Wanting to make full scales for Izula

jumpmonkey

jumpmonkey

Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
970
Hey guys,

So, I am loving my Izula. The two is on its way soon, but I think I am just about set with the length of the original (much to my surprise). However I am really wanting to put some full length micarta slabs on it. That and a Kydex sheath are all that stand between the Izy and perfection (IMHO).

That being said, I'd like to try my hand at making slabs for it but I don't know what kind of tools I'll need to work the micarta (I don't have a lot available, but can spend on some cheaper tools.) The other thing is I don't know exactly how the process goes.

Can anyone offer some help here?

God bless,
Adam
 
If you don't have the tools, the tools will cost more than having a custom one done

You'll need more than a Dremel tool if you're looking to make them from G-10, Micarta or even wood.

Drill Press
Files
Sand Paper
Belt Sander
Dremel
Skill
 
Testify,

I don't wish to sound snotty in my reply, the following is an honest query. Do you really need a belt sander and dremel for the job, or do those fall more under the category of expedient (as compared to say some long hard labor with some sand paper.) While I do not have a drill press, I am almost certain that I can borrow the necessary time. As relating to skill, one must start somewhere, and I like to learn and try new things. Thank you much for your response.

God bless,
Adam
 
You can certainly do it by hand Adam. :)

Pretty much with sand paper & a coping saw you can get it done, although a drill of some type will come in handy. :thumbup:

Post some pics of your end results.

Good luck and have fun...... :thumbup:
 
TAGannon said:
Bastard file, sand paper, Goop Plumbing glue.
Click to expand...
+1 on this - although I'd suggest 2 part epoxy if you want them to be permanent.
If not, drill a couple of holes and countersink machine screws.
 
jumpmonkey said:
Testify,

I don't wish to sound snotty in my reply, the following is an honest query. Do you really need a belt sander and dremel for the job, or do those fall more under the category of expedient (as compared to say some long hard labor with some sand paper.) While I do not have a drill press, I am almost certain that I can borrow the necessary time. As relating to skill, one must start somewhere, and I like to learn and try new things. Thank you much for your response.

God bless,
Adam
Click to expand...


No offense taken. :thumbup: Having a variety of tools, or at least a Dremel, can save you a lot of time. A Dremel tool kit already comes with a ton of accessories.

Sanding and filing by hand takes time, and not just 10-20 minutes of it. Of course you can trade your time away and sweat a little, that's not what I would prefer though ;)

Having a drill press adds the ability to use Sanding drums and drill bits precisely. I know a typical beginner can do without any of those tools, but it certainly will be very hard for them to manipulate the skill without tools.

I've learned my lesson and stopped sanding by hand. Sanding by hand is painful for takes a long time. A belt sander isn't cheap but it's multi-purpose capability means you can do other things besides making Handle material.

I'm sure the pros have more bells and whistles in the tool department. Barry H has a Spindle Sander for his technique.

About your "skill", I posted that into my first response because it really helps to be good with your hands. I apologize for potentially mocking anyone
 
Guys,

Thanks for the input. It sounds like I'll be investing in some micarta. I would like the handles to be removable. I personally like the way that ESEE has the handles on the H.E.S.T. set up. Does anyone know where I could get the same/similar fasteners?

Testify, about the skill comment, thanks for the clarification and no offense taken. Without some basic coordination and awareness of the hands on the outset it's easy to get a nasty injury with a hand tool, let alone a power tool. It also makes it easy to really screw up your piece.

I wish I did have some belt sanders, grinders, etc. to play with. I know the sore aching hands that are going to be in store after hours of tedious filing and sanding. But, I also know the joy of having a well earned piece at the end of it all. And besides, ATM I'm single and live by myself. I can afford to piddle away an evening with small pleasures (well with the appropriate amount of Advil/Ibuprofin to numb the pain) like this.

God bless,
Adam
 
there are a couple of threads that mention the fasteners - I think they're #8x32 machine screws and posts.
another thought - get a 4 way woodworker's file -- they're about 8" long, have file and rasp surfaces (rasp for fast stock removal, file for cleanup) both flat and slightly rounded (for inside curves). you should be able to find a decent one around $10 at your local home or hardware store.
another thought - do a test run with a piece of wood -- like a slat out of a broken oak pallet.
 
Well, we're getting there. I'm in for $30 with files and a coping saw. It looks like I'll be waiting until Friday for knifekits to get more micarta in. I looked at other options, but I like the canvas micarta and I'm too inexperienced to go messing up twenty dollars worth of textured G10 which I'm strongly considering (in a future way.)

Will I be needing a vice or clamps while I work the piece?

God bless,
Adam
 
yup - to hold the blade in place while you're shaping the scales on it.
this can be as simple as a c-clamp and a couple scraps of leather or inner tube to protect the blade from the clamp.
 
So, I have pretty much everything I need on the way or already here. But, I do have some questions for those who have done this kind of thing before.

1) Once I have the slabs blanked out to aproximate shape do I work them on the knife itself?

