Stacked birch bark handles, observations and questions....

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x39

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Dec 27, 1999
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Hi guys, I'm making a traditional Scandinavian type knife with a stacked birch bark handle. Anybody else here done one? The surface of the bark seems to retain a "nap" regardless of how fine a sandpaper I use, can anybody recommend a way to "close" the surface? Maybe burnish it? In terms of new stuff I've learned, I would say the most important thing is to make sure you have enough bark from the same source to complete the job. I ran out about 2/3 of the way through, went into the woods to harvest more bark, and found the second batch of bark looks different than the first. Since I'm hobbyist making this for myself, it doesn't really matter, but for a pro looking to sell his work, it could be an issue. Thanks.
 
X39, I bought a video at the Finnish National museum of a puukko maker, making puukkos. He did not sand the birch barck, just cut it into squares and put it on to the tang of the puukko. He then used a hollow tube to pound the birch bark squares down, then peened the end of the tang. With another puukko he cut the birch bark squares to a rough shaped handle, then used a sander to finish the handle off. John
 
Thanks John, I also cut mine into squares, but I put epoxy on them and made a little jig to compress them until the glue cured, then peened the tang to hold a thin brass bolster on the end. My issue now is finishing the handle to shape. I'd like to be able to apply some kind of finish to it (other than urethane) that would result in sort of a semi-gloss natural look (if that makes any sense).
 
I just returned Bo Bergman's book on scandinavian style knife making. He has pretty detailed instructions on using birch bark for handles. I got my copy from the library. I didn't pay too much attention to this method of handle construction. I was looking for something else. Otherwise I might be able to offer some advice.
 
You need to seal the handle, now that it is shaped. The classic way is to soak it in Linseed oil for several weeks and then let it cure. This works, but many other sealers work as well and are faster. Try using a thinned sanding sealer like woodcarvers use, or use thin CA. Apply several coats, and sand them down, repeating and sanding as needed until all fibers and pores are sealed. Then sand smooth and buff lightly.

A trick for making stacked birch bark or similar handles is to make a jig for assembly.
You punch a 1/4" hole in each square, soak the bark to soften it, slip the squares on a piece of 1/4" wood dowel, and compress the stack with a wood clamp that has a hole drilled in each jaw.It is a good idea to put a 1/2" thick wooden block and a few layers of wax paper on each end of the stack to keep the handle from gluing to the clamp. Applying wax or white petroleum to the clamp is also smart. Let the bark dry under pressure for a week. Now,while still compressed, soak the stack with thin CA repeatedly until it will not absorb any more.This may take several days of soaking and letting absorb. Don't rush it and don't use accelerator. Take the assembly off the clamp, and rough sand to an oversize cylindrical handle shape, re-clamp and re-soak with CA. After the CA has had a few days to cure completely, drill out the dowel, shape the tang hole, and assemble on the knife. A final sealing with CA before the last sanding will leave a beautiful surface with all the birch bark grain character showing.

You can use a waxed, smooth, stainless steel rod instead of the dowel, and drive it out of the stack, but it can be a trick getting it out sometimes. The wooden dowel is easy to drill out, and works just fine.

I have used this same method to make a stacked handle for a wedding cake knife from cut up pieces of woman's great-grandmother's wedding dress, and another time used a pair of WW2 army boots to make a stacked leather handle for a knife the original wearer's great-grandson would take to the Mid-east.
It will work with any material that can be cut, stacked, and glued. Think - Yard sale elephant skin boots, old leather coats, exotic leather scraps,....let your imagination run wild. It is the side view of the stack that will be seen, so the current surface isn't an issue.

You can also make up a batch of handle blanks at one time, and leave the rough shaped cylinders on the dowels...ready for your next projects. This will greatly speed up making a batch of puuko's.

Using the same method with rectangular pieces of bark can provide the blocks for a classic puuko sheath.

The tool neded:
Every maker should get a large woodworking clamp ( the type with two screw handles) and modify it for gluing handles. First, disassemble the clamp, and cut a slot in the end of one jaw. The slot should be big enough to allow the ricaso of a hidden tang knife to sit in the slot. Next, drill a 3/8" hole opposite the slot. This will allow a stack of things to be compressed and/or glued up on the blade tang. The slot also is great for gluing up wood handles to the knife and clamping to allow a perfect ( no gaps) fit while the epoxy dries.
Now, drill another set of 3/8" holes just a bit back from the slot. These holes should align with each other. Use these to clamp up stack of things on a dowel or metal rod.
This clamp will become indispensible in making knives after you have it.
 
bladsmth said:
Every maker should get a large woodworking clamp ( the type with two screw handles) and modify it for gluing handles. First, disassemble the clamp, and cut a slot in the end of one jaw. The slot should be big enough to allow the ricaso of a hidden tang knife to sit in the slot. Next, drill a 3/8" hole opposite the slot. This will allow a stack of things to be compressed and/or glued up on the blade tang. The slot also is great for gluing up wood handles to the knife and clamping to allow a perfect ( no gaps) fit while the epoxy dries.
Now, drill another set of 3/8" holes just a bit back from the slot. These holes should align with each other. Use these to clamp up stack of things on a dowel or metal rod.
This clamp will become indispensible in making knives after you have it.
Click to expand...

:thumbup: Thats the winning tip of the day!! Thanks Stacy!!
 
Bladsmth, thank you very much for taking the time to write your very informative post. Some super information there! :thumbup: :)
 
Stacy, every time I come across one of your posts like the one above. I end up opening it as a single post and printing it, I will have enough to put an entire book together in no time! Thank you for all you do here...

I am having a hard time imagining the clamp set up you described, do you have a photo of it in use?
 
I also saw a maker use plumbing Teflon tape and Vaseline as an epoxy release agent to coat a rod so it could be disassembled later.
 
From what I understand, the grippy surface is one of the resons the material is used.
It stays grippy if wet or anything.

And Stacy, please keep us posted on your books. I'd love to read them.
 
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