Does anyone know (duh) if i have to apply flux to a blade before soldering the guard? I'm thinking the answer is yes, but then that leads to the real question....what kind of flux do I use? I've read (from Loveless) that different kinds of flux can change the attributes of the solder. What kinds are acceptable for brass and nickel silver? Does it really matter?
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To flux or not to flux...
- Thread starter coty
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 3, 1999
- Messages
- 9,437
coty-
There are several different types of solder and flux that you can use. Many of us have experimented with different brands...which can actually mean quite a lot; such as higher melting temperatures and such.
But you can make a very clean soldered joint with Stay-Brite tin-silver solder and Stay-brite flux.
Here is a basic soldering procedure for Stay-Brite:
The key to a good soldering job is a tight fit and a CLEAN joint. The fit is gonna be up to you for careful filing or milling.
Most guys use Acetone to clean the blade and guard, but I was told by a chemist that I used to train that Acetone will leave a VERY thin film on the material...so what to use? I clean everything very thoroughly with Liquid Ivory, by his recommendation, and it works very well.
Use a flux brush or a syringe to apply the flux at the joint. I kind of like the syringe, because it keeps the flux where you really want it. But an acid brush works well too.
Apply the heat from the underside and when the flux starts to bubble then discolor, apply more flux. Keep applying heat evenly, and at this point the solder should start to flow when you touch it to the joint.
It's a good idea to flatten the solder before you use it, that way you minimize the excess.
Flow enough solder around the joint to cover it. Drag a piece of stainless rod (ground on one end to a sharp point and pre-heated with your torch) through the joint to eliminate air bubbles.
With the acid brush drenched in flux, run it over the joint to clean it up and swipe away excess solder.
Brass is very easy to solder, nickel silver a little harder, and 416 stainless much harder yet.
Hope this helped out and didn't just go way over what you were asking.
Nick
[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 02-16-2001).]
[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 02-16-2001).]
There are several different types of solder and flux that you can use. Many of us have experimented with different brands...which can actually mean quite a lot; such as higher melting temperatures and such.
But you can make a very clean soldered joint with Stay-Brite tin-silver solder and Stay-brite flux.
Here is a basic soldering procedure for Stay-Brite:
The key to a good soldering job is a tight fit and a CLEAN joint. The fit is gonna be up to you for careful filing or milling.
Most guys use Acetone to clean the blade and guard, but I was told by a chemist that I used to train that Acetone will leave a VERY thin film on the material...so what to use? I clean everything very thoroughly with Liquid Ivory, by his recommendation, and it works very well.
Use a flux brush or a syringe to apply the flux at the joint. I kind of like the syringe, because it keeps the flux where you really want it. But an acid brush works well too.
Apply the heat from the underside and when the flux starts to bubble then discolor, apply more flux. Keep applying heat evenly, and at this point the solder should start to flow when you touch it to the joint.
It's a good idea to flatten the solder before you use it, that way you minimize the excess.
Flow enough solder around the joint to cover it. Drag a piece of stainless rod (ground on one end to a sharp point and pre-heated with your torch) through the joint to eliminate air bubbles.
With the acid brush drenched in flux, run it over the joint to clean it up and swipe away excess solder.
Brass is very easy to solder, nickel silver a little harder, and 416 stainless much harder yet.
Hope this helped out and didn't just go way over what you were asking.
Nick
[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 02-16-2001).]
[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 02-16-2001).]
Hey, Nick we had a discussion about liquid Ivory on the Junkyard, someone thought that Ivory was one of the soaps made without a petroleum base, and so would be okay for leak testing oxygen lines.
Do you or your chemist friend know if this is true? inquiring minds want to know.
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Sola Fide
Do you or your chemist friend know if this is true? inquiring minds want to know.
------------------
Sola Fide