What's your favorite adhesive for handles and why ?

RDT

RDT

Joined
Dec 17, 1999
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Okay the post title says it all. I usually use Devcon 200 lbs adhesive. It's readily available at any hardware store and works alright. However, I can't help but feel there is something a lot better. The Devcon tends to clump up too much at the edges of the scales and onto the blade. Even though while attaching the scales I am wiping any excess glue off, it still leaks out afterwards and makes finishing the knife very long and annoying. What do you guys prefer ? Thanks.....RDT
 
Devcon 2 ton is a good epoxy.

For excess epoxy try coating anywhere you don't want epoxy with a little paste wax. When epoxy dries peel the excess off.
 
Devcon is good but I like JB Weld better. There isn't a perfect epoxy. It depends on what you are doing. For stick tangs where I want a thinner epoxy to fill all the voids, I use West System 3.
 
The best I have found is Brownells Acraglas, however I use the stuff from K&G, 30 minute slow cure. It is much easier to meter out the right amount out of the squeeze bottles and gives you plenty of time to work. I amlooking for more of a seal than strength as my handles are attached by other means so I dont rely on the epoxy.

George is right, the paste wax trick works great.
 
I have tried all of the above, and like Conap Epoxy from Sheffield Knifemakers supply the best. It mixes extremely easy. Just squeeze out equal lengths from two tubes, stir together, and its ready to use. It is not runny, so you don't have that problem. I have used other epoxies and had them take several days to harden probably because you were supost to mix 3oz of one jar to 2 oz of the other jar, and I didn't get it exactly right. Conap has always hardened exactly right. Conap is used to attach golf club heads to the handles. By the way, it's what Bob Loveless uses. Try it, I think you might like it. Tom Lewis
 
I use the K & G epoxy for all the gluing that I do. One of the reasons that I like it is that it is water soluable when it is not set up yet. It is also used for gluing golf clubs. It does take a little longer to set up than some and that also gives you a little time to clean it up around the edges before it sets. They also have a powdered dye to add color if you want.
When I get through using it, it will usually be on my hands and clean up is easy. Just soap and water will do the trick.
 
I've found that using Vaseline and a Q-Tip to "paint" the areas I don't want epoxy adhering to works rather well. It's made clean-up much easier. The dried epoxy just peels off.
BTW, I use Conap Easypoxy that I get from Sheffield's. Great stuff. I run out of that I'll use Devcon 2 Ton and right now I'm trying Superglue Inc.'s quick set epoxy that is available at Home Depot.
 
Hey Y'all,

So far the best I have found is JB weld, but I have been wanting to try out that acraglass. Being somewhat of a newbie I don't usually get my handles to an exact shape before I glue. In fact I usually just drill the hole in the material and glue it up and grind it to shape afterward. JB weld is the only epoxy I've found that stands up to the heat of some serious grinding without seperating. The only problem I have with it is that it always leaves a dark grey glue line between everything. All the five minute epoxies I've tried seemed to dry brittle and seperated with any application of heat. The extra time epoxies I've tried seemed to never harden or they would turn semi liquid and start oozing with any application of heat.

JB weld holds really good and can take some pretty serious heat without changing dimensions.

Chuck
 
I use JB weld for the bolsters. This takes the heat when grinding the bolsters to shape the gray blends nicely with the steels. I use Devcon or West System for the scales. There isn't that much heat generated when shaping the scales and there is no epoxy line. I used to dye the epoxy to match the liner but found it always leaked out around the pins and didn't look right.
 
i only shape & finish the forward handle contour before i epoxy( devcon 2 ton, k&g epoxy) all shapeing is done after the scales are glued and bolted. i bet if you start using new, brand name belts O/A starting 36 grit you will be removing material, instead of heating the handle up. :)
 
The only problem I have with it is that it always leaves a dark grey glue line between everything.
Click to expand...
Chuck, there's a little trick to getting rid of that line. First make sure everything fits before you put it together (flat). Leave it a little oversize so you can grind it flush and then before getting to the buffing, use a very soft wire wheel on the joint. You will be amazed at how fast the line goes away.:eek: Don't overdo the wheel or you wind up with pitting, just do one or two gentle passes.
 
I use Devcon 2ton. It has never caused me any problems, unless I stored it in the shop. I have had knives I made years ago come thru my shop for sharpening, and the handles were still solid.
 
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