Video questions for Chuck...

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
7,440
Why is it that your skiver seems to work so much easier than mine. We both have the same kind - but I seem to really have to work mine to get it to cut - am I doing something wrong?

When you glued the sheath together (the front / welt to the back) - it did not show how you did that. Did you simply let that glue set up, and the contact cement held it tight? Or did you clamp it?

I find my edger works better when it is dry - you always dampen your edges - what advantage do you find?

Why do you not, when you punch the holes from the back of the sheath from the front to the back 'connect the dots' at that point?

Observation: I was so happy to see you make a small mistake here and there - it made me feel better as a maker, and I learned so much about how to fix those little mistakes. In terms of the video - it made it very 'real'. .

Second Observation: I think I need to count how many times you said 'Very Carefully'. That is what makes a decent sheath for me to a good sheath for me. If I am getting rushed - I make crappy sheaths.

Where did you get the leather from that you used in the video? This is exactly what I want in leather - you could tell how good it was just watching it.


How many ounce mallet were you using when you were using your double action beveler?

Observation: I think you should brand your own hammer, called the 'Kerplunk Hammer' ;)

What tools were you using? Were those craftools - or a little more spendy?

I am sure I will have more as I watch.

Thanks!

Jason
 
Last edited:
TF - I will get to you ASAP, but right now all of my time is going to fill orders of which I'm behind on - anyway hang in there!
 
What the heck? You mean money making - and like keeping the electricity on is PRIORITY!

;)

No problems Chuck - just thought you missed it - take your time. Make money and more importantly - make more of those awesome sheaths!

TF
 
Re: the skiver... try changing the blade. I find they get dull more quickly than I think they do and suddenly I find myself working too hard and change the blade. Zing!! sometimes the habits of a dull blade cause mistakes with a sharp one, careful.

From my experience, the dampening the edge before the edger depends on the cut of the leather. Some of the toughest parts of the side can use dampening but if you get too close to the belly, dampening will turn it into mush.

I think it's time for me to watch that video again..
 
Why is it that your skiver seems to work so much easier than mine. We both have the same kind - but I seem to really have to work mine to get it to cut - am I doing something wrong?
1) As noted use a sharp blade. When it starts getting dull replace it.
2) Use good leather - I use Wickett & Craig exclusively - 8/10 oz saddle sides or the tooling leather - they have monthly sales. Every hide is different though - some are harder than other. Import leather often has hard spots in it that can cause problems.
3)Dampening the leather can help it cut - just damp not sopping wet


When you glued the sheath together (the front / welt to the back) - it did not show how you did that. Did you simply let that glue set up, and the contact cement held it tight? Or did you clamp it?
Generally no clamps are needed when using contact cement

I find my edger works better when it is dry - you always dampen your edges - what advantage do you find?
Do what works best - I generally find the mien cut better/smoother when the leather is damp. Make sure your edger is razor sharp and highly polished. To sharpen I use a very fine needle file or stone of the right size to get the edge set then keep it sharp by burnishing - red rouge on a piece of nylon string the right diameter works good


Why do you not, when you punch the holes from the back of the sheath from the front to the back 'connect the dots' at that point?
Punching through all three layers can be done, but the chances of missing the groove on the back side increase. By punching the holes only through the front and welt first you have a guide for the hole in the back and only one layer of leather to stab the awl through. By using the awl for the back if it's slightly off line you can pull back and reset it to come out straight.


Observation: I was so happy to see you make a small mistake here and there - it made me feel better as a maker, and I learned so much about how to fix those little mistakes. In terms of the video - it made it very 'real'. .
We all make mistakes! I know for a fact that Sandy Morrisey throws many a piece away and from what Paul Long's daughter just said so does he - we don't have to be perfect, I'm far from it, but if the mistake is "jarring" to my eye than it gets scrapped.........


Second Observation: I think I need to count how many times you said 'Very Carefully'. That is what makes a decent sheath for me to a good sheath for me. If I am getting rushed - I make crappy sheaths.
Yes getting rushed is a big culprit (it leads to stress and stress means trouble) and one I have to constantly remind myself about - when feeling rushed back off and slow down

Where did you get the leather from that you used in the video? This is exactly what I want in leather - you could tell how good it was just watching it.
www.wickett-craig.com - give them a call

How many ounce mallet were you using when you were using your double action beveler?
My favorite rawhide mallet is a 24 oz. I also have a 32, and a 64 oz - the 64 oz gets used only for special operations. For backgrounding and other "light" stamping I have a nylon head 16 oz mechanics hammer I've used for a long time - the only synthetic head hammer I've ever liked. I prefer the heavier mallet, but then again I swung a 40oz framing hammer and a 3-5 lb forging hammer for years..


Observation: I think you should brand your own hammer, called the 'Kerplunk Hammer' ;)
I prefer rawhide mallets over the new poly head types, I've tried several good poly ones (i.e Barry King), but I guess I'm just too stuck in the old ways to like them - but like anything else find what works for you. Rawhide mallets though are getting hard to find.

What tools were you using? Were those craftools - or a little more spendy?
Mine are mostly Craftool but they are all old, 30+ years or more, when their quality was still good. Currently from what I've seen of the latest ones I can't recommend them.
Hidecrafter's sells a line of stamps that is several steps up in quality, but are only about twice the cost of the Craftool line. Those who use them recommend them. Then there are the pro lines such as by Beard, Watt, King, and others - excellent but pricey. For more tool recommendations I'd go over to http://leatherworker.net/forum/ and do some research - that site in conjunction with this one will help a lot to answer questions
 
This is perfect Chuck - just perfect.

Thanks so much. I learned a ton just watching you - and was mad at myself for not buying it sooner. When I watched you run the overstitcher over your holes - like I stumbled on a few months ago - I thought - Well THAT would have saved me a lot of heartache!

I hope your business is doing well.

TF
 
I just wanted to say that I recently purchased your DVD and found it extremely helpful. I had unknowingly developed some really bad habits that I would have discovered had I not seen your tutorial.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top