tomahawk drifts

Charles

I made mine out of an old model A axel. Just heated it and stuffed in a bucket of ashes then ground the shape I wanted with a hand grinder. Heated and quenched in water to reharden but it wasn't really necessary. I punch the hole with a long handled cole chisel, then drift 1/2 thru bottom side then finish from the top side. Just keep a can of axle grease near to cool your chisel and drift with and it also keeps them from sticking. I found you need to get to white heat before spliting just under burning the steel.BE CAREFUL

Hope this helps:D :eek:
Bill
 
I use Centaur tomahawk drifts. They take a lot of abuse so plan on buying a couple at least. With the method I use you can get about 10-15 hawks before the drift loses to much of the shape I like. www.lchansen.com
 
When you hot cut through the bar to start the Hawk do you need to drill any holes in the bar first ???????
Inquiring minds want to know,as I have been folding and welding mune together leaving the hole open then drifting it and I think the way you guys are talking about would be easier and look alot cleaner,
Bruce
 
Bruce,


I know everyone has there own way, but I've drilled holes before splitting and split without drilling, drilling holes do take more clean up but it is easier. If you use a good chisel that is evenly ground on both cutting sides and bring to white heat(just under burning) you can split a 3/4" bar in 1 heat if you move quickly. I always split from the bottom first ALMOST all the way through then quickly flip and finish splitting, just keep your chisels cooled with grease. The drift I made from the axel has been used on several and it shows no wear but I keep it well greased, it leaves a good
1" - 1 1/4" oblong hole and a nice tapper. After you split if the hole is a little uneven just even it up using the anvil horn, then drift but don't worry about a finished looking hole until after you have finished shaping the hawk. Then drift from the top down and your done.
Just be careful because it is terribly hot.

Good Luck
Bill
 
Thanks Bill....I think I will try it this way.I will also try the grease..
What size bar do you usually start with when making a Hawk that is going to have a 3 1/2 inch cutting face????
Bruce
 
Bruce,

I have some 1"x 3/4" stock I use on bigger axes and on throwing hawks I use RR spikes. I'll take a 6" spike and bump it up until it is about 4" long, that will make it about 7/8"x7/8" or so out on the end for your cutter. Then bring it up to forging heat and fuller it to spread from top to bottom, flatten ,heat, fuller, flatten, and so on until you get the width and and thickness you want. Shortening and
getting the hole punched is the hard part, after that its all gravy.
Put a 16"-20" handle on and there pretty wicked, stick every time from about 20'.
Heres a picture of one that ended up with a 3" blade, its not fancy
but there fun to throw and make a good camping axe.
Have Fun.:D

Bill
 
I was looking at the drift in my Centaur catalog and I was wondering if I put it all the way through? But as far as making a tomahawk eye with somethig like a spike or a pipe I need to make a slit with a hot chisel, then drift it about half way through, then flip it and punch it through? Am I right? Thanks guys.
 
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