Tips to avoid fraudulent sellers of antiques on ebay

[Bill Marsh]

Excuse me for being off topic, but I think that this is important. This is not mine, but I am here to pass it on:

Here are some tips to avoid fraudulent sellers of fake antiques on eBay. Any one or two of these items does not immediately brand an item a fake. But the more red flags raised, the more caution that you should use with that seller:

1. There is no reserve price (Genuine articles are expensive, so sellers must protect their investment by establishing a minimum price).

2. The seller provides photos which are blurry, too small, lack close-ups, and/or are too few (So you cannot see enough detail to detect the fake).

3. The seller provides Certificates of Authenticity (These are only as good as the seller; if the seller is a fraud how good is his COA? Sellers of genuine items rarely offer COAs since we know that they are worthless, while fraudsters hand them out like candy).

4. There is no Oxford certificate for very expensive premium items (The only certificate that has value is one from Oxford Authentication Ltd. which is the only independent authentication company whose lab results are accepted by Sotheby's and Christie's. An item with an Oxford certificate is worth substantially more than the high cost of the lab test).

5. The seller uses inappropriate dating terms like "from the time of Moses", "super old", "before Jesus", etc.

6. The seller is based in Mainland China (Items older than 100 years cannot be shipped out of Mainland China. DHL and FedEx will *not* ship genuine antiques from the Mainland. However, they will ship reproductions.)

7. The seller has a never ending supply of the same identical items (Especially common approach used by sellers of fake Egyptian items).
8. The seller provides too short of an inspection period, such as 3 days (not enough time to consult with a museum or have an item independently tested)

9. The seller does not provide a fair return policy.

10. The seller does not provide an authenticity guarantee (Since a fake can get by even the most knowledgeable seller, it is important that he or she be willing to take it back should independent testing reveal a fake. And they should agree to reimburse for the testing if the item proves to be a fake.)

11. The seller refuses to accept credit cards (since they are not reputable or established enough to qualify).

12. The seller uses a private auction format so bidder identities are kept hidden (prevents bidders from being warned by others that they are bidding on a fake item).

13. I will add any items that says "authentic" in the title.

Please respond with any tips you feel are improtant and pertinent.


Look, listen, learn.

Bill Marsh

 

[Bill Martino]

A word to the wise....... Thanks, Bill.

 

[not2sharp]

These are good indicators, although I have seen a number of really good items with fuzzy pictures and dumb descriptions sold by people who simply had no clue. It is important to get to know as much about the subject as you possibly can, and to grow gradually within the hobby. Just about everything with an edge on it that is over 100 years old has been sold as a "Genuine Civil War Knife/Sword"; and, a few actually were.

The market tends to hit a level price for items of a common type. If the seller wants a higher price for his example; either because it is constructed of premium materials, or has a historical association with significant events or personalities; it is incombent on the seller to prove their arguement.

If some day, while going through a garage sale in the back woods of Georgia, you happen upon a colorful old sword bearing the name of General Robert E. Lee, just relax and take a moment to reflect on what you see. Is it an authentic 19th century item? Does it show the normal wear and patina for a period piece? Do we have any collaborating evidence?

It may be a $100 civil war type sword (perhaps a recent or not so recent reproduction), it may be a real civil war sword with some added alterations which would be worth a bit more, or it may be exactly what it claims to be. If the seller merely shrugs his shoulders, then give him a C-note; if he can demonstrate that the sword is a documented period piece (it has the correct manufacturer's marks, dimensions, acceptance marks ... etc.), then give him a pile of C-notes. If, on the other hand, the seller hands you an insurance certificate with a binder full of lab tests, letter, photos, and research papers from well known authorities and specialist museums; then perhaps it would be time for your lawyer, procurement agent, and insurance specialist, to sit with his team and work out a suitable contract for the transfer of the sword.

It may be a $1 million sword, but someone is going to have to risk many $1,000s to prove it, and until the work gets done, it is not worth anywhere near it's full potential.

n2s

 

[Tom Holt]

As a small-time collector of coins, swords & other antiques, my policy is simple; if there's any possibility that the item could be a fake, I won't buy unless I've examined and handled it *before* I part with my money. Unless you're very knowledgeable indeed, I don't think you can judge authenticity from a photograph. Patina, wear, colour &c have to be seen - and touched, where applicable - 'in the flesh'.

Of course, common sense has a part to play. Some collectables simply aren't worth faking, so the danger is minimal; for example, there's no money to be made in faking the majority of Roman coins. It'd cost more to make a half-convincing fake than the real thing is worth.

 

[Bill Martino]

Buyer beware and use all the common sense you can muster.