What Steel for a Short Sword?

ATS-34 would hold up well if heat treated carefully. But way not A-2, 5160, or CPM-3V?
 
I thought 3V would be outstanding, but doesn't it take very badly to rust? I have a Lightfoot knife [ only about 6" blade] in 3V and its performance is amazing.
Howard Clark apparently uses L6 for super tough users and "modified" 1084 for showier swords, among other metals.
Wally Hayes' 1084 has had great reviews, but then again that's another mastersmith forging and tempering etc. I have one on order, with some personal features.
JSP makes a waki in A2. Looks awesome. Haven't seen one up close.

Anything Jerry Hossom suggests is worth listening to. Anyone out there have the pleasure of owning a Hossom Waki? Fast as heck, I'd bet.
 
I just saw Larry's "Battle Bowie" on his site. With one of those you probably wouldn't need a wakizashi :)
 
Hi I've been playing with steel and short swords for a while and I like a couple . I like 1084 because it gives a nice temper line and I can harden the edge and back and keep the the middle soft. This makes for a very tough blade.
I found an all soft back too soft. L-6 is grteat but I didn't like the temper lines I got. 52100 is awesome but the higher carbon content produces a boring straight temper line
some times a little wave. I can't trust the stainless for breaking so for me it has to be medium or high carbon steel that I can differentially heat treat.
Cheers, Stay well. Wally Hayes :)
 
Thanks HJK. I can only relate my experiences with the steels I've tried. 3V is not really as rust prone as most tool steels. It contains 7.5% Chromium, and since the powder metallurgy keeps most of that from forming carbides, it does provide some protection. I now etch all my 3V blades to enhance its corrosion resistance, and have not had a significant problem with the etched blades. It's the toughest steel I've used thusfar.

A whole lot of this decision making rests with what kind of sword and what kind on combat if any it's intended to experience. Edge toughness is key; a broken edge is likely a broken sword, so edge geometry is important too.

I fully expect the stainless version of 3V (S30V) to perform very well in this role as well. It is expected to be tougher than A2, while being even more corrosion resistant than 440C. 4% Vanadium should also give it good wear qualities. Hopefully I'll be grinding some in a couple weeks. In the meantime I have a small chunk of Crucible's super tough CPM-1V to gnaw on. It's about twice as tough as 3V.
 
Mr. Hossom:

Will you be using the 1V on a regular basis from here on out? How much more expensive is it than the 3V? Will they be making the 1V in stainless?

I am eagerly awaiting the time that you start taking custom orders again in the future. Your blades are among the finest I have ever seen.

Thank you,
Adam Thiel
 
I thank all of ya'll for the input.I'm not trying to be hard headed, but I don't get it. I've made bowies with 13" blades that I can't hurt. Even that Combat Bowie I finished a wek or so ago. It's only 1 1/2" wide, but it's good on hard wood. I've been happy with D. Holder's heat-treating.

Color me dumb, But it seems to me ATS done the way I've been doing, with a good structureal design would hold up against almost anything.
I'm thinking a 16" blade 1 1/2" wide at the guard, thinning to 1" at the tip, 1/4" thick. Handle 8" with a steel butt to counter balance the blade.

Is tool steel that much better?
 
Crucible Steel probably just winced. CPM-1V is not available in knifemaker sizes. It is only formed into very thick sections, and I was lucky enough to find a piece that was cut off the end of one such chunk. I doubt I'll find another such piece, and I'm pretty certain that there'll not be a stainless version. Crucible is planning on S30V being their high performance stainless for some time.

Thanks for the nice remarks.
 
As far as uses go, I see it more as a sentry removal weapon. Maybe if the bullets ran out, a hand to hand against a bayneted rifle. I don't see sword fighting on a battle field of today.

Best chance is for cutting brush for concealment, or something.
 
Originally posted by Jerry Hossom
A whole lot of this decision making rests with what kind of sword and what kind of combat if any it's intended to experience.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's why I said that. With a heavy edge, ATS-34 should do the job, IMHO. Good luck with it.
 
Thanks Jerry. I value your thoughts.

I'd still like to hear back from everybody else. What do ya'll think? And would the price increase be worth the performance? I'm always trying to keep the price down too.
 
Yep, that's why I said that. With a heavy edge, ATS-34 should do the job, IMHO. Good luck with it.

ats would have to a rc 50 to be almost as springy and tufff as a tool steel.

i have seen sm swords of L6 beat on edge against a block of steelas hard as i could. w no damage

don,t tell these folks s.s. is tough enough
it ant

i use ats. it has its place i grind 10 to 20 bowie knives a mo. out of it BUT i can take a piece of L6 or wire rope and make a lot better sword.
m bell says hes got a wire rope sword to cut a 1/4 hanging wire rope and cut off a parking meter post try either w your ss
harley
www.lonesomepineknives.com
 
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