Spyderco sharpeners

Joined
Mar 15, 2005
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:confused: I wonder how the spyderco 204 sharpeners are supposed to sharpen Spyderco knives? I have a Caly ZDP, Native, and a Delica on order. I was using and old sharpmaker on my knives and they work great although they only have the 30 degree setting. My problem is, when I use it or the new one I just purchased with both 30 and 40 degrees, I only seem to be sharpening the last 1/32 in. of the blade. Just what is the angle that comes from the factory on the Spyderco knives? Looks like 20 deg. or less to me. Is there any way I can change the angle to match the factory bevel? Would it not be great to have the rods in an adjustable angle pivot with incremental markings. Then you could just set the angle to the knife you are sharpening and hold it straight up and go to town! Also the new triangle rods on the new Sharpmaker don't seem to cut near as well as the old one. Could that be because the corners are a little flattened from use, or does it take a little time to break them in. Are the diamond rods worth the price, cause the Native takes a long time to sharpen. Thanks.
 
papadb10 said:
Just what is the angle that comes from the factory on the Spyderco knives? Looks like 20 deg. or less to me. Is there any way I can change the angle to match the factory bevel?

I believe that Spyderco knives are factory sharpened to about 30 degrees (don't hold me to this), but touching them up on a 40 degree angle makes sharpening much easier with far less metal removal - the edge is also more durable, and it is still every bit as sharp in my experience. The 30 degree back bevel setting is for more aggressive shaping and is not frequently needed, though some individuals will sharpen their knives at this setting. Unless you are actually shaving with them, I think you will find 40 degrees quite usable for most purposes.

From the Spyderco forums:

sal said:
02-08-2005, 08:24 PM

sal
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Golden, Colorado USA
Posts: 2,423


...Regarding the sharpening, we use a fairly coarse belt and we do it by hand. Angle is about 30 degrees.

We have two guys in Golden that are really good and about a dozen in Seki that are also good. It is a skill that takes a while. We also have a Goniometer and a CATRA for constant testing...

sal

(Quoted from another forumite:
Since 30 deg per side doesn't make sense (that would be the angle you might sharpen an axe at not to mention the fact that the Sharpmaker offers settings for 30 and 40 deg included) I conclude that the 30 deg refer to the included angle, which would make it 15 deg. per side.)

The diamond rods are really for reprofiling only - if you need them, your edge is REALLY screwed up. :D I can't justify the price personally, though the extra fine stones are well worth it.

I hope this information helps, my friend!

--------
Hannibal
 
papadb10

Just a few points to add to the good doctor's. I think most Spyderco knives do coume out near 30 degrees. The ZDP Caly is definitely less than 30 degrees! A lot less! I have one and use the 30 degree rods though with excellent results though not as sharp as the factory.:( The ZDP Caly Jr is the sharpest knife I have seen out of the box. It is ok to sharpen at a higher angle than factory, lower angles would be futile. The factory bevel becomes a back bevel and 30 degrees gives a fairly long-lasting edge in both VG-10 and S30V. If you watch the video, Sal suggests to back-bevel at 30 and sharpen at 40 degrees.

I agree that a variable-angle base would be a very cool accessory for the sharpmaker. The pivoting holders would have to be joined by a gear and have an infallable mechanism to prevent creep during use.
 
I watched the Sharpmaker video again a few days ago, and it was interesting as always. In it, Sal Glesser says that to crack the surface of the triangle stones, you should rub the corners together a few times to break the surface and make it easier to sharpen your knives. It will happen eventually, but rubbing the stones together speeds up the process.

CG
 
I am a fiddler by nature and a lover of low honing angles. When I want to use my 204 to hone at a different angle I just put something under the center of the base and tilt the whole thing left and right as I work. For a slightly lower angle I use one of the brass guard rods as the fulcrum for my teeter-totter. For a much lower angle I use a pencil or one of the ceramic sharpening rods.

It works both ways. If I have reprofiled a blade using my belt sander and I want to cut the burr off I put a rod under my 204 base and tilt the rods while I hone on the less vertical rod. This gives me something like that 30-degree honing angle that the good doctor said that nobody wanted.
 
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