To B(K-3), or not to B(K-3), that is the question......

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Apr 14, 2006
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To be, or not to be, that is the question:
Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer
The slings and arrows of outrageous fortune,.........

OOPS!, Sorry, got carried away.

Yesterday, I met up with my buddy, Phil so we could go and play in the woods. One of the things that I wanted to address was the question of how well the BK-3 would do in this capacity.

I also wanted to play with some trap triggers and anything else that struck our fancy. I was concerned that, due to never-ending rain conditions, that Sunday, too, would get rained out, but I worried for nothing as it was a perfect Fall day.

I thought a good test for the Tac Tool would be to gather and prepare materials for a bow drill fire, as could be the case in a survival type situation, so this we set out to do.

We spotted this Pine stump and thought it might contain some fat wood.

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We didn't find too much in the way of fat wood, but did find some emergency rations :rolleyes: .

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The BK-3 worked well at this task as there was no fear of breaking it by prying apart the stump.

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We moved on and spotted a dead stump of a Cedar (Thuja occidentalis) and decided to grab it as possible hearth and drill.

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Man, this was one tough old Cedar, but I hacked away at it, and it finally conceded. While the BK-3 wouldn't have been my first choice (which would be my Machax :rolleyes:), it did get the job done.

One thing I noticed was that although the handle seemed comfortable and large enough, while wailing on the Cedar, the beak of the scales seemed to dig into my hand, suggesting it was too small???? I never noticed this with my Machax and perhaps it was just my 65-year-old hand getting 'pussified'. :(

With the Cedar in hand, we continued on looking for other possible options (Basswood is my all-time favourite, and I was holding out).

We stopped for a bit, and Phil proceeded to baton the Cedar down to size.

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This is one application that the BK-3 excels at - batonning (sp?). The 1/4" blade makes short work of the Cedar.

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(to be continued)
 
We found a piece of what I thought was Basswood (Tilia americana) for a drill. When I tried to carve off the bark, the chisel grind of the BK-3 kept trying to dig too deeply into the wood, so I switched to a 2-handed method which worked much better (greater control).

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Further on, we happened upon a downed Birch , so we stopped to add some highly flammable bark to our growing supplies.

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Further still, we came across a standing, dead Trembling Aspen (Populus tremuloides), which Phil proceeded to harvest.

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Phil remarked that the BK-3 chopped the Aspen fairly well - it was much softer than the old Cedar.

At this point we headed back towards the parking area. It was decided that we should use some natural cordage for the bow string, rather than the shoe laces or 550 that we had with us.

Although the valley was, at one time, home to Wood Nettle (Laportea canadensis) and Indian Hemp (Apocynum cannibinum), a recent expressway cutting through the area had wiped them out. However, there was some Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) growing by our vehicles. We have previously had success with the bow drill using 3-braid green Milkweed skin, so decided to see if there was any green Milkweed left, it being late in the season. Luckily, we managed to find some, so we harvested it, and made some Milkweed cordage.

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Before we trimmed off the loose bits:

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We then hiked to an area to prepare our material. Earlier it was mentioned that the BK-3 chopped better for left-handers (did I get that right, Moose?). In checking with Moose, it was determined that this was the case for chopping horizontal material. Generally, I chop everything vertically, so it was not an issue. I chop down, turn the wood a little bit, chop down, turn again, etc. until it is cut all the way around, when it can be broken apart. So, the BK-3 did an acceptable job, without the problem of the other side glancing off the wood.

It's not necessary to chop in 2 directions with vertical wood, in fact, it's more efficient, not to. And there's nothing so big, that I would be chopping that couldn't be held in a vertical fashion.

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(to be continued)
 
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Preparing the hearth

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Here, Phil is preparing the drill. He found that the serrations did a much better job of shaping the drill, than the straight edge! It also made nice little curls of wood to start the fire, as you can see laying on the ground.

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Here's a couple of pictures of how we attached the Milkweed to the bow (yes, I know the bow was cut with my Vic Spirit saw, but we were running out of daylight ). The BK-3 would have had no problem doing it, in any case. We, originally were going to secure the top end in a split in the end of a bow, but decided against it out of fear the split might cut at the Milkweed. The other end was simply wrapped around the bow and held securely by hand.

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Here, Phil's working on the divot

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Cutting in the notch - the serrated part worked quite well for this.

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The notch:

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(to be continued)
 
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Everything assembled:

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Working up a sweat

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Alas, no coal was to be had. Normally, if I have poor results with one material, I'll switch to another, but we were running out of time and we still wanted to set up a couple of traps. BTW, the Milkweed cord worked excellently, and despite Phil's repeated attempts at a coal, the cord remained intact. Quite surprising, really.

