So, bottom line, it's up to you as to what tool or system you try next.

 

[thermalwedgie]

OK. For some reason, when I'd replied to you earlier, there was a question mark bouncing around in my mind about that. But obviously, I missed it.

So far as I know, the DC3 is just the same as the DC4, just smaller. I've read some posts from others here on the Forum about what they perceived to be irregularities in the ceramic finish. Don't know if there are or were any 'smoother' ones out there. As with any sharpener, they'll gradually smooth out a bit over time, with use.

As jackknife has pointed out very eloquently, as is always the case in his posts :thumbup:, there are (and always have been) many, many ways to sharpen a knife. If you're considering buying something new, there are tons of options. I suspect, if you're already finding success with freehand, you may end up wanting more than what the Sharpmaker will give you. It's a great system for someone just starting out, and not yet comfortable with freehand. The downside of becoming reliant on it, is you're sort of stuck with either the 30 or 40 degree settings. You'll find that many (even most) knives you buy, won't even conform to that 'standard'. There's even variation among knives of the very same brand & model. As I mentioned, you can 'freehand' on the Sharpmaker, to whatever angle you wish, but it requires paying very close attention to making sure your edge is always flush with the hone, even if it means tilting the blade off of vertical, one way or the other. That's essentially what freehand is all about, anyway, so having a 'system' with preset angles might not satisfy you. If you think you'll like the Spyderco ceramics, they offer bench and pocket stones too.

So, bottom line, it's up to you as to what tool or system you try next.

Thanks for all your help and everybody elses help. I really appreciate it. I think i'm going to go with a DC4 or a Spyderco benchstone and one of the tapering rod sharpeners for serations. I think these tools will give me more options along the lines of sharpening angles. They will also give me a good chance to learn a valuable skill.

 

[eKretz]

Another note. Never worry about "permanently" damaging an edge on a steel blade. There's nothing you can do to a steel knife blade that can't be undone or repaired. It may cost you, (i.e. heat treat related stuff) but everything can be fixed in steel.