2) If yes, how do I keep from filing/sanding the knife?

3) If no, how do I know my shape is right?

Any other tips or hints would be awesome, this is my first try at making anything on a knife.

God bless,
Adam
 
Full scales just seem like a perfect compliment to the Izula. :thumbup:

I love seeing customized ESEE knives:thumbup::cool:.

I was in the process of making some wood scales with very little tooling. I have been putting it off lately though. I need to make an inner piece to put between the two scales so that they don't slip around. I suppose we could call this the cleat, unless there is a more appropriate term?

I have been using extra course sand paper and files to shape the handles. I put them in a vise and work one side at a time. I used the Izula as a stencil to make sure the shape was going in the right direction.

After I get around to making and attaching the cleat to one scale, I can then drill holes and shape the scales more accurately by putting them on and off the knife.

This is Hawaiian Kiawe wood, and it is very dense stuff. I have to be curious if my choice of wood was poor. It is pretty tiring to work with by hand:D. The fun part about it is that it makes a really unique knife -made from local wood. :cool:

I will finish it sooner or later;).

Good luck on your project Adam. I look forward to seeing your finished handles!!!!

6406854f-1-1.jpg


Thanks,

-Max
 
Max,

Thanks for the input and direction friend! It is good help. I don't know much about material choices. I wound up going with some G10 (I've never handled it before but hear it's good, and sounded a wee bit easier to work than micarta.) I do love the color of that wood though. It looks very nice.

Are you going to make your scales removable? If so how do you go about getting/ensuring a M/F bolt that is the right size? Can they be cut to appropriate length?

God bless,
Adam
 
first - make a knife template out of plastic or cardboard - so you can sand to shape with the handles off the knife.
second - if you have an idea of what your finished thickness will be, you can try for machine screws that are just shorter than the final thickness.
3rd - if necessary, you can put a nut on the screws, file the screw down to length, then unscrew the nut to clean up the threads.
if your G10 is 3/16" thick, 2 slabs of that and the steel will total to just over 1/2", so buying 1/2" screws should be close to right. If your G10 is 1/4" thick, you'll need 5/8" machine screws.
 
Vik,

Thanks for the input man. I'll see if I can get that to work for me. I really don't want to to glue slabs if I don't have to! That will give me the fun of making all kinds of slabs for my own amusement. Also thank you for the shaping tip that'll definitely help spare my Izy some harm!

God bless,
Adam
 
Something that I didnt notice anybody mention when I skimmed this thread. If your using Micarta you need a resperator. Nasty stuff to breath. If your just using a file, sandpaper, and saw then a particle mask MAY be ok. you'll want to check on this. Make sure you get some good wet/dry sand paper, or your sandpaper will get hoplessly clogged in about a minute. Keep everything wet to keep the dust down.

also, drill your holes first or you'll look like an idiot down the road.
 
No problem Adam, I am in the same boat!

+1 --- thanks for the template tip 1066vik. I had pencil marks on the wood, but a physical template would make a way better guide. :thumbup:

I had an idea for the "cleat." I could use the Izula as a mold and poor epoxy resin into it's open handle space. I would do this with each handle cover, one cover at a time. This would make a perfectly fit cleat. I was thinking that I could cover the knife generously with wax or oil before, to make sure that the handles would not get stuck.
 
jumpmonkey said:
Guys,

Thanks for the input. It sounds like I'll be investing in some micarta. I would like the handles to be removable. I personally like the way that ESEE has the handles on the H.E.S.T. set up. Does anyone know where I could get the same/similar fasteners?

Testify, about the skill comment, thanks for the clarification and no offense taken. Without some basic coordination and awareness of the hands on the outset it's easy to get a nasty injury with a hand tool, let alone a power tool. It also makes it easy to really screw up your piece.

I wish I did have some belt sanders, grinders, etc. to play with. I know the sore aching hands that are going to be in store after hours of tedious filing and sanding. But, I also know the joy of having a well earned piece at the end of it all. And besides, ATM I'm single and live by myself. I can afford to piddle away an evening with small pleasures (well with the appropriate amount of Advil/Ibuprofin to numb the pain) like this.

God bless,
Adam
Click to expand...

mcmaster car has the threaded parts you need also they are called standoffs
http://www.mcmaster.com/#spacers-and-standoffs/=8t1gsl
you might need to get a little shorter or longer depending on how thick the scales will be.
i used 1/4 g10 on mine and was just about right.

screws can be picked up at local hardware stores
 
IMG_2687.jpg
.
IMG_2667.jpg
just a little eye candy.
First off get two ton epoxy. Strip the izula. Next trace out rough size of your scales next to the knife. Then drill the holes. Drill press is best but hand drill will work. Just clamp the slabs together to get a straight hole. Buy brass rod at ace hardware. Drill small divots into the back of the scales, rough up the metal on the knife and pins. Gule with epoxy and clamp for 24 hours. Rough shape the outside. Us a bastard file/ rasp for shaping. Them sandpaper. Voilà full scales for around $15-20.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top