Anyway, we succeeded in giving the BK-3 a bit of an outdoors workout and the results, as I see them is:

Not the best chopper, but will do in a pinch.
Capable of making fuzz sticks (although the fuzz doesn't remain on the stick :rolleyes:), although not very efficient.
Works great at prying.
Works great at batonning (sp?)
Able to carve trap triggers, although not very efficient.
Would work well for pounding in stakes in the ground, although we never thought to use it for that

So, all in all, it didn't work too badly, although it won't replace my BK-4, any time soon.

I leave you with a couple of pictures of trap triggers. (Trigger courtesy of pitdog in W&SS sub forum). When I first saw this trigger, I thought it would work well for a drop net, as well as a lifting-pole trigger - I wasn't wrong.

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Thanks for looking.

Doc
 
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Awesome stuff Doc !

Man that Milkweed cordage is huge, I think Bear Grylls could come down a rockface on that stuff !:eek:

Glad ya like the wishbone trap;):thumbup:
 
Awesome stuff Doc !

Man that Milkweed cordage is huge, I think Bear Grylls could come down a rockface on that stuff !:eek:

Glad ya like the wishbone trap;):thumbup:

It had to be huge to take the wear and also to grip the drill - the milkweed was dripping wet, in fact if you look closely at the drill, you can see the wet stain where the cordage tracked on the drill. We were worried that it would run down onto the hearth, but it didn't appear to.

Also, it had to be 3-braid as compared to reverse-twist, because reverse twist would just not be viable with that material (in that condition).

Doc
 
Fanatastic post, DOC!!!! Nothing out of the norm for you though. Man, that looked like some serious fun, wish I could have went with you guys, and I love that hanging net trap you do. I just got a new method of net making, I gotta try out soon. :D

As for the BK3, it wouldn't be my first choice over my BK9 either, but in a pinch, it will take care of business, I just think the extra weight isn't justified for the performance. Now, if you had to bushcraft your way into a locked cabin, or car, it would be my only choice (as I have had to do that on a few occations). I think the BK3 has a more urban classification than any other knife I have used, and makes a great addition to the truck.

What do you think, DOC?

Oh, I will have you a new Machax as soon as I can lay my hands on one, which will be sooner than most. I would send you my sterile proto, but, its my sterile proto, so, just hang loose, I can't wait for you to check this guy out.

Moose
 
Really great post and pics - my takeaway from this is not about the knife at all. It is about the skill set of the user. We've never met, but I bet Doc could accomplish much of the same results with just about any knife...

(Not to say the BK3 isn't a good tool - it is. Rather, just about all modern commercial knives are better than they need to be. A BK3 is big, sharp and very durable - of course it can cut wood - it can cut sheet metal.)
 
Awesome! Keep the pics comin!

Thanks Derek.

Fanatastic post, DOC!!!! Nothing out of the norm for you though. Man, that looked like some serious fun, wish I could have went with you guys, and I love that hanging net trap you do. Thanks Moose. I wish you could have come too. If you're ever up this way....... And it may not be as far fetched as you think. tonym (from Connecticut made it up one year (seen here). I just got a new method of net making, I gotta try out soon. :D Details, please.
As for the BK3, it wouldn't be my first choice over my BK9 either, but in a pinch, it will take care of business, I just think the extra weight isn't justified for the performance. Now, if you had to bushcraft your way into a locked cabin, or car, it would be my only choice (as I have had to do that on a few occations). I think the BK3 has a more urban classification than any other knife I have used, and makes a great addition to the truck.

What do you think, DOC? Actually, I've been interested in the BK-3 ever since I saw it in Karen Hood's video and at one point I was negotiating for one with Guyon. I bought it with the realization that it's not designed as a woods tool but wanted it for my van. One thing I forgot to mention about my impressions of the Tac Tool is it's ability as a digger. We were going to dig up some Spruce root, but forgot. Not the best time of year for that in any case.

Oh, I will have you a new Machax as soon as I can lay my hands on one, which will be sooner than most. I would send you my sterile proto, but, its my sterile proto, so, just hang loose, I can't wait for you to check this guy out. Neither can I. :D Moose

Really great post and pics - my takeaway from this is not about the knife at all. It is about the skill set of the user. We've never met, but I bet Doc could accomplish much of the same results with just about any knife...

(Not to say the BK3 isn't a good tool - it is. Rather, just about all modern commercial knives are better than they need to be. A BK3 is big, sharp and very durable - of course it can cut wood - it can cut sheet metal.)

