Well, I am having tons of trouble with removing stock for my pattern. My pattern has curves and one circular section. I know part of the problem is that I don't know what type of steel I am working with. I got two pieces, 3/16" thick, 1 3/16" wide and about 30" long from a relative and he has no idea where they came from. At each end of the bar are holes approx. 1" in diameter. First ?-Is there a way to get the steel identified as to type? Second ?-I was thinking about trying my roto drill for stock removal. Upon looking at their website, they suggest an attachment called a "zip mate". There are a few metal cutting wheels made for this attachment. I guess they do not have drill bits that cut steel with their regular kit. Anyway, do any of you have experience with this tool and attachment that you use for stock removal? I am not looking for shortcuts but when I read about stock removal all it says is to remove the stock, then start with files/sanders/grinders. I am looking for other methods of stock removal and basically have power tools, files and and old refrig motor at my disposal. Again, I will put forth the effort in turning out as nice a piece as I can for my personal use and I know stock removal is a slow process. Any suggestions as to tools, blades(metal saw), grinder wheels, etc on stock removal methods will be appreciated.
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stock removal question
- Thread starter rhettfcr
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2000
- Messages
- 213
With regard to the steel piece you have. I would spark test it first. Use any kind of grinding wheel that will cause it to throw sparks. If the the sparks coming off the wheel fragment or explode soon after leaving the piece and there are lots of explosions from many sparks, you're carbon content is likely high enough to heat treat. If you have a piece of mild steel around do the same thing with it and you will see the difference in the spark patterns. The next step would be to harden a small piece of that meterial to see if it will get brittle. You will have to heat it to non-magnetic and quench. If it passes here you can anneal the remaining stock and save yourself alot of time and energy. Heat to non-magnetic and allow the material to cool slowly in ash, vermiculite or some other medium. The steel will work much easier after the annealing process.
I do have a roto-zip tool but have not used it for knife steel. Knowing the tool and the attributes of most steels, I doubt it is a viable option for profiling a blade, unless you go very slowly. That tool turns very high RPMs and will likely heat up the material, bit or blade very quickly. LOL. Hack saws, files or a cheap hard wheel grinder may be your initial answer. Hope this helps. T
I do have a roto-zip tool but have not used it for knife steel. Knowing the tool and the attributes of most steels, I doubt it is a viable option for profiling a blade, unless you go very slowly. That tool turns very high RPMs and will likely heat up the material, bit or blade very quickly. LOL. Hack saws, files or a cheap hard wheel grinder may be your initial answer. Hope this helps. T