Washer improtentace

K

knife_nut73

Joined
Jun 25, 2006
Messages
299
I had a manix that made a funny sound when the blade open or closed but the lock up was always secure. So I took it apart and found one of the washers bent. After many hours, and cursing I put the whole thing back together with one washer as I didn't have any. The action doesn't seem any different and lock up is the same solid. I was wondering if I should try and find a 2nd washer or pretty much leave it the way it is.
 
Typically the washer will make it just a bit less 'grainy' feeling when rotating the blade. It does help to smooth it out but you can't often tell the difference unless you have one to test it both ways. It is true that I've had several Manix, Mini Manix, and even Dodos and Yojimbos sent to me for work over the years that were in fact missing a washer either through QC dropping the ball at the factory or the owner of the knives doing it after taking them apart though so its not always even noticed when one is missing. You are not the only one without one in there. What I suspect happens is that folks think they put it on and since many of them are not the PB washers but the ones that are very light weight and affected by static they often times dislodge or fall out without notice. At other times they stick to the inside and are between the blade and the G10 but not on the pivot as they thought they were and they eventually work their way out and fall out without notice.

I'd suggest getting one yes. Spyderco will ship that out to you. They use that washer in several knives so its something they keep stock of and since the knife is from the Golden plant it won't be a problem usually. Give em a call tomorrow and get a new set on order.

STR
 
I looked and do have a couple of those if they are out. I usually like to keep a few on hand though since many times I have had to replace one for a knife I am working on. Ask them first but if they can't help you I'll send you one of mine. :thumbup:

STR
 
Well Spyderco said they would send me a few althoug they said it voids the warrenty but I don't care about that. Its the washers thats the problem not the edge, lock or anything else. I hope they send me a few cause this is the biggest pain in the ass to put back together. Try to line it up the washer slides, no room to try and push the washer back into place you think you get it all in and the pivot pin won't go in all the way. If I didn't like this knife so much it would go in the coffin with the remains of an old CRKT Apache who's lock died and tried to take finger off.
 
If it gives you fits mail it to me and I'll do it and ship it home for the shipping only. My read this thread (a sticky) top of the page has all the info you need to reach me. Just print the form from post two and mail. :thumbup:

STR
 
Well I managed to put it back together. The closing action is a bit stiff for some reason, no idea why that is and the washers are in. I used an old BP washer that I sanded down to match the thin orginal washer which I assume they're both in as there is no space whatsever to tell.
 
Doesn't sound right to me. It should not be stiff. Should be smoother. Maybe they gave you a washer that is too thick???

STR
 
Well on my chinook III when i close the blade, as the blade starts to go to the handle it just kind of springs closed like a lot of lock backs. The manix doesn't. It closes and locks up fine its just that part where it doesn't pop closed.
 
Sounds like the pivot is too tight.
The blade should spring shut.
STR
 
I tried another washer before and it didn't seem to work, so I put the 1 orginal washer and now the closing is fine. I can still "feel" that it needs a 2nd washer but it will have to do for now till spyderco sends me a washer. I've also read your sticky about folder maintance and was wondering about your experience with the military lock durablity. Its D-2 blade so I keep a thin coat of oil on it but I wonder since the whole thing is D-2 that if any corresion gets on there that it will effect lock up.

Sorry to go off topic, and thanks for the advice as I pick your brain some more.
 
Personally I rarely trust any liner lock at all these days but the Millie is a fairly well built one I think. Speaking of D2 if you compared it to ATS34 you can say it does not have the same level of corrosion resistance but truth be told D2 is the most stainless like of the non stainless steels.
How much Chromium is in the steel determines if its stainless or not and D2 has 11.50 plus compared to say the ATS34 at 14.00 or the AUS steels at 13.00. Granted D2 has a lot more carbon which plays into that but overall its a highly stainless steel even if technically its a non stainless.

I've bead blasted D2 for years with no problems and I know other makers that do this routinely also. Its not likely to give you problems. If it does it won't be anything but surface rust or spots in all liklihood that wipe right off.

D2 is one of my favorite steels although I rarely use it in my own knives. I have but its sometimes difficult for me to work and I get a bit frustrated with it. It work hardens on you pretty quick if you ask me but anyway, I doubt there will be rust problems at the contact. The lock abrasion action will keep it clean at the contact so no worries even if it did.

Again you'd have to swim in the ocean to get it to start rusting on you.
So, don't swim in salt water with it. :D

STR
 
Would you consider the military to be a hard use liner lock, if such a liner lock exsisted? I'm weary of liner locks myself. Ever since I bought the first crappy knife that was an old benchmade/emerson clone with a plastic liner lock. Yeah. Plastic. Ended in cuts. Then I had an old CRKT apache with the ats-34 blade for year and then lock snapped. Still have it in pieces in response for the back talk it gave me.
 
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