Thanks for that paperairplane, but as the pictures show, Phil did most of the work :D. After all, that's what you young guys are for. :D


Good stuff. You've shown that the BK-3 is more useful in the woods than many would think.

Absoloutely right, SS. I'm sure that early man would have given anything to get his hands on one.

Just a follow up. I received this email from Phil this morning:

Hi Doc

Last night I thought I would try getting a coal with the materials we collected on Sunday. I left them in the garage the night before thinking that it would be cool and they would not dry out as fast. The Milkweed braided cord was still a little moist but I moistened it a little more before trying it out. I decided to use the cedar since we did not have much luck with the poplar. I split off a piece to make the drill and carved the starter notch in the board. I then started to burn in the hole using the bow and milkweed cord. I was getting smoke after a few turns of the drill and started to get char after a few more. The cord was starting to fray a little at this point. I carved the notch it the side of the board and started drilling again. Unfortunately before I could get enough char to make the coal the cord gave out. I finished getting the coal with my regular bow. I think if we had of tried the cedar on Sunday we may have had success.

I also tried the poplar board and drill that we tried on Sunday and did not get a coal, even with my regular bow. I checked the moisture content of board and it was greater than 25% and the drill was 22%. When I checked the cedar it was only 11%.

Just thought you might like to know.

Phil

Doc
 
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Great field test/review Doc C. I'd never actually thought about taking a BK3 to the sticks, but now I may. Great, now I gotta get a BK3!
 
Nice pictorial! I think you answered your question admirably and the answer is yes, the BK3 is a necessary tool. Now what you have done is make my next purchase a lot harder! I always kind of looked at the 3 as a toy, or sorts, and was ready to buy the 5. Now I've either got to make up my mind or put one on the Christmas wishlist!

Excellent work on the bow drill, btw. I've not yet attempted that, because I'm always just going to the trusty fire-steel for "primitive" fire making. You've inspired me, though, and I now has a project for the weekend. Likelyhood is that I'll never need the skill, but if I did, it would be good to have experience before making myself crazy!
 
Great field test/review Doc C. I'd never actually thought about taking a BK3 to the sticks, but now I may. Great, now I gotta get a BK3!

Thanks Murphnuge. Sorry about spending your money. :rolleyes:

Nice pictorial! I think you answered your question admirably and the answer is yes, the BK3 is a necessary tool. Now what you have done is make my next purchase a lot harder! I always kind of looked at the 3 as a toy, or sorts, and was ready to buy the 5. Now I've either got to make up my mind or put one on the Christmas wishlist!

Excellent work on the bow drill, btw. I've not yet attempted that, because I'm always just going to the trusty fire-steel for "primitive" fire making. You've inspired me, though, and I now has a project for the weekend. Likelyhood is that I'll never need the skill, but if I did, it would be good to have experience before making myself crazy!

Thanks mrn8. I hope I haven't given the impression that I would recommend the 3 as a bush tool, because I wouldn't, but as a vehicle tool, absolutely.

As far as bow drill, do it. Learning on your own can be intimidating, trust me, I know. A couple of years ago, I did a tutorial on bow drill that might help you. It can be seen here. Good luck.

Doc
 
Thanks mrn8. I hope I haven't given the impression that I would recommend the 3 as a bush tool, because I wouldn't, but as a vehicle tool, absolutely.

As far as bow drill, do it. Learning on your own can be intimidating, trust me, I know. A couple of years ago, I did a tutorial on bow drill that might help you. It can be seen here. Good luck.

Doc

Nah, I wasn't under the impression that it was a be-all and end-all bush tool. It does look like it would be great to have in the camper or the truck and inspires a bit of a carnal response, since it's not your traditional camp-knife shape.
 
Oh, I will have you a new Machax as soon as I can lay my hands on one, which will be sooner than most. I would send you my sterile proto, but, its my sterile proto

:eek::eek:First mention that Machax protos are out! :eek::eek:

Also, great thread DOC. Makes me want one of these even more, despite the fact that I dunno what they're for!
 
Thank you Doc... That conveyed a lot of knowledge and was very pleasant. And those little foam pads look well worth their weight and bulk.
 
DOC, the net I was talking about was a field expedient work up, using something like paracord or a dynamic rope with multiple inner strands. Run out 20' of line, gut it, then cut the sheath in to (app 10') tie it up between two trees, top run and a bottom run. Take the top run and inner runn, set you up a double clove hitch along the top, then alternate tying squares between them on the route down.

I've made some smaller versions in the house, about 3', and I found it makes for a great fishing net, live trap, haversack, or just something to chase the kids with. Nothing like your nets, brother, but I'm not patient enough to do a good weave, quick and dirty is more my style.

Moose
 
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