Tighten a scabbard?

Joined
Feb 21, 2001
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I love my Chiruwa AK but would like to make it a little more secure in the scabbard. Any tips or tricks that anyone can share?
Thanks,
Steve Ferguson
 
The easiest is to glue a thin piece of leather inside the scabbard, at a point that will hold the bolster just a bit more snugly. The trick is to place it so that it adds pressure to one side only, and does not interfere with the blade on the draw, and does not put pressure on the spine, forcing the edge farther into the joining between the slabs. I have experimented with one scabbard (the cause of a UBDOTD), trying to glue a welt into the "edge side". I skived a leather strip, triangular in cross-section, the length of the edge, and glued it "flat side" up, down the edge-side. The strip was dense leather, and heavily waxed, like latigo. I still think the idea might have worked with something more cut-resistant (nylon strip ?), but so far the blade has eaten it like it was Khukuri Kandy. The wood slabs on some scabbards appear to be glued together before the leather is stretched over them, and some are simply held together by the tight leather as it shrinks into place. If a "snugging patch" puts too much pressure on the blade, there is a possibility that this can open the halves on the edge side enough to expose the leather to the edge when it is drawn. I'm still trying to dope out a method of reliably running a bead of epoxy down the joining of the slabs, on the edge side of the scabbard. The only thing I need is an epoxy that runs through a tube, dries to a cut-resistant hardness, and can be controlled around the blind corner of the bend in the scabbard. I'll post when the patents are verified :rolleyes:
 
"The only thing I need is an epoxy that runs through a tube, dries to a cut-resistant hardness, and can be controlled around the blind corner of the bend in the scabbard."

Epoxy certainly would be cut resistant. Have you experimented with the better wood glues? I think they're getting better/harder than before (...now sandable?)? And they're spouts could be outfitted with a length of flexible aquarium hose for easy dispensing of the bead?
 
I watched the dentist make my temporary bridge and he's got some kind of stuff that does exactly what you want, Wal. Talk to your dentist. The stuff is probably only $100 per ounce -- has to be for what he charges.
 
Uncle, why don't YOU call YOUR dentist, and ask him for the commercial name of the stuff he used. He already has your money, and I won't have to disturb mine (who is much too busy tort...er...saving the fangs of some other unfortunate slob). I try to avoid dentists....and train wrecks, earthquakes and PO'd hornets' nests :p
 
Originally posted by Walosi
The easiest is to glue a thin piece of leather inside the scabbard, at a point that will hold the bolster just a bit more snugly.

Thanks man, that did the trick. Not only did it grip the bolster, it grips the blade at about the widest part coming out. Even if it jars loose at the bolster, it gets firm again half-way out. Not enough to split the wooden scabbard, just firm. I used a piece of leather belting, and split it with my pocket knife.

Thanks again,

Steve Ferguson:D
 
I suggested something, and it WORKED?? LOCK THE DOORS....THE SKY IS FALLING :eek:
 
Originally posted by Walosi
I suggested something, and it WORKED?? LOCK THE DOORS....THE SKY IS FALLING :eek:

You mean you had me try this on MY NEW CHIRUWA AK and you havn't done it before!:eek: :eek: I can't believe that you would have me experiment with my BRAND NEW KHUK!


:D Just kidding! :p

Thanks again,
Steve
 
I'd seen it suggested, so I figgered "whaddahey" :D Nope, I only suggest from experience (good, bad or ugly). Glad it worked. One advantage of a simple fix (especially if you saved the other piece of belt) is that you can quickly slice off the original and replace it, if it compresses and the fit gets loose again. If humidity (or Murphy) causes it to fall off, no biggie - just upgrade the glue.
 
Keep it simple. That's why I like the wire wrap fix so much. Costs a dollar and will last 100 years. And it you do a half way decent job it actually looks pretty neat.
 
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