TomaHawk Work in Progress (WIP)

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Mar 7, 2008
Messages
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Well you guy's (( inappropriate language )) for taken so long to get this started some other time right now i'm so deep in Doo-Doo it really don't matter cause your gonna have to take a number.
Bear in mind this WIP is for the guy's or gal's that don't have alot of modern day machinery at their disposal.
These first 3 photo's show how i lay out the blank with a scribe to indicate cut line's-1 long line down the center on 2 side's more commonly referred to as top and bottom,these 2 line's will be used to chisel cut your slit line for you drift alittle bit later on.
The next set of line's i scribe are on all 4 side's and these line's give me a reference point for fullering off the amount of material for a Spike or Poll which ever the case may be.
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The next photo show's how you make shallow cut's with a cold chisel to mark you slit line for drifting
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Up to this point the blank has'nt seen any fire yet,now it goes in the forge and heated to a workable temperature to be fullered,the next phto show's it being fullered off in my little homeade guillitin and you can see how clear your chisel cut line's show up for the slit and drift operation
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This next photo show's the blank with the material fullered off along side the guillitin,that's not how you spell but you get the idea
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Now come's the fun part and the time where alot of people screw up trying to slit for the drift,i get her good and hot and start my slitting tool in one side of my chisel cut line-remember top and bottom,istsrt working the slitting chisel thru the top little by little and rotate the blank from top to bottom with the cut's this insure's me of an even straight cut all the way thru the blank and the cut's meet in the center.
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Once i feel the slitting chisel cut thru the center i lay the blank over my hardy hole and drive all the way thru as shown in the next photo
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Once i use the hardy hole to drive it thru you can lay it across the jaw's of your vise and slit it futher
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Here is the hard part of your project behind you laying on the anvil slit for the drift and fullered for a spike or poll which ever you prefer,next posting we'll get her all rough forged into a Spike Hawk and go out and THROW IT in the mean time for those of you that don't have a Trip Hammer-Start Looking for a good Striker-See ya in a couple day's
 
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steve, thanx for the WIP. very informative. btw, the hudson has performed very well on some downed tree limbs. got it on standby for zombie invaison too. :D
 
I'll try to get this finished up ASAP-I'll be doing some down load's on You Tube so you can see action packed adventure's with your's truly as well as making tutorial's video's for advanced,giving all kind's of new meaning to TOO Many Iron's in the Fire :eek:
 
Steve, Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. Its really a treat to get a chance to actually see how things are done. And to me its more of an art when you do it without all those modern tools.
Have a Good one and Merry Christmas !
 
Here we go for another round,last session showed the blank fullered off and slit,now we have to open the slit to accept the drift since the drift is larger than the slit
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Having done that we're ready to drift
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You'll notice the drift is only half way thru the blank,here is where you can draw the skirt's down and give it a Ball Pein effect if you so desire,for the sake of simplicity i chose not to on this one and avoid get anyone confused.Now we're ready to draw the spike after the drift was set to within an inch from the top.
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Rotating the blank from side to side on the trip hammer draw's the Spike to a desired length depending on how much material you've fullered off will determine the size and length of spike as shown above.
Now we repeat the same thing for the blade as shown below
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Now i straighten out the hump and get ready to do some hand forging
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Till next time we're getting there slowly but surely
 
how long is the slit from front to back? is it larger than what the finished dimensions of the eye will be? and whats the story on your anvil? is your horn made that way so to be used as a mandrel of some sort?
 
how long is the slit from front to back? is it larger than what the finished dimensions of the eye will be? and whats the story on your anvil? is your horn made that way so to be used as a mandrel of some sort?
I was wondering when someone would inquire about the anvil,It's my own dream i made up from a blum cut-off of 5150,turned the step mandrel and slotted cone and welded em up,the piece i bought was 3 + feet long,i cut it into 3 piece's 12 1/4 long.Working face is 7 x 7 now i've got a bunch of anvil's i don't use.

The slit is 1 1/4 long,by the time you set your drift it leave's you alittle room for stretch,the tool i use was made from a rail strap
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Now we're ready to start the bump and draw process,i do this 3 time and it usually give me a 2 5/8 inch cuttin edge for clean up which mean's you should end up with any where between 2 1/2 to 2 1/4 for a finished edge
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you'll notice i'm holding the drift backward's,i beat the edge of the hawk down against the anvil to bump material back for drawing the edge to width and length
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After the bumping and drawing i lay it upside down on the anvil and beat out all the hump's and bump's on the top edge
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Now what i want to do is put a radius on the spike and here where my scroll mandrel comes in savageknifes
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Almost got her done,now i want to put it on the drift and make sure eveything is centered and in it's proper place
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Now you should really know what come's next--before i even waste the time to profile the edge or grind the bevel's and clean it up,Well you get the idea
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And that my friend's is how a spike hawk is forged from a hunk of steel
SEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE-Ya
 
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