Tips for a beginner?

Joined
Jun 23, 2002
Messages
15
Hello everyone, I am a long time admirer of custom knives as well as a collector. I am playing with the idea of making my own. I beleive I have done considerable research and am considering purchasing a Grizzly Industries 2x72 buffer/grinder. I just have to get the little woman to let me have an advance on my allowance. It seems to be one of the most affordable in the 2x72 configuration (seems like the most popular belt size?). My first attempt will likely be a full tang drop point hunting type knife (about 8" overall). I am planning to use either O-1 or 1095 steel probably 1/8" thickness. Does this setup and material sound like a reasonable proposition? I have already let you guys talk me out of the cheapo grinder so any other startup advice will be greatly appreciated. I am planning to have the blade heat treated (maybe texas knife). I have done handles on pre-finished blades before so I dont see a problem with that.Thanks in advance for the help and I apologize for the long post, John.
 
Just my opinion, but I would forgo the grizzly and get a Coote. A much better beginning knifemakers grinder, and hardly any more $$. Plus you don't have to modify the heck out of it to make it work right.
You do have to supply the motor, but 1-11/2 HP AC motors can be found at good prices. If you really want to go "high zoot capri", you can get a variable speed motor and control.
http://www.cootebeltgrinder.com/
:)
Forgot my manners, welcome to the forums, enjoy.:D
 
Welcome John!

Once you start making knives you will be in trouble! It is a most addictive hobby:D

I hate to disagree with mike (who probably knows a whole lot more than I do about knifemaking), but I have a grizzly grinder and I really don't see anything wrong with it. It is the first piece of real shop equipment I ever bought. I think that it is a good piece of equipment for the price. I have never modified anything on it other than removing the tool rest cause I never use it.

I looked at a coote grinder but decided to go with the grizzly because I didn't have to mess with attaching a motor for extra money, and I don't know squat about wiring or electricity. That is the same reason I bought my first propane forge instead of making my own, everyone says that you can build them way cheaper than buying, but I have found that you have to have the skills needed to build one as well as equipment that I didn't have. I also didn't want to waste the time, or deal with the frustration of making power tools and gas appliances when I really wanted to make knives.

I'm sure that those Coote grinders are very nice, but the grizzly ain't bad at all if you decide to go that way. Just my two cents:)

Chuck
 
Well her`s my $.02.
Yes alot of people heve the grizz an like them
an alot of people don`t . I started with a Sears
2x42($200) You can get belts for the Sears from
Supergrit at a much better price.

Now with that said an knowing what I know now
I would get the Coot you`ll be better off in the
long run . But if you can save up the the money
then go with one of the KMG-1 grinders

Good luck Bubba
 
Big problem with the Grizzly, the motor shaft is the contact wheel mount. If all you are doing is flat grinding, fine, but if you want to hollow grind, when you grind towards the left, you hit the motor with your hand, or the blade. That ain't right.
There are many tutorials by various folks showing how they re engineered the Grizzly to work right, for knifemaking. A person shouldn't have to do that.
---------------------
Edited for spalling!
 
I gotta go with the coote also but for another reason. If you like knifemaking and stay with it, you have a much better machine. If you don't the coote is easier to sell without vasoline.:eek:
 
Originally posted by chromecrow
I am planning to use either O-1 or 1095 steel probably 1/8" thickness. Does this setup and material sound like a reasonable proposition? I have already let you guys talk me out of the cheapo grinder so any other startup advice will be greatly appreciated. I am planning to have the blade heat treated (maybe texas knife).

John,
Texas Knifemaker's supply, along with Paul Bos, and K&G only heat treat "air hardened" steel. O-1 and 1095 take an oil quench. Some of the air hardened steels are 440C, 440V, RWL34, ATS34, 154CM, D2, A2, Cruwear, Vascowear, CPM-3V and so on.

There are folks like Howard Clark and Gerome Weinard out there that will heat treat O-1 and 1095.

By the way, get the Coote.

C Wilkins
 
Thanks for all the great input on the grinder. I looked at the coote and it looks like a well built unit. I may have to rethink. As for the choice of steel to begin with, I would prefer to use D-2 but was afraid that it might be difficult for a newcomer to work. Would anyone recommend either D-2 or A-2 for a first project? What would you choose? Thanks again, John.
 
I have been making knives for nearly 20 years. I am still using a Speed Cut 2X48 as the primary machine. You can do this with a file, sand paper and patients. If you are in it for the long run, buy a 2X72, it will give you better belt diversity.

I agree the grizzly motor gets in the way, have no knowlege about the coote. The KMG1 will be my next purchase. Find something that fits your current need and abilty. You can always off load your beginning tools to the next guy who has dilutions of granduer. I wish you well. Terry
 
Hey Chromecow, Terry had a thought there, if you really want to make a knife you could go at it with a hacksaw, files and paper. That's what I did with my first several knives. As far as the Grizzly goes, you can't go wrong by buying higher quality whenever you can and I think most would agree the Coote is higher quality. That said, the Grizzly gives you a powerful machine you can plug right in and have a buffer set up also. The main drawback with the Grizzly, besides the motor being in the way as Mike pointed out, is it's speed. It runs at around 3600 rpm and that's a difficult speed to use finer grit belts at with control. With the Coote you can use a pully set up and a slower motor.

Since you will be sending your blades out for heat treating I would start with a well known stainless steel like ATS-34 or 440C. D2 makes an excellent blade just make sure the stock you get is fully annealed or you'll never be able to work or drill it.

Though I have a Pro-Cut 2"x72" I still recomend making knives with files, but then there is something about the rythm of draw filing that I like. (I have friends who equally detest filing as much as I like it.:D )
 
Yes it takes a littler longer but it`s not that bad.
I made my first 4 or 5 with files an I`m glad I
did. Even with two grinders I use files every day.
 
I've been using a Coote for about 4 years and still like it. It was ready to go out of the box, with the addition of motor and pullys. I'm still hopeing for a deal on a VS motor.
Still trying, Lynn
 
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