Surface Grinding Talonite!! #%!?#!!

T

tom mayo

Joined
Jan 27, 1999
Messages
6,277
I have talked on the phone to Kit about this on several occasions...and its getting better, but I was wondering if anyone has any input from a different angle. He glues it to a big piece of surface ground steel with BLACK superglue (expensive stuff!) and uses a special Norton wheel. I am working on it and was curious is any of you machinists types (NEIL??) have any tips for us surfboard makers!!
Thanks..
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http://www.mayoknives.com
John 1:14
Love is Stronger than Death!
 
picked up the small taiwanese model from a friend cheap......but thats not the question!
 
Hey Tom,
I've had some success with double stick carpet tape (the real tacky/strong kind!), only thing to be careful of is to take small cuts (.0005" or less) and dont use coolant unless you find it getting too hot- in my experience both the heat and coolant tend to break down the adhesive. The other thing I tried and had success with when I did try coolant was to take a razor and trim away the excess tape around the talonite and use pieces of thinner surface ground steel butted up to either side of the talonite to act as backup in case the tape lets go.
Oh- and the wheel that I was using was a white aluminum oxide wheel, medium hard bond, basically the same as you'd use for hard tool steel, hope that helps
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Rich
 
Tom,
I would imagine you will get 10 or 15 different ways of doing it and I'm here to tell you, in the years I have been working Stellite, the way I told you is the only one that has sucessfully worked. Lotsa coolant and very little cut. The heat is the big culprit. Turn it on a 45 degree angle and put the fluid to it.
Good luck.
Who was that that asked about a magnet? Buahhaaaaaa
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Same here Tom
Glue BUT use a belt grinder on your surface grinder . Works better than a wheel!


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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
MADD MAXX !

[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 02-20-2001).]
 
:
Tom I have read long ago where some shops were using a vacumn chuck to hold non magnetic tool steels.
But they were very expensive then and I have no idea of what they would run now.

And just to throw this out for supposein'... How about a fixture with sharp dovetails to put pressure on the top side of the material, shorter than the grinding dimension?

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>>>>---Yvsa-G@WebTV.net---->®

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
Ok.......I will continue the mind numbing experiment until I can no longer take it and become KNIFE UNIBOMBER...... so be nice to me
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Tom,

How much material do you wish to remove? If your answer is not that much go back to the old fashioned way....Surface plate....sandpaper....elbow grease. Not much fun but, it'll get the job done! Or if your design will allow drill a couple of countersunk holes and bolt the bugger to some flat (precision ground) steel. Good Luck. Hope it helps.
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A real cut up one blade at a time!


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One Riot, One Ranger
 
Thanks for the advice eric...but I am in the business of making knives......Talonite is EXTREMELY wear resistant.... I could spend all day doing it like that....not an option.
 
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