Short tang epoxied in micarta handles?

C

cutterman

Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Messages
122
Hi all

Has anyone ever had any issues with the short tang epoxied in micarta handles on their Randalls? They're my favorite user style and I love using them, but I don't really beat em much. I'm wondering if anyone out there has really put a Randall, with this handle construction style, to harsh outdoor or combat use and experienced any problems over time.

Thanks,

cutterman
 
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The short answer is that knives are intended for use in materials separation (cutting) - so no, tang related issues wouldn't be expected and seldom occur (from what I've seen, heard, and read on a daily basis for the last dozen years). If you expect to find yourself in need of a harsh outdoor or combat use where this might be a concern, I'd suggest you go with a full-tang model, now available in 5" to 7.5" blade lengths. If you still feel the added full-tang strength might not be sufficient, I'd recommend you get an axe... ;)
 
Thanks MP. One of my 16SF's or 14's, or full tang 1's would be my knife of choice in any serious situation, and an axe would be available also.
 
I am going to state my opinion here. I am in the minority of folks that has "beaten" a "full-Tang" Randall, a Model #14 to be exact. It now has a CDT with thick leather spacers I put on it myself.

To be honest, there are alot of men who have put their life and faith in this knife type. That being said, with prolonged beating I did see the micarta and epoxy give way and stress the brass tube such that the handle would pivot on the wrist thong tube. After time and continued use it became easier, light tapping of the clip point against a log put the handle back in place all the time.

I got tired of that and decided to oder a #14 with stacked leather, and optioned #14 finger grooves. After that I removed the full tang micarta handle, and installed a CDT, I am much happier with it now. Despite the rhetoric self important pontificator's will tell you about tang sizes the human body does not have the mechanical advantage against a tempered piece of 1/2 x 1/4 O-1 steel the length of which Randall uses in their knives.

RCBMJR (sp?) once said that the CDT option for the #14 Attack is the proper configuration for that blade. After some time, I agree with him,

attachment.php


The short answer is yes, I had issues. I was not being nice to the knife either though, and really was abusing it more than reasonable.
 
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Just to clear up my English without another edit, here is the nicely optioned #14 with CDT fresh out of the box. It is not my favorite for one personal quirk but it is a beautiful Randall.

Those are ambidextrous finger grooves.
attachment.php
 
if i am reading the original post correctly, it is about stick tang models which do not extend far enough through handle to get a buttcap attachment?....such as a 5-6 with black micarta teardrop handle such as on the Bradford Angier model?........

I have used heavily both such a 5-6 and a standard 1-6, and i mean heavily, not just cutting/slicing dirty military cargo net, straps, packing and rope, but also brush clearing to 3" diameter hardwood, building campfires, etc.....the 1-6 differs in having the long enough tang to get the buttcap.....both knives experienced a slight shearing of interior glue joint inside handle in the neighborhood of the spacers, to where there was a perceptible click/tick of play in that area....and totally a non-issue, caused by tang flex in highest stressed area during chopping/hacking...

Both style handles have the tang fully epoxied inside the handle, whether stacked leather or solid micarta, the tang is not smoothly polished, neither is the hole through the materials....even if complete seperation/shearing somehow happened, one would be very hard pressed to drag that tang back out of the hole, shearing is never symmetrical, and would be akin to dragging two hacksaw blades against each other....tangs are fully coated in epoxy and rust a virtual non-issue....the fix at the shop to stop the annoying sound/feel for those who object is to drill a hole and inject epoxy....

As for the full tang on the Model 14/15/16/17, the point of the design is to assure the tang does not break under harshest use, and a loose handle can always be repaired, and even cross-pinned if desired outside the shop, and i continue to buy full tangs for family members knowing that for them it will likely be THE most troublefree handle for a lifetime.....my personal favorite is my Astro with old-style cross-bolted handle on the full tang, but that is me.....any can fail and all can be repaired and likely free by shop if used within parameters of expected use of that particular model, so pick what you like and enjoy
 
Thanks mtngunr,

Your response is very informative and I believe right on. I haven't used mine as heavily as you have and all is tight as new. Thanks to you, and all, for your replies.

cutterman
 
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