Spyderco Salt 1?

G

GhOsT1321

Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
92
Any complaints on this knife?
Has anyone used this knife and found it to develop bladeplay?
How does this knife ocmpare to the Delica 4?

I have one other Spyderco and its riveted together like this one and after only 4 month of carry and light duty use it has vertical bladeplay
 
What do you mean vertical blade play? Do you mean when cutting, pressure on the blade causes it to move backwards?
 
Mine has been with me about a year as an EDC and used everyday in some way but no problems so far in that area. What is a down side is it's stays sharp for about 2 seconds and a pain to sharpen again....I am looking for something new i think, maybe s30v.
 
twod said:
Mine has been with me about a year as an EDC and used everyday in some way but no problems so far in that area. What is a down side is it's stays sharp for about 2 seconds and a pain to sharpen again....I am looking for something new i think, maybe s30v.
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On the contrary I find it's edge holding similar to AUS-8 and very easy to resharpen on my Spyderco Sharpmaker.
 
When it was new it easy took the hair off my arm. I use water stones and find it quick and easy to make my 1095 do the same thing but it takes a while to make my salt do that. should i be looking for a Spyderco Sharpmaker?
 
twod said:
When it was new it easy took the hair off my arm. I use water stones and find it quick and easy to make my 1095 do the same thing but it takes a while to make my salt do that. should i be looking for a Spyderco Sharpmaker?
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Sharpie the edge and make sure you're hitting it instead of just creating a back bevel. If you get good with stones you won't need the Sharpmaker except for the occasional touch up.
 
GhOsT1321 said:
yes, it wiggles when cutting
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That's not blade play, or to be more specific, it's intentional blade play. This has been beaten to a pulp, but it's normal and not defective. If you made the lock tight with no "wiggle" room you're increasing the amount of wear.

The key is that when open and locked, pressure on the spine doesn't cause any movement. Pressure on the cutting edge will actually tighten the lock up, and that's the "play" you're seeing.
 
Josh K said:
That's not blade play, or to be more specific, it's intentional blade play. This has been beaten to a pulp, but it's normal and not defective. If you made the lock tight with no "wiggle" room you're increasing the amount of wear.

The key is that when open and locked, pressure on the spine doesn't cause any movement. Pressure on the cutting edge will actually tighten the lock up, and that's the "play" you're seeing.
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thanks for the information, I'm assuming that blade play in any direction shouldn't be a problem with a Salt 1?
 
GhOsT1321 said:
thanks for the information, I'm assuming that blade play in any direction shouldn't be a problem with a Salt 1?
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With the pinned FRN you can expect a small amount of side to side play to develop over time with use. Other then that, I've always found them to be superb knives for the money. :thumbup: No play, crisp lockup, and a very thin profile that makes it a wonderful IWB knife.
 
I bought this knife, but I have not used it very much yet. It was my first spyderco too.

I did some light testing on paper and wood when it came out of the box.

It was not razor sharp at all which disapointed me, I like a knife to cut me just looking at it you know, but I wouldnt say it was completely dull.

It goes through paper just fine, but not wood. I am not an expert, but I would guess that the grind was not designed to go through wood since it plain sucks at it.

My biggest beef with this one is that the pivot point is not held together by any kind of screw -so you can never adjust it. It makes me feel like the knife needs to be babied, which is never good. You get a steel that will never rust, but a handle that will eventualy need to be tightened.

I think if the edge was re-profiled and if the pivot point was adjustable I would like it a lot more.
 
I "adjusted" my Salt with a hammer, just hold it steady over something solid such as a anvil, chunk of metal, etc and gently tap the rivet with a hammer, works wonders. I stress gently tapping because if you hit it hard it will go to far and the blade won't even open, you can't back up on this.
 
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