Straight razor bandwagon jumper

G

gadgetgeek

Joined
May 19, 2007
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I decided a while ago that I wanted to switch from my Schick quatro to something that wouldn't plug after the second shave. Was at an antique shop today and picked up a DOVO that was in not great shape, and spent the afternoon bringing it back. Its got DOVO Special on the blade and a tortoise shell celluloid handle.

The edge was mostly rusted off, but between a lansky diamond (orange handle) my 1000grit artificial water stone and an 800grit ceramic from lee valley, I got the edge mostly back, there is one very tiny nick left, and the edge isn't a perfect arc, but I think it will do fine.

I'll be picking up a 8000grit ceramic and some compound from lee valley tomorrow, to finish the blade. I love the ceramic stone as it doesn't wear as the water stone does, and cuts about the same. I'm expecting the 8000 to be the only other one I need for this. I also like that the ceramic stones are durable, I found today that my water stone has a crack in it, so I'll only be able to use half at a time.


The hinge pin on the razor has rusted so it is possible to spread the scales and remove the blade. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a good way of fixing this, or should I just find a small rivet or something?

I can't wait to start using this thing, and finding other razors.
 
Ok, so first shave with the new blade, and I'm hooked!
Lessons learned:
Needed to be sharper, the pull was similar to my quattro with 50% done blades, and since I move slower with the straight, it was less comfortable.
I did get an adequate shave otherwise, Using Cromwell and Cruthers Shave Oil. I figured that since it worked well with both mach 3 and quattro razors, it should work well. when I tested it with the mach 3 against can foam, it was just as good.
I'll be working on the honing more, and then change one variable at a time. I try some soap, and if it does markedly better I'll switch, but I fee the shave oil is good enough for now.
 
Hoping you took and will post some before and after pics. As for the razor, I'm a wetshaver, but definitely not ready to try and jump the straight razor hurdle yet.
 
forgot to do before pis of the blade, but I'll try to remember to borrow my GFs camera and post the aftermath. I'm sure that this isn't the last one I'm going to do, so I'll be sure to post the next find.
 
I'm thinking that I'll have to take some days off and get a better balm. Owwwwwww. But at least I can, and still get a decent shave, unlike a cartridge that only works with a little stubble.

cheeks are fine, but the chin and lower neck are causing grief. I think its technique that is mostly to blame. The blade is getting better, looking for leather to replace cardboard, and I got a brush and soap, which helps. I just have to lather sections because this soap doesn't hold lather for very long. Rocky Mountain soapworks.
Still only one pass shaving but the result is comparable to my old method, so at least I'm not loosing much, It is also more enjoyable. I'm feeling the twinges of a new syndrome though, I'll fight it as long as I can, but I may have made a bad, and started another expensive hobby.

On the upside, looking for razors at antique stores counts as a date, lucky me.
 
I tried using a straight and realized that as a diabetic, I couldn't risk cutting my face as I learned (bigger cuts heal slowly and itch like crazy) so I had to go back to DE razors.

If you're not familiar with him, Mantic59 has a series of great videos on Youtube about wetshaving. This video includes a section featuring Joel, the owner of badgerandblade.com demonstrating straight razor techniques. Note the caveat about the tension on the strop, it was not as tightly stretched as he normally does it. Maybe it can help you along as you get used to straight shaving.

[youtube]78QqnrJtvg4[/youtube]
 
Thanks for the info. one the one hand its fun to figure these things out on my own, and at the same time frustrating that everyone has a different opinion. but one thing at a time.
 
Ok, quick question on sharpening. what am I looking at? to clarify, right now my edge is smooth under 60x magnification, and I can find even brush-like scratches if the light is going the right direction. There are other scratches not perpendicular to the edge visible at other times, but they are pretty random and I'm assuming left over form courser grits. This is after 8000x ceramic and Lee Valley veritas green honing compound on paper.

the scratches match on the edge and the wear part of the spine.

since the other tests are so subjective, I'm wondering if I'm even in the ballpark, or if I need to strop the ever living piss out of this blade yet.

FYI it will catch my arm hair within 1mm of skin, won't hang cut head hair, but will hang cut beard hair.

I'm trying to figure out where my skill stops and the razor begins. I'm assuming that I still suck at shaving and the razor is way better than me, but I'd like to be sure.

quick plug for JASON brand natural aftershave, seemed to work really well for me this morning after a sub-par shave, main base is aloe, lots of other good stuff as well.
 
Since you are going from rust to shaving, you might want to think about having it sent away... (i think classicshaving.com does it) to a pro who will get it good to go. I believe the angles are different and I have heard anticdotaly that its much much harder to get a straight as sharp as I knife. Then you can practice getting back to that level...

It will be tough to learn how to use a straight properly if you dont know if your straight is as sharp and even as it should be... so much else to have to worry about!

CO biggelow at bath and body works is a GREAT cream, and nivea makes a (suprisingly) great after shave balm. You may want to pick up a styptic pencil or alum block from your local drug store if you havent already...
 
I see your point, but given how many hours I've sunk into it, and how fine the edge looks to me under magnification, I'm just looking for some confirmation that I'm on the right track. maybe I'm missing something, but given my tendency to break rules and do things for myself, I don't see how having it done for me will help me.
I don't mean to offend at all, but part of this whole exercise was doing it all myself.
 
Straight razor place and it's stickies are very helpful, and I found a few flaws in my technique of doing things. razor is way sharper now, thanks to learning about proper levels of strop dressing, less being more. this mornings shave went super. still on one pass wit touch ups as I only need that much, and I still need to get my face and nerves used to this whole idea.

as for all of the rules I'm breaking,
My hones are not lapped, and I feel no desire to attempt to lap my ceramic stones.
I have no leather strop, just athletic tape on cardboard, one pasted and one not.

I figure I'm doing pretty well, considering. I'm enjoying learning this "gentleman's" skill, and it feels so very badass. although Maybe I shouldn't have fed my addiction to sharp shiny things. oh well.
 
I've been using a cardboard paddle strop covered with cotton athletic tape (one side pasted, one not, and a new leather belt that I've roughed the surface of. Seems to work, I'm sure that other methods are better, but cost is a factor at the moment, so I'm adapting what I already have for my knives.
 
stropping is VERY important

be careful because a bad stropping can ruin a good honing.

get rid of all the scratches from coarser grit

run some tape on the spine
electrical tape is best

strop carefully

I think cigar ash makes a VERYVERYVERY extra fine paste if you don't have anything else that fine
 
also

while looking for things to use as pasted strops I've found that cedar shims
(if you are the construction sort) are nice.

mostly flat
soft
easy to round edges
(plus I had a big box of them) :cool:

try some ash paste on something like that

go hang out at straightrazorplace.com
 
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