Some help with my chisel grind?

Crayola

Crayola

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
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So I decided to make my father a marking knife for Christmas. The style looks like the one linked here:

http://www.fine-tools.com/G309003.htm

I have the knife blade ground out and I'll be sending it off to heat treat in, oh, 3 days. I was wondering how to do the finish grinding though? I am worried that I'll burn the blade after heat treat finishing the grind. The only thing I can think of is to use a sharpening stone and finish grinding down the bevel until I get a burr on the back side- I am going for a zero edge bevel, if possible.

Then I got a better idea: ask the experts here! Any suggestions?
 
I do quite a few chisel grinds and have no problem after heattreat.I take the edge down to about 1/32" and 220 grit before ht.Finish afterwards and cool blade after each pass.Dave:)
 
Thanks Dave!

Maybe I'll try it a bit... gotta jump in there and do it sometime.

I know that the grind is thin... less than 1/16" thick anyways... probably about 1/32". At least I have it to there just right! And I sanded the ebvel to 320 grit too.

I appreciate the help!
 
Neat little knife Karl!
I've never seen one of those before and been doing wood working for a hundred years. Man, I wish my Pop did something that used a knife, sure would make it easier to make him happy on present days!
 
Nice Karl. I've made more than a few with that style of grind. I've found the easiest way is to not grind with the edge perpendicular to the belt but parallel. It feels awkward at first, but doesn't take long to get used to. Just make sure you keep your body close to the sander and elbows locked into your sides. It makes a beautifully flat blade with a grind line you could cut yourself on. Using a new belt is crucial!!! With mine, I grind right to zero before heat treat, then hand sand to 600. After heat treating, a few swipes with some 320 and then buff out with 600. If you are in the Cochrane area anytime soon on a Saturday, let me know and i'll give you a demo.

Hugh
 
Thanks Mike! These knives are easy to blank out and so far have been fun to make. I had a "junk" piece of 440-C that is now being turned into 2 knives of this style. The handle will be different though!

Hugh: COOL! Parallel to the belt eh? I never would have thought of that!!! I have to come visit you sometime. I may be in Cow Town this saturday, but I don't think that I'll be able to come visit. :( Maybe I can make a special visit next semester?

kogatana rule!!!!!
 
Crayola, I made a kogatana recently after seeing one of Epsilon's posted and thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. I do all my grinding by hand, so heat isn't really an issue. I also do a differential heat treat on 1084 and I grind the blade all the way to a finished edge before quenching with no warping or cracking problems. Once I pulled the knife out of HT I clean it up with some 320 grit sandpaper and no problem. 440 steel may be a different story, though.
 
I make quite a few of these aside from doing others in chisel grounds also. Did you say 440 steel. I use O-1 carbon but it should be similar. on stainless steels, warpage should be no problem, so you should be able to take it to 99% final finish prior to heat treat. The only problem is that 440C has a lower tempering temperature and you do have a slightly increased risk of ruining the temper.

Even on O-1 steel, oil quenched, I leave the scale on and only remove what I can with steel wool for an original look. I use a belt grinder also but I find the most precise way to get clean cuts and bevels on such a knife is with a disc grinder. I take it up to 180 grit for the main bevel, hand finish the bevel to 600grit , then heat treat. The edge is cut with 180grit (use a clean disc) then hand honed to shaving sharp. I sometimes get warpage on chisel grounds but I corect this by tapering the tang rather than doing too much correction at the tip !

Good luck. Cheers.
 
Handy knife!
When I do make the occasional knife, last one was a chiseledge Tanto, 11 1/2" blade with zero bevel as well, extremely keen!

The way I finished the edge after back from HT, I clamped the blade to a piece of wood so that the edge was just past the edge of the wood, the wood ran along side of the blade. I took a long 1" square stick and strips of sandpaper to free hand work the edge down to the zero bevel area, also gave it a slight convex as well, then stropped off the burrs on the back side, rascal would tree top cut arm hair easily!

Highlight and paste this link...geocities doesn't allow to view out of their area...:(

http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Cabin/7306/redsting2.jpg

Good luck on that,
G2
 
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