Smoothing/loosening MOD CQD II action?

B

biogon

Joined
Jan 2, 2002
Messages
2,111
Help!

I finally got my MOD CQD Mark II (small), manual.

The action is really stiff and gritty. I don't need two hands to open it, so it hasn't gotten THAT tight yet, but it's still not nearly as easy or smooth as my Emerson or Benchmades. It's putting holes in my thumb, at least.

I did try the flip-the-pivot-pin trick (which is damn hard as the receiving end isn't anchored in!), but it doesn't seem to help. In fact, even when the pivot is loosened all the way, the action is still very tight. The pivot pin only tightens blade tension more than the handles and plunge lock already do (which is quite a bit).

When I hold the plunge lock button in, the action loosens quite a bit. In fact, it's so much better that I actually noticed that there IS a detent to hold the blade closed.

I've put on both White Lightning as well as Militec-1; both smooth things up a bit, but there's still a lot of tension and within a few hours, it tightens up again.

I tend to like my actions loosen enough to open easily, but not loose enough to flick open (or dangle around when open and not locked.)

Any ideas? Has anyone taken a small hex bolt to the CQD II? What size hex is it?

Does it reassemble easily, or is the spring-actuated plunge lock a pain? Would it help to clean off the operating surfaces/washers/scales?

Thanks!

-Jon
 
Heya Jon,
Just wanted to letcha know you're not the only one experiencing this issue with the CQD 2 I got one myself and the opening is kinda odd in that its opening is mediocre at best if I keep the pivot screw so loose that I'm afraid it'll come loose. In addition to that, the blade has a lot of "up and down/top to bottom" play. I took mine apart wondering if maybe it had a bunch of sand in it, or something, and didn't see anything unusual. I lubed it with a teflon lube before reassembling it, but it did very little.

-WARNING-WARNING-WARNING-REASSEMBLY IS A PAIN IN THE A$$!!!

I'd cursed up a blue storm by the time I had mine re-assembled. The plunge lock was a little annoying, but the major source of irritation was the secondary safety and it's tiny spring and bearing. Think I spent an hour putting the thing back together.

I used a T-10 and either a T-6 or a size larger torx to disassemble it. I'd also recommend doing it in a well lit area, with a hard surface floor with a white background (I used a paper plate) Have I mentioned that the parts are tiny and easy to lose? *L*

Also don't forget that we technically void our warranties when we do these things.

Another additional piece of info is that I contacted MOD for warranty work Thurs. and they were REALLY good to talk to. Very friendly, and easy to deal with. They didn't want the return authorization number, or money for return shipping. Said they put out the defective knife, and it's thier problem to get it back to me-I was pretty impressed by that. Inspite of the opening problems, and the blade play, I'm still awfully fond of my CQD, and I'm VERY eager to get the bugs worked out of it and have it returned.

Maybe you should consider the warranty route yourself? Especially if disassembly gets you as far as it got me (wasted time)

Good luck!
 
Welcome to BFC, Jon.

MOD manufactures their folders with some really tight manufacturing tolerances, and as such, the action can be a bit rough at first until it gets broken in (especially on the models with the black blade coating. This is a commonly reported problem here at BFC, and I experienced the same thing when my full size MOD CQD was new.

I wouldn't advise monkeying with the pivot screw initially. More likely than not, the roughness your feeling is a result of the plunge lock riding on the pivot end of the blade. Many folks have reported that a night or two spent in front of the T.V. working the blade back and forth over and over again, is the best remedy. This worked well for me, and the action on my CQD has been exceptionally smooth ever since.

One important note- in my experience the excessive "up and down/top to bottom" blade play that Runs with Scissors mentioned is not normal for MOD folders. If you're experiencing this problem as well I would recommend returning the folder to MOD and availing yourself of their outstanding customer service.
 
Runs With Scissors, Bronco:

Thanks for the great advice! (also, thank you for the welcome!)

I think I'll start with Bronco's advice first (since it means keeping my new baby at home ;) ) and just keep working at it. I did keep opening/closing it for about 15 minutes, as that's what's usually fixed other knives, but this one needs more work.

I think it -is- the plunge lock's pressure providing friction (as it smoothes up when I hold down the button) and it -is- a black-coated blade, too. Also, there's no vertical play at all, so perhaps it's not the same syndrome as Runs With Scissors' (augh)...

It's good to know this is normal behavior, and I'm glad to know if it doesn't improve in a few days, they have excellent customer service (like EKI, and unlike H&K...)

Thanks again, and I LOVE this forum!

-Jon
 
Welcome, biogon!

My CQD2 was quite stiff at first, also. I reversed the pivot pin and that helped a bit. Bronco's advice is right on, IMO. Just play with the knife for a few days and it should start to work it's way in. I'm sure that's a task that you will find not too offensive.:D
 
i am still conmsidering getting a markII, but i was dissapointed in thge gritty action of the linner locking MODs, so they get smoother? herm, how smooth do they get?

REKAT "smooth" ?
spydie lockback smooth?
BM linner lock smooth?
BM AXIS smooth?
 
Lizard,
I haven't owned any of the MOD liner lock models, but I think you'd be quite pleased with the smoothness of the action on a broken in CQD. I would rate the smoothness of the CQD about on par with the BM 710 Axis lock (once you've gotten past the initial hump upon opening). I'm just speculating here, but it seems that the design of the plunge lock doesn't require placing quite as much lateral pressure on the tang end of the blade (while the blade is in transit) as do many liner lock and frame lock designs. There is of course a period of time where the bottom of the plunge has to mate with the blade surface, but once you're beyond that things seem to smooth out nicely.
 
Bronco, Knifenerd,

You might have seen my other post, but y'all are dead on.

About 3 hours of solid playing over 4 days, and she's slicking up very nicely. Smooth action; no stuttering, but sufficient resistance that it's not sliding around.

Mmmmmm.... I like. Very nice!

A question: On the inside of the handle, do you know what those silvery metal circles are for?

Also, how have the "wingwalk" inserts held up? They feel -just- like grip tape (aka skateboard tape, sidewalk tape, shoe sole grip, or camera friction tape).

I've (ab)used this stuff before and after a while, it tends to wear down and get smoother as the pebbles detach from the adhesive.

Has this happened to anyone yet?

And Bronco, it's not that I truly abuse my knives... I'm just curious (and paranoid ;) )

Thanks!

-Jon

keywords: masters of defense, CQD, mark, mk, stealth
 
Jon:

I haven't had the insert material degrade on my CQDII after about 6 months of regular use.

The silver circles inside the handle I think just represent the way that the inserts are held on.

Glad you got the knife to smooth out. Good luck with it.:)
 
I was pretty ticked off when i first got my cqd II it was gritty and slow, i didn't take it apart i tried some oil that seemed to gum it up, after sitting in front of the tv with a few beers opening and working it around that it started to free it up after several hours it was fine i also had it's big brother but that never needed any work it was smooth as could be right from the start
 
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