Tiger striped temperline?

X

XxBOSSMANxX

Joined
Jan 3, 2002
Messages
28
This is the first blade I`ve ground from 1095,I have up until now used files and rasps as blade stock,I wanted to get my grinds down pat before I started buying bar stock.
Anyhoo,I like to put a wavy temperline in some of my blades using furnace cement as a heat sink,I also sometimes put the blade in a solution of phoshoric acid to get a nice dark matte finish.
When I use this process on the file(W-2) blades,the whole blade comes out a nice dark grey,with the temperline just a bit lighter grey,and I was very satisfied with the results.
Well look what happened with the 1095...................
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I dont know about you but I think it looks pretty cool,I`m going to send a picture of this to my customer and see if he agrees,it certainly does illustrate the hardness zones well.
The blade was ground to 320 grit and then sandblasted before the phosphoric acid bath.
Bossman
 
Now that is just to outragiously COOL!!!!!
I have been wanting to try the lay tempering any suggestions you could throw my way about using the furnace cement as the heat sink would be appriceated.I am using 5160 and Damascus mostly,Don't figure I will come up with any that looks as cool as yours though.
Bruce
 
Misnomer.

Whatever material is used for Yakiba heat treating, the material is not to prevent the steel from getting hot (heat sinking). It is to keep it hot during the quench. You want the covered areas to cool as slowly as possible. By keeping the quenching fluid away from the area and using the clay as a insulator you are hardening the edge but annealing the spine.
 
R.W.,yes I guess you are right,I`m using the clay for the opposite effect as a heat sink,I guess we could call it a heat haven????
Bruce,the process is pretty simple,just coat the blade with a watered down wash of furnace cement(a little thinner than a milkshake),mix up another batch of cement with a bit less water to the consistency of cake frosting(why do I always use food analogies?)then use a toothpick or a broom straw to make little tapering ribs going down from the spine to the edge,stopping about 3/8" from the edge,and load a bit on the spine rather thickly,let the clay harden up for at least 12 hours,then heat,quench and temper in the usual fasion.If you are going to polish the blade,an etch in a weak ferric chloride solution will sometimes make the hamon a bit more noticeable.

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use red devil brand furnace cement,any hardware store should have it

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This is how it should look before heading out to the fire.

Bossman
 
Thanks,I was wanting to make sure that the furnace cement was done the same way as the clay,which it sounds like it is.Cool,I have some of it in the shop already so I guess when everything gets cranked back up i will give this a try..
Bruce
 
Hey Bossman, that really is a nice effect. And it fixes a problem I've been having with my heat treating of large blades. That furnace cement trick should help the blade hold heat longer for an edge quench. Why didn't I think of that!!?? Thanks for the hot tip.

Also, you did a great job on that blade old buddy. I really like the shape/style. And the recurve is excellent. Well done.
 
Here`s the finished blade,what do you think,also being the newbie that I am,I`m not too sure about this......
What should I charge for a knife like this??????????
I dont have my name established by any means,but I`m doing the best I can to make a good quality blade,I dont plan on making a living making knives right now,but some extra cash in my pocket would make me smile.I don`t want to sell myself short,but I`m always puzzled when someone asks "how much for one like that?"
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Thanx for the help,
Bossman
 
well at the 320 grit stage the temperline was loud and proud,no ferric chloride needed to make it visible,I think I`m going to like making knives from 10-series steels.The person I`m making this for wanted a matte finish so thats what I went with.
Bossman
 
Hey Bossman, that blade looks excellent. The shiny brass bolster and pommel is what glares at me. What kind of handle is that anyway? That looks really cool. I would try a pebbled finish on the brass if you can work it out. Even a hammer finish with a small jewelers ball pein hammer would look good and compliment the blade and handle material. If it was me, I'd ask at least $175 for a knife like that. And $225 with a sheath if you work with leather. If you don't, learn. It's worth the effort. Very satisfying to make a sheath for the knives you create. You're doing well Bossman. Like I said, just try to match your blade finish to your bolster and pommel finish. Muted with muted. Shiny with shiny. Know what I mean? But, that is a beautiful knife and don't let anybody tell you any different. In time that shiny brass will develop a patina that will almost match the blade. What do you think old buddy? How do you like it? That's really what matters. You should be proud. I am.
 
Thanks,Max,yes I`m going to mask off the blade with duct tape and sand blast the brass,the handle is black 550 para cord,one layer sraight wrapped,the second layer cris-crossed kinda japanese style.
 
Ya all be nice now......that is my knife you are talking about and a damn fine one it is.

I don't make them but I will tell you your boards are very interesting and intriguing.....as well as informative.

I hope you don't mind a lurker that just collects stuff, information and at times passes it on.

Bossman......Awesome knife.

Karsten
 
Osborn,
I used plain jane vegetable oil,heated to 130 degrees,in an ammo can,quenched edge first.
Here`s the finished blade,I was`nt goint to send karsten a pic of it till he recieved it,maybe he wont look here till after then.......
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Thanks for the compliments guys,
Bossman
 
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