Steel selection - What works best and what just doesn't work well in a using knife

Joined
Oct 14, 1998
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What good and bad feedback have you had with different steels used in "working" knives where the customer ended up with a knife that was not suited to the use intended?

The reason I ask is that I have been giving this issue some thought. Talonite for example is a popular material lately for people who have a desire to turn massive quantities of cardboard into confetti. However, if the edge is too thin it rolls over and performs poorly.

People, in general, use knives for a lot of things that would make a knife lover cringe. Things that come to mind include stripping wire, opening cans (oil cans, vegtable cans, etc.) and, prying things like paint cans. I assume things like this are where the Sebenza's with broken blades come from. Do you steer customers like this away from 420V/440V/etc. to things like A-2 and other tried and true "carbon" steels?

Thanks and Stay Sharp
wink.gif

Sid

[This message has been edited by Sid Post (edited 01-26-2000).]
 
Hi Sid,
I'll give you my experiences from the bladesmithing standpoint. Most of my "using" customers are of the "hard use" variety. Most have expressed disappointment with blades that where brittle and difficult to sharpen in the field. As a general rule, most of these types fall into the stainless category. That's the give and take of wanting stainless qualities......you will give up some durability. On the reverse side, durability comes at the cost of giving up stain resistance. It's a given fact that folks want the whole pie rather than a piece, so most that complain about the durability and sharpening issues I steer towards 5160 or 52100. Those who insist on stain resistance, I send to one of several diffent makers who work exclusively with stainless steels, and I know will give the customer the straight scoop on the pros and cons of the material(s) they use, as I have, with the materials I use. Reasonable care is the key. I make it a point to educate the customer on what I consider their responsibilies to be in the care of a blade that I have sold them. I think that's a big part of our job as knifemakers...........to educate. To simply sell a knife, without attempting that little bit of education, is (to me) short changing the customer.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey

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Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"


 
Hi Sid,
I'll give you my experiences from the bladesmithing standpoint. Most of my "using" customers are of the "hard use" variety. Most have expressed disappointment with blades that where brittle and difficult to sharpen in the field. As a general rule, most of these types fall into the stainless category. That's the give and take of wanting stainless qualities......you will give up some durability. On the reverse side, durability comes at the cost of giving up stain resistance. It's a given fact that folks want the whole pie rather than a piece, so most that complain about the durability and sharpening issues I steer towards 5160 or 52100. Those who insist on stain resistance, I send to one of several diffent makers who work exclusively with stainless steels, and I know will give the customer the straight scoop on the pros and cons of the material(s) they use, as I have, with the materials I use. Reasonable care is the key. I make it a point to educate the customer on what I consider their responsibilies to be in the care of a blade that I have sold them. I think that's a big part of our job as knifemakers...........to educate. To simply sell a knife, without attempting that little bit of education, is (to me) short changing the customer.
http://www.mtn-webtech.com/~caffrey

------------------
Ed Caffrey
"The Montana Bladesmith"


 
I agree with Ed on the education and useage
of the knives I sell and that's why I include
a sheet with the knives I put out "THE CARE
AND FEEDING OF GOSHAWK KNIVES"
I did use 5160 on several of the big knives
when I started out because I thought it was
tougher than 52100 but in the process of
experimenting I found I could make 52100
as tough as 5160 in all cases even on the
very big blades so I hardly use 5160 anymore
I'm still experimenting-- even with forging
some of the CPM varities with high vanadium.
I still am in the process of working different things with 52100. I like the
experimenting with steel almost as much as
making knives-- ok about 50% as much.

------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Hebrews 4:12-16
Psalm 91

 
Ed and goshawk
I agree with both of you on educating the customers on the care and usage of a knife. As a result I made a video that shows how to sharpen, when and how to oil and other tips of caring as well as show sharpening what types of stones etc. Then I show a bit of cutting. When the client buys a handmade knife he needs to know. He can view the tape over and over. Every knifemaker should have a tape of his own to give/sell the client.
fisk
 
I agree with Ed and the others about informing the customer, but I also think the customer has a responsibility to the maker when ordering a knife to be 100% candid about what the knife is expected to do.

For instance, if a customer says he is mainly interested in a stain free skinning knife a good choice might be ATS34 of CPM440V. If he then takes that knife and uses it to open oil drums he should not be surprised or hold it against the maker when the knife snaps like a twig.

Complete honesty is required of both the maker AND the buyer if satisfaction is to be obtained in a custom knife. As Ed says every one wants the whole pie. But right now that just isn't possible.

My .02 worth,
GaryB www.toptexknives.com/bradburn.htm
 
Jerry
I whole heartily agree about the video. It
REALLY helps people like me who are very
visual oriented. I've tried this route with
a couple of different people that were supposed to be "experts" and it was pitiful.


------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Hebrews 4:12-16
Psalm 91

 
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